Ready-to-wear corduroy trousers
I'm based in London and now that the temperature is dropping I'd like to buy some ready-to-wear corduroy trousers for winter. I want them cut like stylish trousers, not jeans, but I don't want overly baggy farmer-style country cords. Does anyone have any suggestions? Perhaps Turnbull & Asser?
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whyescalar
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Cantabrigian
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I picked up a couple decent pairs from Lambourne on Sierra Trading Post.
I second the rec for Cordings. The cut is definitely not baggy, the quality is fantastic, and they look great.
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Chris Rimby
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The waistband treatment is certainly different on several of the Pakeman models (belt loops).
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DD MacDonald
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Some of the best cords that I have are from Roderick Charles.
If you're in London, you might also want to talk to David Saxby at his shop on the Fulham High Street (no. 62, near Putney Bridge tube). If he's not there he may be at one of his other shops--Old Hat (vintage / resale) at 66 Fulham High St., or Bertie Wooster (vintage / resale) at 284 Fulham Road.
David told me in June that he had taken over a part of the now-defunct Lambourne factory and engaged some of its staff to turn out traditional RTW clothing to augment his existing lines in waistcoats and vintage-silk cravats. I saw a number of early models of tweed hacking-style jackets, shooting field coats, and corduroy trousers. The cord cloth looked good, about the same density as Lambourne's, and some of the waist treatments were relatively uncommon for cords (I think I remember some side buckles on some). You might find something in his cuts to suit you. The field coats looked good value though not at the premium level of technical lining and such. The jackets felt a bit stiff but nice tweed and again good value. David seems to be trying to develop models with the right sort of feel--he mentioned using Tailor and Cutter patterns from the '20s and '30s--and his work includes some interesting details, such as continuing the face cloth around the back of the collar opening on waistcoats rather than taking the back (Bemberg-type) cloth all the way up.
He also mentioned that they are doing cotton Bedford cord trousers, and that indeed he has bought up what he believes to be all the remaining cotton Bedford cord cloth, now out of production. So if this is a trouser cloth that appeals to you, there's another reason to visit David.
I learned an interesting fact in my visits to his vintage shops: he pulls selected garments with especially rare or noteworthy construction, cloth, or period detailing from the "stream" and maintains a "museum" collection, used for design reference. One of his associates gave me a brief and unauthorized peek--dusty, but enough to whet the imagination.
Most of you probably know that David writes the sartorial agony column for "The Chap."
Forgive me if these notes are old news; I haven't had time to follow the other forums closely in the past few months.
David told me in June that he had taken over a part of the now-defunct Lambourne factory and engaged some of its staff to turn out traditional RTW clothing to augment his existing lines in waistcoats and vintage-silk cravats. I saw a number of early models of tweed hacking-style jackets, shooting field coats, and corduroy trousers. The cord cloth looked good, about the same density as Lambourne's, and some of the waist treatments were relatively uncommon for cords (I think I remember some side buckles on some). You might find something in his cuts to suit you. The field coats looked good value though not at the premium level of technical lining and such. The jackets felt a bit stiff but nice tweed and again good value. David seems to be trying to develop models with the right sort of feel--he mentioned using Tailor and Cutter patterns from the '20s and '30s--and his work includes some interesting details, such as continuing the face cloth around the back of the collar opening on waistcoats rather than taking the back (Bemberg-type) cloth all the way up.
He also mentioned that they are doing cotton Bedford cord trousers, and that indeed he has bought up what he believes to be all the remaining cotton Bedford cord cloth, now out of production. So if this is a trouser cloth that appeals to you, there's another reason to visit David.
I learned an interesting fact in my visits to his vintage shops: he pulls selected garments with especially rare or noteworthy construction, cloth, or period detailing from the "stream" and maintains a "museum" collection, used for design reference. One of his associates gave me a brief and unauthorized peek--dusty, but enough to whet the imagination.
Most of you probably know that David writes the sartorial agony column for "The Chap."
Forgive me if these notes are old news; I haven't had time to follow the other forums closely in the past few months.
I know this post is about ready to wear, but I want to have some cords and or moleskins made. I am finding difficulty in finding suppliers of corduroy in London. Recently I browsed in a great fabric shop near Charvet in Paris. Swithered over some cashmere cotton corduroy. Now kicking myself for not buying. Can't find anything similar in London. Anybody help?
Textile King in Soho seems to have changed hands and is a shadow of its former rather chaotic self.
Textile King in Soho seems to have changed hands and is a shadow of its former rather chaotic self.
As I recall, Turnbull & Asser do a distinctive line in corduroy trousers with the cord direction going horizontally. It's a specialised line of country but one that might appeal?
glenr
glenr
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Percy.Trimmer
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I would second the vote for Roderick Charles. They are more narrowly cut than T and A and are better priced. I buy several pairs a year during the sale.
On SR, Scabal, Kilgour and Gieves & Hawkes all stock RTW cords, or you could try Zegna on Bond Street.
On Piccadilly today (collecting some of Budd's glorious Birdseye socks for winter) I saw a gentleman who was wearing what were clearly bespoke cords - you could tell, not because of any garish ostentations but by the cut and obvious weight of the cloth. It really is worth it...
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Sir Royston
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I Have really gone off Cordings.. In fact ever since they started a ladies dept.. tut tut
i know the whole story that they are co-owned by Eric Clapton nowadays as the only way to survive but when they advertise their tweed as "designed by Eric Clapton"!! whatever next? the Madonna and Guy Ritchie collection?
Look around there are lots of tailors making Cords, Moleskins and tweed at a lot less than London prices..
i know the whole story that they are co-owned by Eric Clapton nowadays as the only way to survive but when they advertise their tweed as "designed by Eric Clapton"!! whatever next? the Madonna and Guy Ritchie collection?
Look around there are lots of tailors making Cords, Moleskins and tweed at a lot less than London prices..
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Edward Bainbridge
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Are the ones offered by Pakeman of the contemporary default low rise? Otherwise, are there any RTW trousers (corduroy, moleskin, other cloths that can take some mud and may be thrown in the washing machine) with a higher rise?
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