Swelled Edge

[carl browne]

Would you gentlemen describe a swelled edge, when it is appropriate or necessary, its purpose, etc.?

I'm considering a suit in very heavy tan cavalry twill, and my tailor suggested swelled edges on the coat and lapped seams on the trousers. I can't really picture the effect in my mind.

A photo or diagram would be very helpful.

Thanks,

Carl

[jefferyd]

Whereas the very edge of a garment is typically pick stitched to keep the edge crisp and flat, a garment whose edges are said to be swelled have been pick stitched 1/4" (or so) from the edge. This can give the impression of a bit of bulk (or swell) along the edge where the seam allowances have been enclosed by the stitching. Generally seen only on sportier clothing. I will try to come up with a photo.

[Jordan Marc]

Carl:

A swelled edge resembles a quarter-inch welt with the hint of a convex curve at the outer edge of the lapels. A lap seam on the trousers is a quarter-inch of fabric laid over another layer of the same fabric
on the outer seams, both of which are stitched together rather than being turned under, butted together and stitched on the inside. Swelled edges and lap seams complement each other and are often used on
tweed and cheviot suits intended to be worn in the country, whereas pick-stitched lapels and butted-seam trousers are typical of city suits.

JMB

[alden]

Copy of IMGP2630.JPG

Carl

These lapels have a 1/4 stitch or "swelled edge." I have these on tweed, and casual suits.

Cheers

Michael

[carl browne]

Thanks, all--that makes perfect sense.

How do you feel about this effect on a heavy (20 oz) tan cavalry twill suit with slanted pockets? Good idea? Will the effect be fairly subtle, as in Michael's coat, or very obvious? Tweed is more nappy than a hard-worsted twill so it just adds a little interest. What I have in mind might be a bit too much.

I'm not worried that it will look too casual or sporty. I'll wear it for business, but not if there's an important meeting, and in my little beach-town long trousers are somewhat of an accomplishment. I do worry that it might look a bit--off. I've never done this before, and want to make certain I don't make a mistake.

Thank you again,

C

[alden]

Carl

Sounds like what you have in mind will wind up looking something like this:

campusho1.jpg

I would like the look on a cavalry twill suit. Just make sure the color of thread used blends perfectly in color so it remains understated.

Cheers

Michael

[carl browne]

Michael, that's super helpful! Thanks.

I'll try it.