Cloth for a traditional blue blazer

[bry2000]

What is the preferred cloth for a traditional blue blazer? Is it a serge or hopsack? What are the pros and cons of using a serge or hopsack or any other cloth for a blazer?

I saw a very weighty navy 6-ply blue hopsack cloth this past weekend. This would probably make a hard wearing blazer.

Thanks.

[Collarmelton]

The durability of a hopsack blazer cannot be overstated, if the navy patch pocket blazer from the clowns at 346 Madison that was forced on me by my parents in 1977 is anything to go by. It still exists (although it is too small), despite four years of bad fraternity parties and other things.

I’m not certain there is a preferred cloth for a blue blazer; it depends on the season and where you are. I notice many Englishmen prefer blue serge, I’ve seen heavy blue flannel blazers. But hopsacking is hypertraditional in the United States, in its patch-pocket, brass-buttoned, single hooked vent dartless configuration, as promoted for decades by (forgive me, Bry) J. Press. I think that hopsacking done in some more stylish form would be quite smart, actually, as well as hardwearing. One thing I’ve thought about trying is white pearl or bone buttons on a navy blue blazer, as a change from the traditional brass buttons, although this might be a bit of a studied gesture. Does anyone have any thoughts?

[manton]

Serge is awfully heavy and warm. Off the top of my head, I can't even think of a merchant that regularly carries it, but other people know the cloth books better than I do. Hopsack is rough, but it gives the coat a nice, casual appearance and some surface interest.

I think that the traditional cloth depends on the season the blazer is intended for. For summer it would be fresco or some porous worsted. For winter, hopsack or flannel. For in between, doeskin.

[TVD]

I have two blazers, a 13oz Lumb's Golden Bale worsted for winter, and a Wain Shiell S100s sharkskin (from their Royal Windsor bunch - I am not sure whether they still do it - cannot recall the exact weight but it would be around 10oz) for summer. Both of them have been subject to atrocious use, and have lasted extremely well.

I have heard Barathea mentioned as a Blazer possibility.

I feel that any cloth with what I would describe as a "hard" surface, such as gabardine, serge, even the more durable varieties of worsted can look somewhat cheap on a blazer, especially when adorned with gilt buttons. I would even be tempted to go for some of the less durable but more luxurious superfine fabrics.

[rip]

One thing I’ve thought about trying is white pearl or bone buttons on a navy blue blazer, as a change from the traditional brass buttons, although this might be a bit of a studied gesture. Does anyone have any thoughts?

Recently, in a fit of whatever it was driving me at the moment, I replaced the brass buttons on one of my blazers with bone buttons. The look was, not to put too fine a point on it, garish! I then replaced those with silver-gray mother-of-pearl; those look exquisite. This particular blazer is, to bring it back on thread, of 110s tropical worsted. Since I prefer to play from time to time with textures as well as colors and patterns, I can't imagine not having both this and a hopsacking blazer (I actually have them in silk, linen and wool, and, just for travel, a wool-poly blend that can be machine- or hand-washed and drip-dried).

[dopey]

I have recently taken delivery of a DB blazer from Dege. At their recommendation, I had it made in a fairly sturdy serge. I believe it was from Smith Bros., but would have to check.

I wore it a bit in the early Spring before sending it back for adjustment and did not find it unusually warm-wearing for its weight. When it was returned to me, the weather had turned warmer and while it was suitable for early Spring, it is too heavy for the warmer months.

Obviously, I cannot comment on durability as I have not had it long enough, but that is the reason Dege made the recommendation and why, they said, serge is a traditional blazer cloth.

It is my hope that our LL fellowship will continue for at least ten years, at which time I will be ready to deliver an interim report on durability.




[SOME Edits for clarity and language]

[Will]

I ordered a Smith Brothers blue serge odd jacket just yesterday. It won't quite be a blazer because I'm going to have leather buttons.

[alden]

The "traditional" SR blazer cloth, as Dege indicated, is serge. The key words are traditional and SR.

