Must have cloths?

[Rowly]

Hi,
Having enjoyed Michael's video regarding Smith's Whole Fleece ..... I am interested to know if there are certain cloths which are considered essential to building a well rounded wardrobe. The design classics of cloth, if you will. Whole fleece seems to be one of them ... perhaps a dark grey pick and pick..?...any others? Do you feel that the well dressed gentleman should have at least one x, y, z..cloth? What are they? What have been your experiences? What would you recommend?.......... thanks, Rowly.

[dopey]

Rowly:
Your suggestion puts a very good focus on precisely the wrong way of thinking about things, though one that resonates with me more than it should. By that, I mean you are approaching the issue of dress as a collector, thinking about which are the right cloths to have. The better approach is to think about your life and circumstances, identify what you do as you go about your days and how you would like to appear, and then choose the best cloths for that purpose. For example, in cataloging your life, no matter what you do, you will probably need one or more formal suits in navy or charcoal for weddings, funerals and the like. You should choose the best cloths for that depending on where you live. Similarly, think about your week - do you need or want to wear business suits? How formal do you want them to be? Wall Street/City of London or more relaxed? What is the climate? That will tell you the weights and styles. What about weekends? Do rough tweeds suit your activities and life? Or maybe citified sportcoats? Certainly, there are cloths that, because of their utility and suitability in many categories end up being on "must have lists" but that is a sign of their utility not their necessity (gray flannel and navy worsted both come to mind). Deciding on the cloths you need should be impossible without a very careful analysis of how you live and wish to dress.

Still, your question appealed to me. I will admit to being something of a "collector" myself, and so I like to have certain examples of classic cloth. But that is really a reflection of approaching clothes as a hobby and, I am sad to say, should not be confused with style or good dress. The best dressed people have the right clothes for how they live, not the best examples of different cloth genres.

[DD MacDonald]

The best dressed people have the right clothes for how they live, not the best examples of different cloth genres.

Well said Dopey.

DDM

[alden]

I suppose the best (or worst) of both worlds, and an expensive one, occurs when the best examples of different cloth genres coincide perfectly with how one lives.

Santa Maria!



Michael

[Rowly]

Very good advice. Although, I feel that how you dress on a certain day in a particular circumstance is a form of self expression which can be satisfying when you feel you have got it right. I suppose your wardrobe as a whole is also an expression of your personal taste and an indication of your savoir faire. I personally am finding it difficult to avoid the temptation of wanting to know the best cloths for a particular situation...perhaps this is a man thing...wanting the correct tool for the job...and wanting to enjoy a synergy between aesthetics and function. That is why I enjoy the threads that make such suggestions as midnight blue for dinner suits ..to look blacker under indoor lighting etc. A brandy glass not only has a pleasing shape, but allows your hand's heat to release the aromas...etc....I am learning so much here..but maybe it's an ego problem I have....but I do want to know for my own pleasure without being pedantic, such things as how to wear a hat...when is a fedora more or less appropriate than a trilby?....etc...How would you dress for say the opera?..a smart casual garden party?.. a wedding?..etc....I accept that you can't turn an art into a science..but even artists have rules of thumb re perspectives etc. In any case , a true reflection of my personality is to look well dressed..but also to look like I know about the subject matter of good dress..if that makes any sense...and again, that is why I enjoyed the video so much. I hope Michael continues to educate those of us who want this kind of information...and thanks again for the posts..Rowly

[lowndes]

Rowly,

I am in the same boat as you in trying to determine my personal style. I can recommend a couple of books I recently read that are excellent. "Dressing the Man" by Alan Flusser and "The Suit" by Manton. They really help to understand the basics and fundamentals for you to expand upon.

Next, my view is that developing your personal style is something you have to do by trial and error and takes a while. I have fun reading through the style and clothing forums and if I see something I like (for my style) then I make a note of that. I've got a list of about 4 suits and 2 sport coats I am going to get made up soon. I'm sure I'll like some of my ideas and won't like others but that is the fun of the process and I'm looking forward to it. Over time I'll keep refining the process and hopefully have the pieces in my wardrobe that will allow me to express my mood and style through my clothes.

