Dressing Gowns

[Bishop of Briggs]

Personally, I would buy RTW silk gowns from N&L or T&A.

Too expensive I would bet. I hate to pay those guys. I feel as if I am participating in a conspiracy to cheat the Yanks.

That is a fair comment but the weakness of the pound has attracted a lot of Americans and Europeans to London over the last few weeks.

[uppercase]

I have made two Yukata now in Viyella cloth and they are perfect for winter.
Michael

I don't know....I think that I would be chilled in just a yukata. I only have a cat to keep me warm; not even a dog! Quality of life has been suffering as of late....

Personally, I would buy RTW silk gowns from N&L or T&A.

Too expensive I would bet. I hate to pay those guys. I feel as if I am participating in a conspiracy to cheat the Yanks.

That is a fair comment but the weakness of the pound has attracted a lot of Americans and Europeans to London over the last few weeks.

The economy is picking up; last year this time, London was having fire sales, with nary a shopper in sight.

But a store like Turnbull, though I have occasionally purchased small items from them over the years, well, I just feel, rightly or wrongly, that the staff is a bit too cynical selling to the Yanks and Euro tourists and that the product itself it not representative, though quality is good, of the best of British taste. And it is also hard for me to find more than only a few items there to my own taste...a bit too bright and shiny.

Correct me if I am wrong on that point.

[Bishop of Briggs]

The staff at T&A are often patronising. I have only bought ties, mainly in the sales, there as the shirts are too blousy for me. From now on, Michael Drake will get my business as his ties are far superior.

[dopey]

Has anyone had any experience with the variation of the classic dressing gown which Eelking (in his books and the German Herrenjournal) called a "Benny Gown"? It is basically a jacket length dressing gown. I can envision having one made up in a nice silk or lanella as a replacement for a jacket when at home.

I could post a photo from one of Eelking's books but I'm not sure about copyright issues.

I am not interested in all the frippery of a traditional dressing gown, but I do like to have something to change into instead of the suitcoat I have been wearing all day when we have guests for dinner. I have been using a navy, shawl-collared, metal-buttoned cardigan, but I recently asked Winston Tailors to make a simple sportcoat out of a nice cashmere for this purpose - with smoke MOP buttons and a dart-less sack cut, I hope to have the perfect thing. I had a fitting last week and expect it to be ready next week.

[Bishop of Briggs]

Uppercase, I am not sure how you would define "the best of British taste".

Turnbull & Asser has a very wide range, probably the widest, of shirts and ties. A conservative dresser can pick traditional plain coloured and bengal striped shirts along with plain grenadine or simple spotted ties. T&A is, of course, renowned for its more colourful designs- braces, cufflinks and pocket squares too. Its RTW selection of suits, blazers and sports coats, that I believe are made by Lutwyche Bespoke, are quite conservative too. The RTW shirts are not to my taste; the collars are too stiff and the fit is too big ("blousy").

T&A, in contrast to most of the other Jermyn Street "shirtmakers", decided against joining the price war with the likes of Lewin, Hawes & Curtis, Harvie & Hudson, Tyrwhitt and (to a lesser extent) Hilditch & Key and New & Lingwood. It raised its prices (including sale prices) to reflect the fact that it sells a genuine "made in England" product. The other "English" shirtmakers, Willis and Budd, have also maintained their price levels.

Budd is probably the most "traditional" shirtmaker with a store in or around Jermyn Street. Anderson & Sheppard, Henry Poole and other Row houses have recommended the firm to their customers. The service (IMHO) is arrogant and cynical there too and that attitude is reflected in the fact that the firm is almost unique in not having an online store. The staff's arrogance and rudeness certainly cost Budd my business last year.

If you are looking for value, Alexander Boyd (Rayner & Sturges) offers bespoke shirts for same price as T&A and Willis RTW. Frank Foster, if you are willing to wait, is very competitive and he is on my shortlist with Sean O'Flynn and Robert Whittaker. It's just a matter of personal choice. I am sure that at least one of those shirtmakers could make you an excellent gown.

[storeynicholas]

I think that Budd can be cranky rather than rude. I remember old Webster who bought the business and he was delightful. His daughter owns it now and is fine on the telephone. The staff have also always been fine with me but I shouldn't rate them as chums. So far as dressing gowns and pjs are concerned - I couldn't contemplate wearing anything here at night. So that's that for me. As for the comfortable house coat - a smoking jacket seems the perfect solution to me.
NJS

[Costi]

As for the comfortable house coat - a smoking jacket seems the perfect solution to me.
NJS

At all times? I hope you don't light up a cigar first thing in the morning...

