Style for 1st Bespoke Overcoat

[lowndes]

I was hoping to get some input on what would be a great first overcoat (or really to confirm my decision). The primary purpose will be winter coat for NYC and I will be a mid 20's corporate attorney. The coat is going to be in Navy (not too dark though a really nice color of blue, JJ Minnis Melton 100% Wool). And I most likely will only be able to get one overcoat this winter but plan to supplement it next year with a bespoke camel hair polo coat. Hopefully, these will be the only two overcoats I need.

So onto my question.

I initially was thinking about a navy chesterfield with a velvet collar but came to the realization that might be too formal of an overcoat for everyday wear. I then found a photo of an overcoat that I loved. I have attached the photo and am thinking about getting one made exactly like it.

[DFR]

I then found a photo of an overcoat that I loved. I have attached the photo and am thinking about getting one made exactly like it.

You have answered your own question. No need for further input.

[lowndes]

I like your answer.

[Jordan Marc]

lowndes:

For your first coat, a navy Chesterfield is an excellent choice. You're right about the velvet collar being too formal for a man your age. Here's a tip from Bernard Weatherill that was passed along to me years ago. A Chesterfield is an elegant coat. The addition of a velvet collar comes years later when the cloth collar wears out.

Regarding your second choice of a camelhair polo coat: It might raise an eyebrow or two from senior members of your law firm. Too rakish. Consider the possibility of a camelhair Chesterfield for your second coat. Again, without a velvet collar.

Y'know, Chesterfields can be made as double-breasted or single-breasted coats, both equally handsome, so if the navy Chesterfield is double-breasted, its camelhair counterpart could easily be single-breasted. And should you become addicted to the Chesterfield style and require a third coat, consider a charcoal and medium dark grey herringbone pattern. Keep that in mind when you're made a partner in the firm.

JMB

[Costi]

Great choice, lowndes. Mind the details, so they won't spoil the elegance potential of such an overcoat: less drama in the lapels (width, height), a few centimeters extra length (in proportion, with respect to the frame of the man in the picture), perhaps a bit more room through the chest and waist. You might consider losing the ticket pocket for such an elegant city overcoat. I agree with a self cloth collar for the time being. But I'd say go for the camelhair Polo, too, and if anyone raises an eyebrow to it, change the firm!

[Scot]

I too have been contemplating exactly this question. The coat would need to be versatile - so it could be used for days in the city but also on non-business outings. I had thought of a dark grey herringbone cloth.

My thoughts have been as follows - a DB 6X3 with a storm collar and cuffs on the sleeves. Two pockets with flaps (not patch). Several issues remain unresolved in my mind though:

How to style the back - I like the Guards coat in this respect but does it fit with the features above?

Should there be a breast pocket?

Am I thinking of something that already has a name or is this just a collection of features that don't really go together?

[Jordan Marc]

Scot:

Yes, there should be a breast pocket.

JMB

[Costi]

Scot, here are some possible answers: http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... esterfield

I agree with Minh and Michael's views in the post linked above, a dark gray herringbone SB Chesterfield is unbeatable for versatility and elegance. No cuffs, no Guardscoat back, if you must have ONE versatile overcoat. With breast pocket, yes.

[Scot]

Costi, I was looking for the picture of your own very nice blue guards coat but couldn't find it using the search function. Could you direct me?

[Costi]

Here it is, Scot: http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... ard#p45860
But I notice that some photos are missing...

[Scot]

That's the one! I must say I like it very much. I wonder how it would look with a notch lapel that could be buttoned over.

[lowndes]

Thanks for the input. Definitely going to use this photo as my starting point and just work with my tailor to suit my needs.

Out of curiosity what is the official name of this style of overcoat? I hear people call this a Chesterfield but thought a Chesterfield had to be SB with velvet collar.

Look forward to posting photos when I get it finished.

[Costi]

The SB notch that buttons over looks OK on certain tweed jackets, but on a town overcoat... I don't know. I'd rather carry a muffler that I can wrap around my neck if needed.
The cut you mention (6x3, storm collar, cuffs) sounds like a citifed Ulster of a sort, with flaps instead of patch pockets. It would probably look better in a less sober cloth (texture and colour) - you can have a halfbelt in the back, too, if you like it. Here is what it might look like (just lower the button stance to make room for the top buttons and bring them in for a 6X3):


A Guardscoat, on the other hand, seems inadequate for informal occasions. If you want versatility, you need to go for simple things, in my opinion - hence the SB dark gray herringbone Chesterfield.

[Yale Cameron]

Costi, that guard's coat is one the coolest coats I have seen. Absolutely superb. Why did you decide not to do epaulets on it? I was under the assumption that epaulets normally go on a guard's coat traditionally.

[Costi]

Thanks, YC. Epaulettes may look right / be functional on the original military garment, but they are best skipped in the process of translating it into military-inspired town civilian dress. Similar to the full belt that is alluded to in the coat's half-belt. I took this even further by straightening the (otherwise traditional) slanted pockets and choice of cloth. I left some military flavour in the shoulders and back (belt, vent treatment). In fact, if you look at the front, there is nothing to distinguish it from any other non-military dark blue city overcoat.