Bespoke Disasters...which can be fixed

[ay329]

Since I am without sin, I shall throw the first stone

I liked this old pic of the LLTW09. It wasn't a DB jacket, but had some overlap. My tailor said we can try 2 inches...since 4 inches makes it into a DB jacket.


The first pic is how it originally came out. It was only at the final fitting that I even noticed that there were no quarters and the front of the jacket was cut more like a coat. My tailor, Nick the Greek mentioned due to the overlap, it would look best this way...so I went home with it...but didn't like it. After summoning up some courage, I took it back with instructions to remove the 2 inches of overlap, which necessitated taking in the sides, moving the buttons over and re-cutting to create more open quarters.



The second pic is after my tailor adjusted the jacket. I am glad that I tried this new angled quarter look (got it out of my system), but will likely stick with the more traditional rounded open quarter designs that he's made for me in the past.



Experimenting with different styles and cloths is better helping me develop my own style. It has its cost as I was disappointed at how the original jacket looked, but my tailor is minutes away from my work and worked with me on making adjustments to my satisfaction. Kind regards to some fellow members who made some solid criticisms and commented on how best to improve the jacket's look

[ay329]

Part 2

It just so happened that my next disaster wasn't even my fault...and it happened again using LLTW09



Although I asked for a single breasted vest with no lapel, Nick opted to surprise me with the above pictured vest.
The double breasted vest can be gorgeous dependent on a number of factors, the tailors skill, the weight of the cloth, and the shape of the client. A perfect storm mixed to create this disaster

First of all it came out as a double breasted vest. I am already well fed as is and felt a DB vest, coupled with the weight (21oz.) and thickness of this cloth would make me look more corpulent. I need bespoke tailoring to hide my bad spots...not make them look worse!

The next mistake was having so many faux buttons...7 on this one. I prefer high buttoned vests given my shape and my tailors inability to make a low button vest fit me well, but this was just way too many faux buttons.

I never liked the look of Notch lapeled double breasted jackets. Peak lapels look so much better.
Let this above pic be a WARNING to all who wonder how a DB Notch lapel high button vest might look like.
I'm glad I have it in my wardrobe (especially on colder days), but never again...not even for a DB jacket

As a side note, I love these full trousers with English reverse pleats. I had extra cloth and made a second pair with regular pleasts

The second pic was the second vest that I wanted: single breasted, high button, no lapels.
The fit is excellent and I like how the V neck opening of the vest partially covers the tips of my shirt collar.

The lesson learned, always buy extra cloth


If you are wondering, I prefer deep vest pockets to place my wallet, keys and a hidden firearm when needed. Thus the pockets are higher up then those worn by others

[yachtie]

That's very "retro".

Didn't you have the blue triple check made the same way?

FWIW, I think you make a good choice having the SB vest made.

[ay329]

My triple overcheck was made as a DB vest, but with a shawl collared lapel and I believe ONLY 6 buttons. But the color of the buttons blend in with the busy nature of the triple overcheck. I made 2 suits earlier this year with DB vests. I decided to experiment and have decided for now I'm done...my Navy POW Brisa was also done with a DB vest and peak lapels. Am still debating having it redone as a SB vest...but its in the closet awaiting warmer weather...besides, I've got way too many projects to preoccupy my tailor right now

I have a few meters left of the Triple Overcheck cloth and am contemplating a SB vest too as the DB vest is just not as flattering to my physique...but I love the feel of it compared to a SB design.

In theory, I could desire a very slim fitting (straight jacket shirt) and a very slim cut Roman style Italian suit or some Italian "designed" abomination (made in Lord only knows where) with tight pants, tiny lapels...for that modern look...but it would be too uncomfortable for me and would likely look horrible on my physique.

The main reason I do bespoke is comfort and I like full and slightly loose fitting clothes. I am slowly tightening the fit of my pants and vest and seeing how this can improve my exterior look while maintaining a good comfort level

[Costi]

Dear ay, for your future projects take some inspiration from this post: http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... =36&t=9141
All you need is a clean line for your coat, the right length (not too much) and less abruptly open quarters. I think a cutaway waistcoat bottom works better with your phisique than a straight bottom. Keep the trousers full and high waisted. And keep things simple and linear, so people's attention will focus on your expressive face and eyes, rather than on the unusual cut of your clothes.

[ay329]

Costi, thanks for the heads up

I'm done with "experimentation"...sometimes you need to try a few different things to see how they come out...and then we usually go back to the fundamental basics...some styles are just immortal and don't need to be changed

[Jordan Marc]

Aye329:

That's a lot of suit for a man your size. The cut and recuts of the three pieces have the effect of closing you in, ie, you're too well-wrapped. For your next commission, consider the possibility of a more open
cut such as a single-breasted lounge suit with high-gorge lapels rolled to the first of two buttons and straight jetted lower pockets, high-rise trousers with deep double forward-firing pleats and brace buttons as well as self-fabric side adjusters with buckles. Thick cloth braces can be uncomfortable in warmer weather and you don't want to resort to a belt, hence the side adjusters. That will open up the front of your torso in a generous V shape, which acts as a framework for your accessories. Look at fabrics that have a subtle lustre. That doesn't necessarily mean plain cloth in grey or navy, though there are some beautiful worsted pick & picks that are the epitome of elegance and some gorgeous chalk and pinhead stripes. The mistake that many men make with stripes is to choose a fabric that doesn't have enough separation between the vertical lines. The bigger the man, the more space he needs. Whatever cloth you choose, buy enough yardage for an extra pair of trousers. Choose shirts with higher and wider spread collars to complement wider ties (4 inches at the front blade) tied with nothing bigger than a half-windsor knot. Keep your hosiery simple and keyed to the ground color of your suit. And tuck your toes into well-polished lace-ups, not slip-ons. Nothing looks sillier than an elegantly dressed man wearing lightweight casual shoes.

