Why deeper pleats?

[Yale Cameron]

We see much discussion over getting trousers made with deeper pleats. Particularly dissatisfaction with the depth of forward pleats on savile row trousers. I am wondering what the reasoning is for this. What is the advantage of deeper pleats? Do people just like them for the look of deeper pleats or do they somehow enhance the fit of the toruser.

[couch]

To quote our esteemed host, "line, line, line." For me, at least, that's the first reason to insist on adequately deep forward pleats. Note in this famous image how the Duke's wedding trouser pleats fall straight into the front creases without any lateral pulling or creasing:



Tom Mahon's wedding trousers aren't bad in this respect either, though I've seen him pictured in others that were less successful:



For some reason those who like to cut slim trousers (some SR tailors, but we also saw this a lot in the '80s in RTW trousers with forward pleats, like some RL Polo label goods) often seem to see the pleats as merely a design detail, or an aid to give ease immediately below the waist, so they are made skimpily. This results in them pulling open excessively when sitting, making the fork uncomfortably tight and causing much more horizontal creasing radiating from the fork, so that the trousers look perpetually rumpled and the pleats lose their ability to maintain the line of the front crease--instead flattening and flaring out to the side when the wearer is standing. This problem is exacerbated with lightweight cloths.

Making a deep pleat that hangs well into the front crease inevitably means some fullness in the upper thigh. If a slimmer leg is desired, in my view a much better line results with a plain-front style, possibly one that uses a dart under the waistband in front of each hip bone to give a little ease through the fork and still keep the waist trim.

On my MTM trousers, when I first requested forward pleats without specifying a depth, I got main pleats that were 1" deep--that is, a ruler slid into the pleat could go in 1". Some tailors apparently (and confusingly) refer to this as a 2" pleat to account for both sides of the fold. I found this depth to be a little skimpy, and have since specified 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" for the main pleat depth, which has worked out much better. I should mention that all of these trousers have DAKS-top waistbands rather than being worn with braces. Braces help pleats hang well, so one might get by with slightly shallower pleats with braces if the waist is cut fuller to slip easily up and down rather than hug the waist.

So basically the question is whether the pleats are meant to function to allow the trousers to easily accommodate movement without strain, or whether they are just ornament (or an alternative to a "comfort" waistband). If the latter, my view is that they are likely to look and feel worse than no pleats at all.

[J.S. Groot]

Thank you for a very informative post, Couch.

What number of pleats (if any) is generally considered standard?

[Gruto]

Pleats were introduced on city trousers around 1910. They came from country and sports wear. Today we consider two pleats as the norm but, historically, you'll find plenty examples of one pleat trousers. Like turn-ups pleats are a mark of casualness, although today many associate them with formality.

[ay329]

Double pleats are my standard set up....especially reverse english pleats

I love the way they look on my full trousers and the roominess they provide

[Scot]

Double pleats are my standard set up....especially reverse english pleats

I love the way they look on my full trousers and the roominess they provide

Who says English pleats are reverse?

[ay329]

My tailor, trained in Greece, calls them reverse pleats

I have seen some tailors, I believe Edwin DeBoise, noted them as English pleats

Thus I call them English reverse pleats...for those who are unfamiliar with the term English pleats....correct me if I am inaccurate

[ay329]

My tailor, trained in Greece, calls them reverse pleats

I have seen some tailors, I believe Edwin DeBoise, noted them as English pleats

Thus I call them English reverse pleats...for those who are unfamiliar with the term English pleats....correct me if I am inaccurate

[couch]

I have always heard the terms "forward pleats" and "reverse pleats" used to indicate the direction toward which the pleats open. Both pictures I posted above are forward pleats (both on Englishmen) and reverse pleats are flat across the fly area and open toward the outside/rear.

Usage may vary in other parts of the world, but I've only heard the term "English pleats" used in connection with forward pleats. I tend to associate reverse pleats with Italian makers and Jos. A Bank.

As to the standard number, I'd always thought double pleats were traditional and standard. I was actually surprised on my first Poole suit (in the Agnelli 2-type windowpane flannel) that the default was a single pleat. I had to ask them to make it deeper, but once that was done they've worked out fine. The purpose of the secondary pleat, as I understand it, is to add some resilience to take strain off the main pleat, in service of avoiding the tightness and creasing at the fork when sitting or moving that I mentioned in my earlier post. I usually specify double pleats now, but I will note that, especially on flannel, it's a little easier to press a single-pleat trouser than a double-pleated one. It can be challenging to keep the secondary pleat's crease consistent over time.