Poole or Kilgour bespoke thoughts/advice-US tour

[mafoofan]

It just occurred to me: Mariano and Luca Rubinacci themselves are not short, and yet their own tailors are obviously able to fit them successfully. Granted, neither is a giant, but I have to imagine they are still proof enough that a taller man can expect to get fitted at London House without much trouble. Also, Iammatt is fairly tall, and he is a well-known Rubinacci client. Here's Mariano himself:

[gherrmann]

I don't know if it is a function of his body position in this "action shot," but I have never found the line of the coat in this picture to be at all inspiring.

Here's Mariano himself:

[alden]

Matt

Mariano and Luca are tall?

Matt is 5'10, a tike. Boy, it must be nice to have the perfect height to wear clothes well!

Cheers

Michael

[mafoofan]

They're all giants to me .

[mafoofan]

I don't know if it is a function of his body position in this "action shot," but I have never found the line of the coat in this picture to be at all inspiring.

What's the "line of the coat"?

[gherrmann]

I don't know if it is a function of his body position in this "action shot," but I have never found the line of the coat in this picture to be at all inspiring.

What's the "line of the coat"?

the overall shape/silhouette.

[mafoofan]

the overall shape/silhouette.

Hmm. I think it looks pretty good, and pretty typical of their work. What don't you like?

[gherrmann]

the overall shape/silhouette.

Hmm. I think it looks pretty good, and pretty typical of their work. What don't you like?

it strikes me as somewhat shapeless and uninteresting. the line from the arm scye down to the bottom of the coat is basically a straight line without any waist definition. it looks almost like a typical american cut in that respect. I also tend to think that open quarters don't usually look so great unless they are balanced by a bit of waist and a slightly flared skirt (emphasis on the "slightly"). I can't really see the lapels very clearly on my monitor, but there's also something about them that bothers me (although I can't quite articulate it). all in all, it just doesn't really speak to me.

I've seen photos of other rubinacci garments on the interwebs that I found to be much more appealing than this one.

[alden]

The Solito jackets look great ot my eye. He looks great in his coat and the fabric on that grey chalk stripe DB is absolutely superb. Prhaps if I ever get to Naples, he may be a good choice for me based on his penchant for making a longer coat. His coat looks to have a lot of drape in the chest yet it remains very trim and clean looking. His lapels are super wide. WHy is it that Italians/neapolitans rarely seem to have flap pockets?

Yales,

They tuck them in.

Beware of photos on dummies and prefer to see pictures of bespoke clothes on the dummies who ordered them. Its nice the clothes are well made or look good, but they have to fit the body and style of the wearer.

One of the ideas behind the LL Derby was to have a variety of tailor's works exhibited by the men who bespoke them. Full length shots of the bepeakers tell the whole story. And the other objective was to show how many great tailors there are still out there. I have seen one of the entries from Rubinacci and it is handsome but we have and will see many other craftsman's work. Stay tuned..

Cheers

Michael

[angelo]

An other example, this time not on a dummy, of italian tailoring for a tall customer. The gentleman at the center of the picture is a friend of mine ,about 195 cm tall, whose tailor is located in the Lago di Garda Area (Verona).The jacket silhouette looks harmonius and very well balanced.

Angelo

[alden]

Angelo

Thanks for the picture. Its hard to tell much from it though because we can't see the man's legs. Do you have a full length shot? It looks like the coat is too long and the button point too high. This is a common error for tall clients (as previously discussed.)

Cheers

Michael

[angelo]

Alden wrote:
Its hard to tell much from it though because we can't see the man's legs. Do you have a full length shot? It looks like the coat is too long and the button point too high.

Michael, unfortunately at present no full length shots are available to me. As far as the high button point, this is a particular customer choice aimed to make the jacket appearance more "stylish". Indeed, all his DB jackets have an high button point.

Regards,
Angelo

[Concordia]

Kilgour does well with the transatlantic business, as their quality control is good for a large shop.

For a while, they were also pushing the unlined construction for jackets, probably so they could do contrasting piping on the back seam. I don't know if that is still policy, but they will likely do it well.

Sadly, they've jettisoned their Chinese MTM option, and their London bespoke prices are amazing.