A study in lapels

[ICM]

Peak lapels on single-breasted suits are, to me, the kind of detail that separates the best from the good, the so-so and the bad. In this respect, they are like working cuff buttons. That is, they aren't mass-produced (as far as I know). And while the late Mr. Okisaka's suits do tend to have overly wide lapels, the last picture Simon A posted, that of the 3B light grey tweed 3-piece, comes close to perfection the way I see it. It allows just the right amount of shirt, tie, and vest to show, and the fabric, well, I just love heavy fabrics. And I have to disagree with Costi on the Fellows picture of the navy suit; it is inspiring because, to my eyes at least, this is the classiest, most elegant, most classic, most emblematic suit; a navy 3B 3-piece with peak lapels; the ultimate town wear (hence the black shoes).

[Costi]

SB peak lapel coats can be and are frequently mass produced - in fact there was quite a fashion a couple of years ago (not completely out yet) of cotton summer jackets with this particular cut, just because IT IS particular and thus considered "chic" by the "houses". I believe it CAN be done nicely indeed, but I would never go as far as making it the nec plus ultra of masculine dress. As far as the dark blue one being the epitome of citywear, I would note that the illustration I posted is rather singular among the AA crowd and 3B SB peak is a rather "quirky" mix. I wonder why it is depicted in a tailor's shop? Perhaps a customer with particular tastes? He doesn't even seem very happy - in fact he is taking a side view as he is trying to find a flattering angle of that coat, while the tailor is swinging a back mirror in position probably saying "Why, Sir, the back looks perfect", his right hand behind his back and slight forward lean saying "That's what you asked for and you wouldn't let yourself talked out of it"
My comics dialogue apart, I think the light gray example posted by Simon has too straight and steep lapels that look glued on to the coat (though less than the ones preceding it), but I do like the light gray herringbone suit that I posted below it. Both in nice heavy tweeds!

[ICM]

I admit my ignorance concerning the RtW popularity of the SB peak lapel. I actually saw one such suit this week on a Salvatore Ferragamo storefront.

The text accompanying the navy suit illustration indicates that it was intented as a depiction of a more "everyman" type of suit than the dandified fare normally featured. Here it is:

We hear pretty frequently that these pages devote insufficient attention to the wants of the average man. Readers keep writing in telling us they wouldn’t care to be found dead in the too colorful outfits that we are prone to illustrate and describe. Stuck for an answer, we merely say that we wouldn’t exactly enjoy it ourselves. But here, praise be, is a plain blue suit, wherewith we hope to mollify the ire of the plain reader. The model is the three button single breasted with peak lapels, always a favorite in England and lately accorded increased acceptance over here. You will note that the lapel rolls to all three buttons fastened, as shown here, or, equally well, with only the center one buttoned. The fabric is a diagonal weave. The shirt is a blue batiste with white widespread laundered collar and a Grecian striped tie. The shoes are of black calf.