Recommendations re: Three-Piece Suit Configuration

[gherrmann]

Gentlemen:

I am making my first foray into the world of suits with waistcoats and would very much appreciate any suggestions the members might have concerning the best configuration for the coat of a three-piece suit, which, in this instance, will be single-breasted with a notch lapel. (Incidentally, the waistcoat will be made sans lapels.) Would it be best to cut the coat as a two-button, a "true" three-button, or a three-button that rolls to 2 or 2.5? I would particularly appreciate any photographic samples anyone might be able to provide, as I have been struggling to find any examples online that reflect a good balance between the lines of the coat and the waistcoat.

Many thanks in advance for any input anyone is willing to share.

Regards,

[couch]

I have seen elegant and convincing examples of all three configurations you mention, and I'm sure reviewing Etutee's AA/Esky posts will show examples of them all. Vests can be cut, within limits, slightly higher or lower to accommodate different jacket configurations. My own feeling is that the jacket configuration might be best selected based on your figuration and preferred silhouette; so that if you are flattered by the longer and wider V of a two- or one-button jacket, get that and have the vest cut to show two or two and a half buttons. If you have a long waist, or like a higher lapel roll to add lift, or simply prefer a more reserved silhouette, get a three-button jacket and the vest will show 1 to 2 buttons. My own preference is for a 3 rolling to 2.5, whether with waistcoat or without. This makes a nice compromise, offering a lapel V that reinforces the waist-to-shoulder V shape, while not putting the projection of the lapel roll so low that it emphasizes the stomach rather than than the chest, in profile.

Here's Sir Winston in a Poole three-button (stroller):



Hayward gave Connery a two-button in the famous Goldfinger gray glen-check suit (vest has lapels but minimal ones):



As was McQueen's in The Thomas Crown Affair:

[Costi]

May I add to couch's good advice a few more images for inspiration:




Depending on how high you wear your trousers, make sure the waistcoat covers the waistband at all times - but too long waitcoats don't look particularly well, so choose the cut of your trousers wisely.

Here is a nice waistcoat cut by Frank Shattuck: http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... 54&start=0

A detail I like on my waistcoats is this slit in the side seam (reinforced with a tack bar) that allows the waistcoat to lie flat when sitting:


Personally I prefer a 3 roll to 2 or max. 2.5 coat so that the waistcoat gets a chance to show a little without having to button too high.