[Scot]

I think that Budd can be cranky rather than rude. I remember old Webster who bought the business and he was delightful. His daughter owns it now and is fine on the telephone. The staff have also always been fine with me but I shouldn't rate them as chums. So far as dressing gowns and pjs are concerned - I couldn't contemplate wearing anything here at night. So that's that for me. As for the comfortable house coat - a smoking jacket seems the perfect solution to me.
NJS

I happened to be in Budd when another customer had the temerity to answer his mobile 'phone in the shop. The look he received was one of ill-disguised contempt and I am certain oaths were uttered, almost (but not quite) imperceptibly! I have found them a little patronsing but they are a good source of madder ties.

[storeynicholas]

As for the comfortable house coat - a smoking jacket seems the perfect solution to me.
NJS

At all times? I hope you don't light up a cigar first thing in the morning...

====OOOooo

[storeynicholas]

I think that Budd can be cranky rather than rude. I remember old Webster who bought the business and he was delightful. His daughter owns it now and is fine on the telephone. The staff have also always been fine with me but I shouldn't rate them as chums. So far as dressing gowns and pjs are concerned - I couldn't contemplate wearing anything here at night. So that's that for me. As for the comfortable house coat - a smoking jacket seems the perfect solution to me.
NJS

I happened to be in Budd when another customer had the temerity to answer his mobile 'phone in the shop. The look he received was one of ill-disguised contempt and I am certain oaths were uttered, almost (but not quite) imperceptibly! I have found them a little patronsing but they are a good source of madder ties.

I think that it's all part of an act: the shop that time forgot - and an exaggerated earnestness and disdain for technology. I have never noticed them to be actually rude (everything always ends with 'sir', anyway) but they have a position and stick to it. I suppose that, in this way, they manage to continue production in the traditional manner and cut on site. I have also always found them to be amenable to the cracking of a joke and the showing of interest in the shop.
NJS.

[Greger]

Has any heard of the internet jackets. Instead of a smoking jacket, they are like them, but intended for sitting at the computer and adapted for that purpose.

I'm curious what the adaptions would be.

[rjman]

Has any heard of the internet jackets. Instead of a smoking jacket, they are like them, but intended for sitting at the computer and adapted for that purpose.

I'm curious what the adaptions would be.

Kleenex pocket, probably, and Chee-to-proof finish.

The best dressing gowns RTW or bespoke that I have seen currently are made by Charvet -- they have silks as well as cashmeres made similarly to those sold by Sulka, with linings and belts with incredible braiding and tassels. No one else really comes close, but you pay for the privilege -- nearly 2000 euro.

Emma Willis RTW is also made by Rayner & Sturges, and I am not impressed with the one shirt I have from her. Her selling point, essentially, is that a pretty girl with a posh accent sells you a shirt in the London shop. Incredible that that now has translated into nearly $400 for a RTW shirt sold under her name at Saks in NY.

Dege has a very handsome dressing gown on its site, I imagine bespoke or MTO.

I have a heavy cashmere robe from Sulka that is like nothing I have ever seen -- basically like a huge cashmere scarf made to be worn as a robe. Sooner or later my wife will make it her own, I know it.

[alden]

The best dressing gowns RTW or bespoke that I have seen currently are made by Charvet -- they have silks as well as cashmeres made similarly to those sold by Sulka, with linings and belts with incredible braiding and tassels. No one else really comes close, but you pay for the privilege -- nearly 2000 euro.

Charvet's robes, dressing gowns and smoking jackets (vestes d'interieur) are the finest you can buy without a doubt.

RJ it is freezing in Europe these days and a cashmere robe sounds like a great idea.

Cheers

Michael

[dopey]

. . .
Dege has a very handsome dressing gown on its site, I imagine bespoke or MTO. . . .

I don't know about the plaid one on their site, but I had a cotton dressing gown from Dege. I don't know whether to call it was bespoke or MTM/MTO as I don't remember having a fitting, but I chose the material and piping I wanted. It eventually wore out and I looked into ordering another but never got around to it. At one time I considered ordering the replacement in a thin B&W wool houndstooth or a wool/cotton blend. I now have an English-made RTW silk model from Brooks Brothers that is very well made, though probably not up to Sulka or Charvet standards. It looks to be this one, though in a different silk pattern.

[alden]

I have been using a navy, shawl-collared, metal-buttoned cardigan, but I recently asked Winston Tailors to make a simple sportcoat out of a nice cashmere for this purpose - with smoke MOP buttons and a dart-less sack cut, I hope to have the perfect thing. I had a fitting last week and expect it to be ready next week.

Dopey

This is a great Idea. I have mine made in Colombo cashmere in blue, patch pockets, horn buttons, cut a bit on the large side. I recently found a piece of Bedford cord in a kind of French blue that is being made unlined, 3 button, flap pockets and oyster MoPs...

Post pics when your house coat is done....thanks

Michael