Madrid

[carl browne]

Gentlemen:

I'm visiting Madrid in November. What shops should I visit?

Thanks,

Carl

[Simon A]

This store is interesting for a visit, even if you don't make a purchase. The capes are nicely made.

http://www.sesena.com/ing/present.htm

[Gruto]

I have always loved to visit the three great museums: the Prado, the Reina Sofía, and the Thyssen-Bornemisza. They have a vast collection of the very best, and they are also good places to study the history of dressing They are in a distance of few hundred meters from each other. Concerning shops, Madrid isn't overwhelming, though the shirtmaker Burgos on Cedaceros 2 is worth a visit. The high street shops lies around calle Serrano. There you also find the most famous tailor in Spain: Jaime Gallo.

[carl browne]

The Prado I knew about. I'll look into the others.
Restaurants?

Thanks!

C

[Simon A]

If you want to brag to your friends that you have eaten in the world's oldest restaurant, try Botin http://www.botin.es/web/?q=en .

Book well ahead. The service is good if you are well dressed Try the Lechazo...

[couch]

Botín is worth the trip, though a tourist destination (reread the last couple of chapters of The Sun Also Rises for a cameo). Have a look at the old roasting oven on your way to the table. I remember an excellent vino del país that was a young Ribera del Duero, fresh and amazing value. Perfect with the lamb, and probably the lechazo too. The vegetable sides were unexpectedly fresh and delicious, too, though the roast lamb was the centerpiece.

For traditional elegance, stop in at Llhardy, founded 1839 and famous for its sherried consommé.

If it's cool weather, you must have chocolate y churros at San Gines, near Sol:



Tapas bars and contemporary restaurants will be too numerous and changeable to mention, so check a good local guide. But two must-try bar-cafes are:

Cafe Gijón on Paseo Recoletos (becomes Paseo del Prado a couple of blocks down from the museum). Historic haunt of writers and artists in the early 20th century. If cool weather, stay inside:



In summer, sit at the tables in the median of the avenue under the umbrellas. Have a blanco y negro made from wonderful Spanish coffee and frozen leche merengada. This is best done very late at night:



and Museo Chicote on Gran Vía, which is an art deco masterpiece that has kept up with the times:



The Madrid Ritz maintains its luxe, and the public rooms and restaurants are elegant, and the food very good if not cutting edge. Perhaps best is the experience of twilight cocktails on the terrace bar:



Much more to say, but I'm out of time for now. Seseña is worth a stop for capes. There used to be a shop around the corner from it that sold hunting gear including gleaming boar spears. Nearby (this is in the Plaza Mayor neighborhood) is the great Ramirez guitar atelier:

[Simon A]

That's a terrific review Mr Couch. I can't wait to go back myself

One of the LL members in the past kindly posted a very well researched list of reputable tailors in Madrid some time ago, I can't find the original post but here is the list:

[carl browne]

Lots of great information! Thank you so much!

C

[oldog/oldtrix]

Just returned from Spain, and Madrid would have been worth the visit if there were nothing there but Picasso's Guernica and the gallery of studies for it in the Reina Sofía. Of course, there is so much more, much of it mentioned above. Not mentioned above, however, are the Carmina shoe stores where the excellent Goodyear welted shoes designed by Jose Albaladejo Pujadas can be seen and purchased. I don't usually post about specific brands, but I was exceptionally impressed with the workmanship of these shoes and, particularly, the pair of brown suede whole cut oxfords on a sleek last that fit me perfectly and that I look forward the wearing for many years. The price, with what seem to be lasted trees (at least for the last of my shoes), was very reasonable.

[Simon A]

For those who have the time, I would wholeheartedly recommend venturing into the countryside of Castille La Mancha and Castille y Leon on the train.

I spend some time each year in Valladolid (in Castile y Leon, the capital of Spain until 1561 and the resting place of Christopher Columbus) each year on business, and visit wineries in the Ribera del Duero region between jobs; the Castilian food is arguably better than Madrid at a fraction of the price, the wine is fantastic and inexpensive, and the scenery is beautiful in a desolate manner. The people are courteous and helpful to a fault. A trip to the wine museum at Penafiel is very worthwhile.

[alden]

Have dinner at Casa Lucio (http://www.casalucio.es/) Start at the bar with a few glasses of Manzanilla while eating olives, and a plate of superb jamon Then sit down and attack the excellent wine list and eat seafood (the Mero -grouper-is excellent.) Finish with arroz con leche You will be back the next night....very busy, reserve if possible, eat late.

Otherwise eat at any of the great Gallego restaurants selling fresh fish from Galicia (among the best in Europe) and force it down with a few bottles of Albarino wine.

Madrid also has some excellent shirtmakers and tailors..there is a list on the LL to be studied (somewhere, I know because I wrote it.)

Oldog/Oldtrix: Readers of the LL know Carmina well as the Mallorcan firm has made limited edition boots in cordovan for the members. You made an excellent choice.

Cheers

Michael Alden

[whyescalar]

One great Galician restaurant is Sanxenxo. Private dining rooms for conducting business. Or having great, private fun.

[culverwood]

...I spend some time each year in Valladolid (in Castile y Leon, the capital of Spain until 1561 and the resting place of Christopher Columbus) ....

I thought Columbus's tomb was in Sevilla cathedral.

[Simon A]

Columbus spent his later years in Valladolid; as the original seat of his Castilian patrons, and the capital city of the Kingdom of Spain at the time, it was a logical place to retire. He died and was interred there.

Oddly enough, his remains travelled the globe thereafter, this is quite an interesting "travelogue" http://www.christopher-columbus.eu/bones.htm

You are right that his remains have now been interred in Seville.