Creating a classic bespoke suit

[DFR]

Over the years the style of suit I have commissioned has varied from what might be described as a ‘classic’ as offered by my late Father’s tailor at my initiation into bespke aged 17 to a ‘modern’ classic bespoke offering.

I would like to move back to a more elegant era capturing the style of my initiation into bespoke. Whilst the suits I want to commission will need to remain ‘appropriate’ to modern business wear in the UK provinces there are many features that sit easily in both. Whilst much is ‘personal’ about any bespoke there is a discipline which is so easy to over look and which a willing tailor might necessarily compromise to meet the wishes of his client. So what does one do to capture elegance? May I offer various thoughts on the aspects of a classic bespoke for discussion and the benefit of your wisdom over the next few weeks?

One key element is the trousers. Whilst wearing these with braces is essential I want be interested to have advice on whether a ‘fish tail’ back is preferable and how high above the navel the rise should come. Should this simply be described as the highest possible?

Pockets also trouble me – side seam or slant at the side, should there be one, two or no hip pockets, if so what method of fastening is classic and most elegant, finally fob pocket at the front? I do NOT like the bulges at the thigh associated with use of the side pockets and so I tend to keep a handkerchief in my left hip pocket. However that in itself means a compromise.

Thoughts please gentlemen on these?

DFR

[ccox]

DFR;
What a fine thing to conptemplate. I'm sure you are already possessed of a most elegant wardrobe. I'll weigh in with my thoughts on the trousers. Rise, is a personal preference in my book. But, I think that trousers that sit at the natural waist look best. The fish-tail back works very well with braces and (I think) helps the levers sit in the hollow beneath your ribcage. Since I'm sure that you have your coat on at most times the "look" is something that should appeal to your aesthetic (and perhaps a significant other's.)

I've often wondered if the fob opcket can be adapted for use with a very small cell phone. The phone can function like a modern day pocket watch, it should have a place to rest nicely conceled.

Pockets -- I suppose it depends on how much kit you're carrying. I like a hip pocket for a handkerchief. I keep a pocket knife in the small change pocket inside my front right trouser pocket and cash in my left. On seam looks neater to my eye, but I am not what you would call "blade thin."

I look to forward to hearing what the learned memebership has to say. There are many sartorial scholars among the ranks.

CCox

[DFR]

ccox

Many thanks this is most helpful. I shall certainly take this very much to mind if perhaps erring to the higher end of the natural waist by a 1/4". Certainly the coat is not to be removed in 'public' except in exceptional circumstances.

This is also an elegant solution to the mobile phone issue. Currently I have an additional pocket inside the jacket for this but it is far from satisfactory and that will bring me to an area where I want to reduce pockets. There is certainly no reason why the fob should not be used. In a well cut pair of trousers the pleats should allow sufficient latitude. Again a key point to discus with the selected tailor.


I would agree with you that the items to be accried need to be minmised - I am glad you are an adhgerent of the use of the hip pocket for a handkerchief - it would be interesting to know how many more of us adopt this. Do you have it with a flap or button/hole.

The coat i have in mind is a three button single breated with the roll just below the top button with two staright side flap side pockets (both with inner ticket pockets) and the out breast for a pocket square. Side vents or plain comes to mind - what thoguhts do you have for this?

One final thing is the inside. My thgoughts are to have a good matching satin mining - I hope you would agree? I do plan t restrict the inner pockets to right breast for a pocket book wlallet and in ticket on the left. This discourages anything which ruins to line of the coat - controversial in some quarters but a deterrent which is worth having I feel.

I very much value you input and indeed would welcome it to the rest of the 'design'.

Hopefully too many other scholars will offer the benefit of their counsel perhaps even to create a something of a London Lounge standard for consideration.