Surgeon's Cuffs

[Phil]

Cuffs with functioning buttons are, of course, a hallmark of a custom suit. They're one of those touches that say, "This didn't come off the rack."

There are, however, differing opinions about how to wear them. Some say they should all be done up so that only the wearer knows the quality of his suit (saving the details for those in the know as it were). The other school of thought is that you should leave one button open so that people can see the details in your clothes.

I, personally, subscribe to both schools of thought and will button them up or leave one open largely as a matter of whim. Some days you feel like telling the world. Other days you don't.

I'd like to know what other people's personal policies are in this matter, and stress I don't think there is a "right" answer.

So, thoughts?

[Metcalfe]

Phil,

I value bespoke because of its understatement--because the label is tucked away inside a jacket pocket. So attracting attention to working button holes for the sake of attracting attention would defeat its stealth value.

In my opinion, there are limited circumstances where it would be acceptable for a man to roll back his jacket sleeves: (1) washing one's hands without removing the jacket (e.g., there's no place to hang a jacket in a restaurant's restroom); (2) writing with a fountain pen at one's own desk. But it should always be a private convenience.

Fruity Metcalfe

[Mark Seitelman]

I personally prefer to keep them buttoned. I feel that leaving the bottom one open is a bit forced and showy, therefore, it is against the Beau Brummell tradition.

In "People Will Talk" Cary Grant has the middle button unbuttoned on a three button cuff. Now that's sprezzatura!

[dopey]

I personally prefer to keep them buttoned. I feel that leaving the bottom one open is a bit forced and showy, therefore, it is against the Beau Brummell tradition.

In "People Will Talk" Cary Grant has the middle button unbuttoned on a three button cuff. Now that's sprezzatura!

I too agree that the buttons should be left closed.
I will note that I have on occasion found myself fiddling with opening and closing the buttons if I am bored on the subway or at the theatre or somewhere similarly anonymous. I have sometimes forgotten to re-button them. Perhaps similar activity explains Mr. Grant’s apparent sprezzatura.

[exigent]

This is largely a matter of personal taste--these hard and fast rules concerning buttons open or closed are tiresome in the extreme. I know tasteful gents who leave a cuff button open, and others equally stylish who never mess with the things, because they believe it is striving to "show-off in this manner." Wearing bespoke clothes is a rare pleasure. Do what you like.

[andrei67]

Wearing bespoke clothes is a rare pleasure. Do what you like.

I totally subscribe to your view!

[manton]

I always leave mine closed, and always have. To my eye, there is something showy and gauche about leaving sleeve buttons undone. Idle buttons that are meant to remain unused -- like the 6th button on a vest -- look best when the garment is cut so that the button cannot be fastened, in my opinion.

I do have one coat, not made for me, on which the sleeves had to be lengthened. Because of the taper, the ends are a little bit narrow. I leave the last button undone on that coat for comfort. It makes me feel slightly guilty.

[Leonard Logsdail]

It truly is, of course, a matter of taste. However, I believe most men who leave a cuff button unbuttoned do so in an effort to show their suits are custom and fell a need to prove it. In other words, if your suit is truly cut and made well there is no reason in the world to unbutton your cuff in order to prove it. the suit should speak for itself.

Leonard

[Phil]

I should add that I only "get whimsical" about once every six months. But I was wondering what other people thought on the matter. I generally opt for stealth as well. Thanks for the opinions.

[dan328]

It truly is, of course, a matter of taste. However, I believe most men who leave a cuff button unbuttoned do so in an effort to show their suits are custom and fell a need to prove it. In other words, if your suit is truly cut and made well there is no reason in the world to unbutton your cuff in order to prove it. the suit should speak for itself.

I would agree. Besides, there are few people who would be unable to recognize a bespoke suit by its cut but would recognize working sleeve buttons as a mark of a custom suit.

dan

[exigent]

Good points all. Interesting to note that the English fellows value understatement, though it is not surprising, if a person knows something of the culture in that beautiful country. Dan's comment is most appropriate, however, since we live in a world of steadily declining standards combined with freely available information, a kind of odd contradiction in terms. I clapped eyes on Men's Health magazine at the book store yesterday (the cover blared something about Style Icons, which caught my eye). Turns out these folks believe that a guy by the name of Patrick Dempsey is a style icon. I had never heard of the actor before, but then it is likely that my own pop-culture deficiencies are to blame for this blissful ignorance. Dan is right that most of the persons one runs across these days wouldn't know bespoke from well-fitted RTW. So if a fellow wants to mess around with his sleeves buttons, well, that's all right with me. But I do subscribe to the solid theory that one is on occasion judged harshly by one's peers for this sort of mild faux pas. Important to analyze your environment correctly....

[exigent]

Wearing bespoke clothes is a rare pleasure. Do what you like.

I totally subscribe to your view!

Finally, a kind acknowledgement--thank you, sir!

[Will]

Personally, I'm too busy trying to keep my pocket square standing properly to be fiddling with my sleeve buttons. I can't even imagine wearing belted trousers and having to deal with adjusting the waist constantly.

[manton]

I can't even imagine wearing belted trousers and having to deal with adjusting the waist constantly.

If they're cut right, and you have a bespoke belt, you won't have to!

[Will]

We need a tongue in cheek symbol.