Eden in Paris - first commission!

[Paul W]

Dear LL members,

A long-time reader, I have finally decided to commission my first bespoke garment (age 28, based in London). Much of the advice here on LL for individuals new to bespoke suggests starting simple, a mid-weight navy SB for example, before experimenting with more unusual cloths and styles. However, as I was lucky enough to obtain the final 3m of the LL Cloth Club Eden in Paris cloth, a 13oz flannel, I intend to throw the rule-book out of the window and use this cloth for my first venture into the bespoke world!

For those that need a refresher, here is a sample of the cloth:

1.jpg

A search on LL will show some wonderful examples of how other members have used the cloth (in this regard, I doff my hat to Costi in particular).

I would be grateful for your thoughts on my current intentions, which are as follows:

- I'm a fan of the Huntsman silhouette, example here, and propose to use it by way of model. I think this rather suits my physique - c. 6ft, 85kg, quite athletic build (chest c. 42").

2.jpg

- I may or may not include the ticket pocket, but I don't think it would be out of place with the cloth.

- To the extent possible, I'd quite like to occasionally wear the jacket as a sports jacket so I had wondered whether I should make the jacket a touch shorter than usual. The tailor I spoke to suggested this would be possible but would not wish to shorten too much as though the current style may well be for a slightly shorter jacket, this will date the jacket in years to come. As a rule, he suggested (if I remember correctly) that the jacket should come down to the bottom of the fly. Any thoughts on the feasibility of this?

- The tailor I spoke to said they generally use one of two "shoulder pad" constructions - one quite hard, and one slightly softer. I would be inclined (given my quite broad build) to go for the softer option.

- It may displease some, but I intend to go for flat, non-pleated trousers with no turn-up with what I consider to be a normal waist (i.e. not braces). No back pockets.

- Otherwise, I understand that I should make sure I have relatively narrow arm-holes (but not overly tight sleeves) and proper buttons (suggestions welcome).

Is there anything major that I'm missing here?

I intend to post photos of the various fittings for interest/further comment.

I would be most grateful for your thoughts and comments on the above. For those whose tailors have worked with the cloth, it would be excellent to pass on any comments they may have made about the cloth to my tailor.

Best,
Paul

[Costi]

Dear Paul,

Welcome aboard! You are embarking with a first class ticket on your voyage to a bespoke wardrobe - the Eden in Paris is a great cloth. I have worn that suit today (thanks for the chapeau) and it was the only reason that made me regret the weather is (finally) getting warmer...
The Huntsman style seems to fit your physique as you describe it and, contrary to my own preference for pleated trousers, I think it works better with flat fronted trousers. Just keep in mind that non-pleated trousers needn't be too narrow, they can still be cut full and if you have an athletic build perhaps that's the best way to go (plus they can be made to taper elegantly towards the ankle, which is not possible with narrow trousers).
The length of your coats shouldn't be either a matter of fashion or the result of a formula. It should be the length that gives your body good proportions. If you have a long torso and shorter legs, applying the rule that the coat should end at the bottom of the trousers' fly won't yield very flattering results. Take a good look in the mirror on your first and second fitting, ask the tailor's opinion, too, if you need to and make a decision what YOUR right length of coat is. If anything, suit coats should be cut a little shorter (not longer) than odd jackets, because the continuity of the fabric between trousers and coat tends to make the coat appear longer.
The ticket pocket would not be out of place with the cloth, I agree, but neither would it add any styling value to the coat. Again, if you have a long torso you may try it, but otherwise I think you won't miss it. Straight cut pockets would also be a better idea than the hacking type on the coat pictured (which is a tweed, so a bit of a different animal already).
The cloth tailors excellently and I am sure it will be a pleasure for your tailor to work with it. Fingers crossed for your first bespoke suit!