Blue Worsted Fabric - Suggestions Please

[J. Cogburn]

My first bespoken suit will likely be produced by Alan Flusser this spring. It will be a 10 oz (or so) double-breasted blue worsted suit. Before I spend hours poring over the fabric books, I was wondering if any of you could recommend a fabric that Hardy Amies called a "French Blue" - something that's lighter than what usually passes for navy blue and with a green rather than red undertone.

[alden]

H Lesser has a lovely selection of blues in the 9-10 ozs book. There is a French blue among them. (Note: There are two Lesser 9-10 books, you want the book without cashmere added.)

Michael

[J. Cogburn]

Thanks Michael. In your opinion, is French blue deployable in cold winter months? I am skeptical ... but Hardy Amies does not seem to be.

[alden]

Thanks Michael. In your opinion, is French blue deployable in cold winter months? I am skeptical ... but Hardy Amies does not seem to be.

The French blue is deployable on bright, sunny, winter days. Its the 10 ozs weight that is not deployable in winter, unless you live in the Bahamas.

Hardy Amies had great taste in women's clothes.

Cheers

Michael

[risker]

Same color different angle...

I was recently looking for a similar Blue in a heavier flannel - 13-15oz. There are indeed a lovely H Lessor lighter blue in the Golden Bale flannels but they are 9-10 oz. and I do not live in the Bahamas. Suggestions for a bright winter day in Paris?

[alden]

and I do not live in the Bahamas. Suggestions for a bright winter day in Paris?

I have so many suggestions for a bright, winter day in Paris. Its too humid in the Bahamas.

Risker

Minnis has a very nice blue in their heavy flannel book. Harrisons used to have a nice shade, a bit darker than French blue but still very nice, among their flannels as well.

Cheers

Michael

[risker]

Thanks - Difficult to tell blues in pictures. Is this the No.0304 called "Air Force Blue" in 13-14oz.?

There is also an interesting blue flannel in 14-15oz in a Spot Effect design.

[alden]

Risker

The RAF blue in the Minnis book is a very nice shade. The French blue is darker and more blue.

The best French blue I have seen is in Smith's Botany 13 ozs book....perfect shade.

Michael

[J. Cogburn]

Unfortunately, I was not precise in my original post. I am not interested in commissioning a French blue suit. I am interested in commissioning a a French navy blue suit. My interest was sparked by this entry by Hardy Amies in his book ABC of Men's Fashion:

In Britain, a blue suit has for too long conjured up a picture of a "Sunday-go-to-meeting" suit in blue serge, either too dark (that is to say, too much like the true navy blue that is almost black) or in what one calls a bad navy, one that is too purple. In point of fact a good navy is a very becoming color to almost everyone, male or female. It is not actually navy blue at all, but what we would call a French navy, a light navy with a green cast and never a red. Most people look good in it; it is very clean-looking with a white shirt, and very elegant looking and harmonious with a blue shirt. It is an ideal color by artificial light when it will go a deep black whereas black itself may go brown or greeny. A blue suit is therefore an excellent late-day garment when a dinner jacket is not required.

Any thoughts on Amies' observations about blue suits, "French navy" as he describes it, and ... best cloth?

[alden]

The best French blue I have seen is in Smith's Botany 13 ozs book....perfect shade.

Michael

[Aristide]

Thanks Michael. In your opinion, is French blue deployable in cold winter months? I am skeptical ... but Hardy Amies does not seem to be.

The French blue is deployable on bright, sunny, winter days. Its the 10 ozs weight that is not deployable in winter, unless you live in the Bahamas.

Hardy Amies had great taste in women's clothes.

Cheers

Michael

I just caught that...

[J. Cogburn]

Alas, the suit I have in mind will be for the shoulder seasons, so I fear that 13 oz is a bit too heavy for my purpose. I am gunning for 10 oz, +/- 1 oz.

[alden]

H Lesser has a lovely selection of blues in the 9-10 ozs book. There is a French blue among them. (Note: There are two Lesser 9-10 books, you want the book without cashmere added.)

[J. Cogburn]

Thank you Michael. I will look at the Lessers. But ... your original post mentioned French blue. I believe there is a difference between French blue and French navy (the latter being a bit darker and with, perhaps, a more pronounced greenish cast). Are you aware of any cloth in that Lesser book that would satisfy that modest distinction?

[alden]

What he means by that is a lighter navy blue and there are a couple for you to look at in the Lesser book. The Smith's Gilt Edge has one of the best French navy blues as well.