Matching "house style" to body shape

[sartorius]

A comment from another member on another thread, along the lines that a particular house style suited his body shape, made me think that this sort of information would be really useful when deciding where to go when commissioning new work. I wondered whether between us, we could come up with a sort of glossary of house styles and advice on matching them to body shape?

For example, I am slim, and have particularly skinny limbs, but very broad shoulders. I suspect that a classic A&S silhouette, with shoulders cut slightly wider than the natural shoulder, would not flatter me at all. Even suits cut to my natural shoulder tend to look quite "boxy" because of the prominence of my shoulders.

We know that certain firms favour certain characteristics in the way they make, such as a fuller chest or plenty of waist or a certain number of buttons (each of which may or may not suit certain body shapes).

This is not a question of fit because of course bespoke means, by definition, that the garment will be made for the individual. It is more a question of whether certain house styles are better suited to certain physiognomies.

Any views?

[Greger]

Wouldn't they have a house style for each body shape? It seems to me they would have for each style of coat (2 button, 3 button, 1-4 db, 2-6 db, etc.) for each body shape, as the customer would certainly like anyone of them styles. Can't imagine the best in the clothing business not having something of each for everybody.

If they can't make for everybody several styles I don't think they would be qualified to be called bespoke. The exceptions would be, styles lost to history or some speciality coats only a few know how to make, and extremely difficult body shapes to cut for, the latter would be for the best cutters.

[alden]

Sartorius

The idea has merit and we have some silhouette threads on the LL, most notably one assembled by Uppercase on Italian tailoring.

There are styles that suit different physiques to a degree and there is a good deal of confusion about them.

For example, I am slim, and have particularly skinny limbs, but very broad shoulders. I suspect that a classic A&S silhouette, with shoulders cut slightly wider than the natural shoulder, would not flatter me at all. Even suits cut to my natural shoulder tend to look quite "boxy" because of the prominence of my shoulders.

Verify that suspicion against some of the images in dresswithstyle. A natural shoulder might flatter your physique more than you imagine.

Stay tuned to some new developments on DWS that move a bit in the direction you suggest.

Cheers

Michael