Vol. I No. V (Sept 05') Summer / Resort Part II AA / Esky

[Etutee]

hello gents

I will try to repost the pictures in next week or so. I need to get the images back to scanner which I can only do next week or so. That is why I always recommend that members save these posts as soon as they appear so for future references they can be saved. I should have saved on my own by sadly I never did. remember, that these posts were done during a time of my ongoing illness so I was not in the mood always to save all of my work and other tweaking.

anyways, i will try to get them back up on line.

regarding conde nast situation and AA/esky illustration situation Manton certainly went into this more detail. I remember 3-4 years ago when we were talking about this project and there were problems with rights and conde nast lawyers. I was frustrated by the lack of clear communication and I am sure Manton was too from publisher Assoulini (between them and conde nast) lawyers. Apparently, they (publishers) could not figure out who exactly owned the rights to these illustrations anymore or at least Conde Nast lawyers were not all interested in the prospect of such a project due to its limited appeal. If it makes any common sense then Esquire should own the rights to illustrations that at least appeared in Esky. However, that was likely not the case. It seemed clear that Esquire didn't even owned the rights to the images that appeared in Esky. Moreover remember that while esky had alot of illustrations but AA had even more and they were often exclusive to either publication.

The last published source that accessed these images officially was Alan Fusser's book "Dressing the Man" and all of those illustrations came from Conde Nast. My thinking was, if he could access them in early 2000s then why couldn't we do it for our project? That book was recent enough that people who dealt in that copyright papers were still around and would certainly know the nature of legal matters with these illustrations.

Now why this prospect was never investigated by the project publishers (Assoulini) that I do not know. Manton was more involved than I was and would have more info but it certainly made me and him (I believe) frustrated regarding this seemingly simple roadblock.

I have been fortunate enough to have a lot of the images published in esquire and AA. Some are good some are not so good (in digital quality). My slight gripe with internet posters both here and elsewhere was that.... even though many members own copies for AA, nobody ever scanned any images in large quantities for the fear of damaging their books. While I completely butchered my books and papers for scanning, other people could not even scan one single issue of AA for the forum readers. I understand that it is very difficult to scan them but that difficulty is for me also. Its not like i had a magical scanner that eliminated the size problem. heck, they could take hi-quality SLR pictures of AA pages and if done flat and carefully can produce excellent images for references purposes. Not everything needs to be scanned.

Because I assure you that alot of people own AA issues, not large collections but 1 or 2. Between us if we put our efforts together we could have scanned the entire collection digitally without all that who-ha of publishers and lawyers and what not.

The only people who were kind enough to sure were some Esky owners and indeed a few people were generous enough to post full images from their esky collections. Other than that credit due where it is deserved.... Sator was immensly generous with his efforts. Some of his books and sources are ALOT rarer than AA issues yet he scanned very high quality images from those books for us especially Tailor and Cutter publications.

Anyways, that project was stalled years ago and Manton would know more about it. If anyone were to re-start this project the best place to look at would be Alan Flusser's book "Dressing the man". His book had quite a few of AA article scans and illustrations and the rights came from Conde Nast.

[Costi]

Dear Etutee,

You have done so much already that it would be a crime to let you further butcher your copies of AA that have already gone through scanning. I have re-read your article and I could match the descriptions to to the pictures I saved on my computer. If you will please send my a private message with your e-mail address, I could e-mail them to you, so you may simply repost them. This way, if you have the time and possibility to do some scanning work, it will be for something new

Costi

[Etutee]

Dear Etutee,

You have done so much already that it would be a crime to let you further butcher your copies of AA that have already gone through scanning.

Costi Esky is not a problem at all. It is AA that is a pain the back. Fortunately all of these were Esky illustrations so I just need to figure out which ones were they exactly and I will put all of them online next week when I have some time.

[Costi]

Great, I'm glad it can be done without much damage to your printed copies. Needless to mention once again the appreciation for your efforts, past and present. Hopefully future, too! Inspiration is a most precious essence and your posts contain an addictive dose of it. I think that, if it were possible to put into evidence all the consequences of your posts - for tailors, customers and dreamers around the world - we would be pretty amazed.