Just my 2 cents (and I am certainly a beginner myself).

[uppercase]

Alden posted a list of 'must have' cloths somewhere: I think that they were i)flannel, ii) linen....
I can't remember the rest but there is an Alden post somewhere addressing this subject.

[Rowly]

Lowndes, ...I think there are a lot of us with this mindset. I already have dressing the man...but will try to get the manton book. Like you...I find it fun..researching...learning from mistakes...and continually getting closer to where I feel self expressed more consistently....this inner satisfaction , to me, is the essence of style...and I feel that Alden is sympathetic to that attitude. Having asked several S.R. tailors to recommend a design classic dressy cloth ....every single one suggested a dark grey pick and pick....the darkest is very dressy but not really suitable for outdoor or business wear..whereas the 2nd darkest is dressy but also versatile...and the two colours of thread give a play on light and look more interesting than a flat grey....every single house told me the same thing almost verbatim...so this , to them was a design classic of cloth......they also suggested across the board that a plain navy or grey will look good if you dress it up with the pocket square etc......anyway for me....I like to know about cloths that have always been sought after over time by those who appreciate their inherent refinement and discreet appeal...my ambition is, as Alden suggests, to coincide my aesthetic choice of cloth with what suits my body shape and complexion, my lifestyle and purpose and my appreciation for the classics in terms of cloth. I not only want to look good..but I also want to develop an appreciation of good cloth.
My lifestyle has already been expressed with a J G Hardy worsted alsport suit, which hit the spot.. ( I found out about this cloth from here ) I am keen to get a H.Lesser 13 oz suit
I like that bygone look of masculine but refined elegance. I will definitely get a whole fleece
...and hope to eventually partake in the LL Cloth club.
If Michael would post a link to his "must have " cloths....that would really help...not that you would select your cloth purely as a collector..but that you might find something that is classic..while also ticking all your boxes. By the way, Michael..in the video you made in Anderson and S....... you were both wearing suits that had the classic refined appeal and solid gravitas that I really like and aspire to....so keep that information coming..and keep us inspired...thanks, Rowley

[Costi]

Uppercase, I must quote your "A Quick Trip to London" on this subject:

Ofcourse, if you are receptive, you start to melt and SR’s magic begins to work as soon as you open the creaky door and see the fire going, the leather sofa in front beckoning, the dark wood paneling, the samples, the books of cloth, all of which you need.

I couldn't help laughing out loud as I read it!

[lowndes]

Rowly,

I would be interested to hear where you research leads you. I am doing the same search now and haven't read though about a grey in pick and pick. I might give that a look. Right now the cloths that are must haves for me based on age and profession (25 years old and about to be a corporate attorney) are:

Suits:
Plain Navy Worsted 10oz (SB 2 button)
Bluer Navy Worsted 12oz. (SB 2 button)
Charcoal Worsted 10oz. (SB 2 button)
Mid Grey 12oz. (possibly pick and pick now (SB 2 button)
Light to Mid Grey 12oz woolen flannel (for SB 3 roll 2 with Patch Pockets)
Mid to Dark Grey 12oz woolen flannel (for 6x2 DB)

Sport Coats:
Navy Saxxon Wool (for Navy Blazer)
Mid Brown with Overcheck Shetland Tweed
Light Grey in a POW Check 13oz

I already own the plain navy, the charcoal, and the navy blazer and that is why they are on my must lists. The others I plan to get made this summer. The first four allow me to dress to my position well and the last 2 and my sport coats allow me to express my personal style a little more. That should get me through the Fall/Winter and then I can reconsider the must have cloths for Spring/Summer. Hope to do this several years and keep expanding.

[old henry]

Rowly , ps , I find a vest to be very practical. Get the blue that you like . If you are a lawyer , your suits are your uniform. They are your tool. Your suits should be subtle and strong . No "one thing" should draw the eye. But - You -should feel humbly superior.