JMB

[ay329]

JordanMarc, can you show me a picture of a high gorge lapel rolling to the first of 2 buttons?

All of my Lounge suits are 3 piece vested. Thus I have little need to button my jackets...I'm even contemplating trying a Huntsman style one button jacket look in the future...possibly via Richard Anderson when he visits here within a month

Deep double forward firing pleats? What is this...please post pic
Traditionally all of my trousers have been double pleated and high rise trousers. Its only as of late that I like the English reverse double pleats.

Straight jetted pockets...does this mean no flaps? If not, can you post me a pic?

[Jordan Marc]

ay329:

High-gorge lapels come in two flavors, notched or peaked. They're called high-gorge because they're set much higher than usual and come close to climbing over the shoulder seams. The edges of the lapels are usually finished with fine pick stitching by hand to keep the edges flat and smooth, and it continues all the way down the front edges of both sides of the coat. For photos of high-gorge lapels, take a look at the sites for Cesare Attolini, Henry Poole, Huntsman, and Richard Anderson. Since Anderson is coming to town, by all means make an appointment.

Regarding deep double forward-firing pleats, you're wearing deep double forward-firing pleated trousers in your photos. The pleats open at the leading edges, which is veddy English, rather than opening at the trailing edges, which is typically American. The 'deep' in forward-firing pleats means they have deeper folds, which is more comfortable when you're seated because they stretch more than their stingy counterparts.

A jetted straight lower pocket on a coat is similar to a bosom pocket. It can also be a two-in-one pocket, a straight jet and/or a flap pocket. A jetted pocket is rather formal in its simplicity, which is why you often see it on dinner jackets. On a striped suit, a straight jet/flap pocket is a test of a tailor's artistry because the welt and the flap should ideally continue the pattern matching of the striped cloth. The same goes for a POW check. Straight jet/flap pockets are sometimes left unopened for purely aesthetic reasons. Why stuff things in your lower pockets when you have three or four bosom pockets inside your coat?

JMB

[Costi]

Look at how nicely the cut of the waistcoat and the line of the jacket work on Gianfranco Ferre's frame:

His clothes give him shape and proportion without trying to masque his size (he's even wearing white here!). That is a 3B roll to 2 coat.

[ay329]

Costi, thanks for the pic but the white jacket/vest combo is just too bright on my monitor to make out anything...its just a blur

More pics are welcome

At first it was not easy making this thread as I am holding myself out to ridicule...and it reveals that perhaps I do not use as a prestigious or capable tailor as some members. But this forum is providing me some guidance on how to better my style and improve the look and feel of my suits to better match my body style. Yes, I've made some mistakes...hopefully, won't make anymore this year and I'm honing my skills and welcome other members comments

[Costi]

I tried to make the picture darker and increase the contrast for you - I hope I haven't made things worse, I am no digital imaging wiz.


You needn't worry about ridicule, consider yourself among friends Custom dressing has its childhood diseases and the most usual way to becoming immune is to go through them. The earlier the better, of course.
Your tailor needn't be famous, just ask his advice and let him do his job as he knows best with a simple, linear 3 piece suit, nothing fancy - that should be your starting point and, from there, you can start tweaking.

[Manself]

ay329 well done for being brave enough to unveil a slight misfire - I'm sure we've all got a few in the cupboard. As long as you can deal with the discomfort this is a really useful thread for all of us.

BTW what do members do with their bespoke disasters? I'm yet to give any to the charity shop, but I've got a couple of things that I don't and won't wear.

[Mark Seitelman]

* * *

BTW what do members do with their bespoke disasters? I'm yet to give any to the charity shop, but I've got a couple of things that I don't and won't wear.

I give them to a charity thrift store, Housing Works. It is deemed a charitable contribution for tax purposes. You have to be reasonable, and you (not the store) declare the reasonable market value. Generally, the market value is 10-30% of the retail cost.

There are a number of charitable thrift shops spread around New York.

In the past I have consigned some clothes to Gentlemens Resale. At a resale or consigment shop you get 1/2 of the sale price if and when the suit sells. However, the general market price of a bespoke suit is no greater than that of better level suit, i.e., $200-300.

There is also e-Bay, but I think that selling custom tailored clothes would be a hassle. Also, the market price would be below $200.

[mafoofan]

I agree with those that have suggested a more open jacket--in fact, I believe I made a suggestion to you on Styleforum. Do you have a picture of you in a well-fitting, but orthodox, suit or jacket? If you don't already have one, maybe it would pay to go with something plain and normal before experimenting. Some things that seem like interestingly unique details at first blush wind up looking rather bizarre when realized.