It is best to develop ideas and ideals on concrete examples and not merely “in general”. By this post I hope to provide some material for a discussion about proportion, cut, fit and elegance.
I think that we will all agree that the single most important value of bespeaking is the option to individualize the clothing to the unique figure of the wearer. Now regarding the principles of such individualization there seems to be no consensus. Some people say that tall and slim people benefit the most from the soft, three button and low-gorge jacket models. At the same time, others assert that the defined, one button Huntsman style coat attenuates all the good things about the body type best. One issue I would like to raise in this post is to try to ascertain the arguments both the schools have, and attempt to evaluate and construe each in terms of degree of applicability to various cases of “tall and slim”.
Personally (I am indeed tall at 1.9m and relatively slim with long-ish torso and short-ish arms and a large head), I tend to favor the one-button approach. I feel that there is naturally more elegance n the longer lapel line, since it signals out and symbolizing the inherent “resourcefulness” of the body underneath (i., the natural length of the torso). I am now thinking of bespeaking a new jacket and am struggling with the choice of the buttoning point. One the one hand, I have never tried the 1-button structure and wonder if that would not be the best solution for the unique features of my body. On the other hand, I am also a bit cautious about the overly long lapel line. From this second perspective, the high two-button structure, with both the buttons buttoned up, seems like a better alternative. Dear members of the forum, what do you think would be the better option in my case? (Attached are pictures of me in coats of different cuts: one with a lower button placement – this is how I envision the 1-button model, and another with the high 2-button placement). Thank you in advance!
Regards,
A
