So:
Of those making a blazer from the navy Mistral, who's doing patch pockets and who has conventional welts/flaps?
My own thought is that patches are a bit less practical for traveling, but perhaps not enough to require a more suit-like appearance.
Mistral nvy blazer/odd jacket
I don't have the Mistral (though I like it), but it's a cloth that says "patch" to me. As I never keep anything heavy or bulky in my coat's outside pockets, there would be no practical considerations involved.
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For a navy blazer, Mistral or any other good-quality basketweave wool hopsacking will work well. If you prefer a six-button double-breasted model, choose straight flap hip pockets with/without a matching
flap ticket out and high-gorge peak lapels. If you prefer a one- or two-button single-breasted model,
choose patch hip pockets and high-gore notch lapels. Whichever style you choose, tell your tailor you
want a barchetta, or little boat-shaped, breast pocket with pick-stitched welt. More pick-stitching on
the edges of the lapels and the pocket flaps makes more sense than lapels with a swelled edge. Picking on edge dresses up the blazer. Deep double side vents work well on a double-breasted model, while a deep
center vent looks good on a single-breasted model as long as it's cut properly, which is to say it doesn't flop open like the backdoor on a hospital gown. For buttons, try Benson & Clegg in London or Tender Buttons in Manhattan. Think golden or brassy.
What's a blazer without trousers? There are flannels, twills, linens and tweeds in any number of shades
and weights. The beauty of a blazer is that you can pair it with a wide range of colors and cloths except
for jeans, which destroys the elegant nonchalance of the coat.
JMB
flap ticket out and high-gorge peak lapels. If you prefer a one- or two-button single-breasted model,
choose patch hip pockets and high-gore notch lapels. Whichever style you choose, tell your tailor you
want a barchetta, or little boat-shaped, breast pocket with pick-stitched welt. More pick-stitching on
the edges of the lapels and the pocket flaps makes more sense than lapels with a swelled edge. Picking on edge dresses up the blazer. Deep double side vents work well on a double-breasted model, while a deep
center vent looks good on a single-breasted model as long as it's cut properly, which is to say it doesn't flop open like the backdoor on a hospital gown. For buttons, try Benson & Clegg in London or Tender Buttons in Manhattan. Think golden or brassy.
What's a blazer without trousers? There are flannels, twills, linens and tweeds in any number of shades
and weights. The beauty of a blazer is that you can pair it with a wide range of colors and cloths except
for jeans, which destroys the elegant nonchalance of the coat.
JMB
Do you plan on wearing the coat in the evening when you travel? If so, then go for the flaps. If not, then go for patch.Of those making a blazer from the navy Mistral, who's doing patch pockets and who has conventional welts/flaps?
Michael Alden
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