Correct Length for Bespoke Knitwear

[pagean]

Gentlemen:

I'd be very grateful for any advice that may be offered on the above topic. Planning on having a couple of pieces made up and not terribly sure what I should be looking for in terms of length.

Many thanks

Pagean

[couch]

Not advice but a lament that almost all RTW knitted jumpers, sleeveless pullovers, and cardigans (sleeved and sleeveless) are now made too long in the body (too wide, as well, but that's another topic). If one wears trousers at about the natural waist or even slightly below, most knitwear either comes halfway to the crotch or must be bloused so much that for several inches there are three layers of cloth and the waistband is completely hidden. This is bad enough when wearing a pullover alone, but when one wants to wear a sleeveless jumper under a jacket with any waist suppression, the result is completely unacceptable.

This is about as long as I'd want to go:



If you haven't done so you might consult this thread, especially noting Etutee's comments. Michael did arrange for an MTM offering of sleeveless Shetlands, as you'll see. The result was quite good (apart from slightly too-high armholes on mine); I don't know if another run might be possible or whether the makers will do one-offs for members to the same basic pattern--perhaps Michael could advise. I would be tempted by lambswool examples along similar lines, or good (heathered colors) Fair Isles. I have one butter yellow, dense lambswool Pringle pullover from the early 1980s that was still made for fit people who wore pants at their waists. I'd love to replace it.

What maker are you planning to use?

[Jordan Marc]

Pagean:

If it's bespoke knitwear you seek, visit some knitshops and talk to the managers. Chances are there may well be women seated at tables nearby clattering away with their needles and making handsome sweaters
from skeins of beautiful woollens and cashmeres the likes of which you have never seen. Find a knitter whose work appeals to you, sit yourself down and have a chat. I would sooner have a gorgeous sweater made by an artisan at home than some commercial factory-made schmata pieced together in another hemisphere.

JMB

[pagean]

Thanks for the advice. Being Scottish born and bred I do have a weakness for Johnsons of Elgin, but of course they don't do bespoke and the sizes that fit me around the chest are just too long. Definitely can't be worn when you wear trousers at or above the navel as I like to do.

[Costi]

It depends a bit about the kind of pullover you want made (to wear under a coat or not, loose or tight, more or less rustic):












I prefer them shorter, as couch does - particularly if you wear high waist trousers.

[carl browne]

I'm in complete agreement on length for pullovers, but for a very long time I've wanted a cardigan that's relatively close fitting, long enough to cover the seat, has no lapels, hangs straight down over the hips, and has no ribbing at the bottom. I've seen lots of old photos of them, usually on the golf course. Those I see on the market nowadays are all too short.

The problem with pullovers is that they are all an awkward length. It seems to me they should be long enough to cover the waistband of trousers with a proper rise but go no further. Mine all hit the midpoint between my seat and my natural waist. The ribbing at the bottoms causes them to ride up slightly, putting extra cloth around the abdomen, exactly where I DON'T want it. Not flattering.

C

[pagean]

Oh well, at least I'm not the only one having problems. Thanks very much for the images Costi-a diverse collection.

[shredder]

A few suggestions for London:

Visit Berk in Burlington Arcade if you haven't already. They probably have one of the largest selections on any one site, so you just might something suitable off the peg. Very nice people too. http://www.berkcashmere.co.uk/home.php

Ring people listed here and enquire if they deal directly with consumers for bespoke orders: http://www.scottishcashmereclub.com/#/Members.

Some on SR and Jermyn St offer a 'bespoke' knitwear service, but I have no idea whether they are really bespoke or just MTO. You might want to ring Huntsman, Norton, Turnbull & Asser et al to find out what the offer actually is.

[JDelage]

Not advice but a lament that almost all RTW knitted jumpers, sleeveless pullovers, and cardigans (sleeved and sleeveless) are now made too long in the body (too wide, as well, but that's another topic).

I just received a v-neck lambswool sweater from Johnstons, and they are not as long in the body as most other rtw, fyi. I'm very happy with it (although the v could have been a slightly bit longer).

[SMCK]

In recent years I have been wearing V neck Brora cashmere slipovers, which I find perfect.
Brora.co.uk Perhaps they might send me a free one for this bit of free advertising!

[Breakaway]

In 1964 I saw Terence Stamp on Broadway in "Alfie". In one act he wore a sweater that was very long. The sweater had no waist suppression; it just hung loosely over his hips. He looked great! I suggest that there is no "correct length." It's just what looks good on you and suits your personality. Alfie, as you may remember, was a working class lady-killer.

[alden]

In 1964 I saw Terence Stamp on Broadway in "Alfie". In one act he wore a sweater that was very long. The sweater had no waist suppression; it just hung loosely over his hips. He looked great! I suggest that there is no "correct length." It's just what looks good on you and suits your personality. Alfie, as you may remember, was a working class lady-killer.

Nice post Breakaway. Stamp was something very special on stage.

Cheers

Michael

[signorlaine]

Has anyone heard of Hommard knitwear? I found their website quite by accident and it seems that they offer a made-to-measure service on their knitwear. The knitwear is made from two-ply cashmere and is available in 20 colors. The company seems to be located in the Netherlands but I found no information on the garments' country of origin.

For me the normal sized knitwear tend not to fit and this kind of service would probably prove most worthy.

http://www.hommard.com/products-custom- ... t!95!!!!GB