Today people make Blazers of all kinds of cloth, so let your taste be your guide.

Serge and flannel for Winter. Hopsack, or fresco for Spring. Linen or silk for Summer.

A few Navy blue serge coats I know of have well over twenty-five years on the counter, and are still going strong. They weigh upwards of 15 ozs and are a pleasure when the weather is brisk. Pick a serge and a fresco and you'll be set for most climates and situations.

Cheers

[manton]

All the hopsacks I have seen feel too heavy for summer. But I get hot easily.

By the way, are we defining a traditional blazer as a coat with metal buttons? Because I would not put metal buttons on some of these cloths, for instance, linen.

[dopey]

All the hopsacks I have seen feel to heavy for summer. But I get hot easily.

By the way, are we defining a traditional blazer as a coat with metal buttons? Because I would not put metal buttons on some of these cloths, for instance, linen.

I do think traditional style metal buttons seem essential to a blazer and have a hard time seeing them on a linen coat. Of course, a navy linen coat is a perfectly fine thing even if it is not what I would call a blazer.

As a footnote, I once had a near-blazer with silverish metal buttons that were engraved with a very fine siped herringbone pattern (think of the soles of the old Sperry Topsiders). I retired the blazer but kept the buttons. I think those buttons would actually do fine duty on a heavy linen coat but I don’t think I would call the result a blazer.

When I got my new Dege blazer, I purchased a set of smoked mother of pearl buttons, which I intend to have put on my older DB blazer. That one is a lightweight worsted and will do nice duty as a summer near-blazer. I thought it too dark a blue for white MOP.

[alden]

I am not sure anyone suggested hopsack for summerwear and even this lover of heavyweight cloth would find that choice odd for August.

We do tend to use the word “Blazer” in its modern day sense when we, technically speaking, should say sportscoat. There are some who would say a traditional Blazer is a coat emanating from the British naval tradition (nor necessarily from stories of the HMS Blazer), and is a DB cut from serge cloth with gold metal buttons.

That little oddity aside, sportscoats can be worn with a variety of buttons. Have fun picking the ones that suit you the best.

When it comes to metallic buttons, you’ll only find them attached to one, Navy blue serge, DB in this mans closet. But they can be very smart on many styles of sportscoats. Windsor put them on all kinds of things, even suits. So…go figure

Cheers

[Mark Seitelman]

Bryan, to answer your question, a light serge cloth is more traditional in the USA, but hopsack comes-in second.

I think that the weight would dictate the season. Most RTW serge blazers are about 10 oz. which makes it highly suitable for most seasons. I have a blue serge suit at 19 oz. A heavy serge would be unwearable in a NYC summer.

[BirdofSydney]

What are our thoughts on wool/cotton blends for Summer? I've seen some cloths with a nice, crisp feel and a lovely sheen to them. They aren't what you'd call hard-wearing, and want frequent steaming, but I am interested nonetheless.

I own a navy wool/cotton suit that I am very fond of, though it suffers from the same drawbacks. It doesn't crumple as bad as linen, and is cooler still, I find.

Regards,

Eden

[Guest]

This is my off-white Hopsack sportcoat.





It's 10oz and unlined, and I found it comfortable in august; since hopsack is a basket weave, alas a plain weave 2x2, it's similar and open like a simple plain weave; well, it's true it depends on the quality.

As for the blazer: the navy blazer you receive when you are usually a teen, is in what we call "panno Melton", a heavy and resistant flannel I would say.

Many would say serge twill is the most classical, but I have seen blazers in flannel, hopsack, barathea and fresco. They all look right to me.

[alden]

Giona

That is a very handsome coat!

You do remind all of us that the construction of the garment is just as important as the choice of cloth. A 10 ounce hopsack made unlined would be an excellent choice for Summerwear. If you can wear it in your Southern climes in August, it must be cool enough for Paris, London or NYC as well.

For those of our visitors who would like to see what a properly sized and positioned arm hole looks like, please study these pictures carefully.

Michael