[inkwretch]

Etutee,

Thanks for making the effort to repost the pics. I understand what an enourmous amount of work went into these posts. I am new to the forum so I wasn't around when they were first posted. They are truly magnificent and tremendously educational. I just wish all the source material was available for everybody to enjoy. Though I must say that your commentary and insights make them much more valuable than the originals alone.

[DonB]

(...) all of these were Esky illustrations so I just need to figure out which ones were they exactly (...)

I am quite taken by the amount of work and insight that can be found in your writings. Therefore I am glad to provide you with the following link:

http://bars.rug.nl/download/ef0730b762030bea

It is a .pdf-version of the article 'Vol. I No. V (Sept 05') Summer / Resort Part II AA / Esky' as discussed in this thread. Due to the nature of the internet and image hosting services I thought it wise to download the articles with the illustrations to my computer. If anything, it should save you some time figuring out which illustrations are missing.

Best regards,
Don

[inkwretch]

Don,

Wonderful. Thanks a million. I might be hitting you up for some of the other entries, if you have them. As I read through all of them I am finding other images missing. I really appreciate your helping the newbie out. As I said before, Etutee's work has been extremely educational. I find I go back and read the entries several times to absorb all of the information that is there.

Etutee, I wonder if you could ever be convinced to create some new posts? It has been a few years since the last one went up. In the preambles to your entries I have noticed that you question whether your posts are valued by readers, whether they are read and used. Let me assure you that I find them extremely valuable and they represent a body of work that cannot be found anywhere else. I have looked. I bought Men In Style and Flusser's books, as well as others in my quest for knowledge. And as I said before, the original copy in Men in Style is good, but your commentary provides so much more context and perspective (also, there's just not that much TO Men in Style -- pretty lightweight compared to what you compiled). I fully appreciate how much work these have been and wouldn't blame you for not wanting to create any more, but I just wanted to let you know that there is definitely an audience for your work.

Cheers,

Jon

[DonB]

It only takes me a couple of minutes to make these available to the members of the LL. Besides, I'll gladly contribute to this community in any way I can, as I learned quite a lot from browsing this forum. Therefore I have made the following articles available for download to all:



Download .zip file

Due to restrictions of my Alma Maters File Server, this file will be available for download until April 12, 2010.

Kind regards,
Don

[J.S. Groot]

Most impressive dear sir! Thank you very much.

[J.S. Groot]

Also, having read a few of your AA/Esq articles Etutee, I want to tip my hat to you for providing such a wealth of information. Your analysis of the various outfits is extremely enlightening for a young style novice such as myself, for example your note on pairing (more precisely not pairing) solid white shirts with solid suits in the Vol. 1 part II article is something I have never thought of previously, but that I likely will never forget now.

Thank you!

ps. Come to think of it, I should probably send you a bottle of wine from my future tailor, because the inspirational aspect of your articles has caused me to devise a handful of suits that I must have made

[andreyb]

DonB,

The efforts you put into creating this collection are very much appreciated.

Yours,
Andrey

[inkwretch]

Don,

Thank you, thank you, thank you!

I have downloaded and saved the files on my hard drive. I have already found some of the images I was looking for -- seersucker in a rare checked pattern. Wish I could find that cloth today.

Cheers,

Jon

[storeynicholas]

I downloaded this file but found that it seems to be encoded and I cannot read anything inside. Has anyone else had this problem?
NJS

[couch]

NJS, it is a compressed Zip archive (necessary to keep the file size manageable for upload/download). If on a Mac running OS X, you should just be able to double-click on the file on your desktop and the built-in archive utility will uncompress it. If you are on a Windows machine, I don't know if there's a similar built-in utility, but if not you could download one of several free open-source utilities from Source Forge that will do the trick:

http://sourceforge.net/search/?type_of_ ... ords=unzip

Once "unzipped," the contents of the archive will be a folder with a number of PDF files inside.

Good luck!

[storeynicholas]

Thanks, couch, that's very helpoful! I'll try this.
best,
NJS