Waistcoat to go under DB jacket

[Manself]

I'm on the brink of ordering a suit in a heavy vintage grey flannel. I want the jacket to be DB but the cloth is so heavy that I will need to take it off when I'm in the office, so I'm thinking of ordering a waistcoat to go underneath it. I haven't had a DB 3-piece suit before, and I'm unsure what form the waistcoat should take. Ought it to mirror the jacket?

Please advise!

[dopey]

Singled breasted waistcoat. I like the look of a lapelled waistcoat under a DB suitcoat, especially with a fabric like flannel, but it can get bulky. If the cloth you are using is very heavy, you might do without the lapels.

[Bishop of Briggs]

Singled breasted waistcoat. I like the look of a lapelled waistcoat under a DB suitcoat, especially with a fabric like flannel, but it can get bulky. If the cloth you are using is very heavy, you might do without the lapels.

Yes but no lapels!

[storeynicholas]

My own preference is a SB waistcoat, without lapels, under a DB coat but I have seen lapelled DB waistcoats under DB coats and also under SB coats with DB lapels. There is little as smart (devalued word but I use it anyway) as a three piece DB suit.
NJS

[Jordan Marc]

Manself:

There is no fast rule for the style of the waistcoat to complement a double-breasted suit, but the key words to keep in mind are balance and comfort. Since the commission you have in mind entails a heavyweight vintage flannel, a single-breasted waistcoat without lapels is a better balance for a double-breasted jacket. If said jacket has six buttons, the waistcoat should not be visible under the jacket unless it's unbuttoned.

On the other hand, if the suit is single-breasted I would still suggest a single-breasted waistcoat. It doesn't matter if the lapels have a high-gorge peak or a high-gorge notch. Ask your tailor to make the waistcoat with peak or notch lapels rolled to the first button. The waistcoat is designed to complement or echo the style of the lapels of the jacket. If this is your preferred choice, the waistcoat will be visible whether the jacket is buttoned or not.

Double-breasted waistcoats, while handsome under morning suits, are boilermakers under heavyweight flannel lounge suits, ie, bulky and uncomfortable.

Finally, since the cloth you have in mind is a vintage flannel, you would do well to consider having an extra pair of matching trousers made, yardage permitting. Your suit will last longer.

JMB

[Costi]

I would vote for a SB waistcoat sans lapels, for aesthetical and comfort reasons.
However, were I in your shoes (or your suit), I am not sure I would have a waistcoat made to a DB gray flannel suit. It would look nicer, I think, worn with V-neck pullovers if you like the look or need the extra warmth. Or, I might have it as a SB suit with a DB waistcoat - which is not necessarily formal (morningwear), it was often pictured worn with lounge suits, but it is less usual these days.

Since you intend to wear the suit to the office, such a cut would lend a "town" flavour to the flannel.

[yachtie]

Most of my DB suits have vests(waistcoats). I like "grown on" (rather then sewn on) lapels. I get the throat of the vest made rather high so that the top vest button or two shows over the jacket . For lighter weight cloths, I'm more likely to skip the lapel and show more vest.
For example:


I've seen (not owned) one suit that was a DB jacket with a DB vest- interesting- but that's 4 layers of cloth,which seems a little much, so my vests are SB. May do it someday- just for grins.

Here you go:

[Concordia]

With flannel?

Sleeveless cashmere single-ply.