Lanvin Paris Bespoke?

[pur_sang]

I know a lot of the members here have zero regard for fashion houses. However, Lanvin as well as having a thriving mens fashion business have had a bespoke menswear department for a long time.

I am hoping to have something made by them before the artisans of the last generation are gone.

My question is, have anyone here tried Lanvin bespoke?

[rjman]

I know a lot of the members here have zero regard for fashion houses. However, Lanvin as well as having a thriving mens fashion business have had a bespoke menswear department for a long time.

I am hoping to have something made by them before the artisans of the last generation are gone.

My question is, have anyone here tried Lanvin bespoke?

Had a few shirts made. However, I understand there has been turnover since then -- even if the cutter is still there, they no longer are making everything in-house at the atelier they had in their building.

Lanvin also opened a men's custom shop on Savile Row last year. However, I have a strong suspicion that they're either offering MTM or farming that out.

[pur_sang]

The Savile Row store is mainly their RTW fashion line, a suits line as well as a MTM service, but no bespoke.

It seems like since Lanvin have been bought by a Taiwanese businesswoman, their focus is profit profit profit, which is RTW, and less bespoke. That is a real shame. I am hoping to explore more when I am in Paris next time.

Although, last time I was there, I asked the store salesperson about the bespoke department, she didn't seem to understand the word bespoke (language differences), and she said it does not exist. However, now I know someone who works there, and I think I will be able to learn more the next time I go.

[alden]

RJ and Pur Sang

About six years ago Lanvin separated with the artisans in their bespoke atelier. The tailor who worked there for years, a happy fellow, retired to his native Puglia and was not replaced. Others on the team, each of them very simpatico, received more brusque treatment.

Lanvin had one of the best shirtmakers in the world for over thirty years, our own M. Duboin. The shirts were cut in house by Pierre but made by a third party factory. Lanvin also had one of the last bespoke hatmakers, an artisan now creating hand made marvels for the LL and its members.

The way I understand it the Lanvin bespoke program today has no “in house” reality as RJ suggests, that is, unless something dramatic has changed in the prestigious house recently.

[rjman]

Lanvin had one of the best shirtmakers in the world for over thirty years, our own M. Duboin. The shirts were cut in house by Pierre but made by a third party factory. Lanvin also had one of the last bespoke hatmakers, an artisan now creating hand made marvels for the LL and its members.

My understanding from discussing with Pierre -- and from my orders with Marc Lauwers, who took over from him and whom you once called the best shirtmaker currently working -- was that the artisans working on the shirts were in-house in the building itself. But that's just a quibble. By the middle of last year I understand things had changed.

Lanvin has had various owners; the Taiwanese have owned it for a while and I cannot say that they are directly responsible for these changes in a way that any other shortsighted, wretchedly practical owners would not have been. See, for example, Bargeman (a pure-blooded English name) and his treatment of Huntsman described in Richard Anderson's new book, or South African Anthony Spitz's treatment of Bowring Arundel/Poulsen Skone.

Gelot, the bespoke hatmaker in Lanvin, was "gelee" a few years ago.

I can say that visiting the bespoke floor at Lanvin in 2007 I was always the only customer there, whether weekdays or weekends -- and that floor housed the shirtmakers, the tailors and the hatters.

[alden]

from my orders with Marc Lauwers, who took over from him and whom you once called the best shirtmaker currently working

After Pierre Duboin, Lauwers was the best individual craftsman available in Paris other than Charvet, where he was trained. Is Marc still at Lanvin?

Cheers

Michael

[pur_sang]

So far, it's not sounding positive at all.

It's a real shame, I honestly get a real sense of sadness when I hear these things, I just wish people sometimes look past the $ and think longer term. One day, the world is going to have no tradition, only then, people will realise that money cannot buy back the tradition.

[rjman]

from my orders with Marc Lauwers, who took over from him and whom you once called the best shirtmaker currently working

After Pierre Duboin, Lauwers was the best individual craftsman available in Paris other than Charvet, where he was trained. Is Marc still at Lanvin?

Cheers

Michael

Good question. I'm not sure.

[ykh]

I have had experience at Lanvin Sur Mesure (Bespoke) a couple of years ago - had made two suits and a vicuna coat. The cutter was previously at Cerruti Paris Bespoke (whom no longer offers bespoke after its head cutter (Luigi) died a few years ago). They were beautifully made, with lovely done handsewn buttonholes and stichings, etc. The house style is as of those worn by Jacques Chiarc. Personally, I much prefer the style of Smalto. Camps de Luca is close to that as their styles could trace back to the original Camps look.

[pur_sang]

I just came back from Paris on Thursday, and I can safely report that Lanvin do have a bespoke department, and it seems like they are doing very well. I had a long chat with them, and the manager showed me lots of different fabric at different price points, he assured me that everything is done there in house (their made to measure is done in Italy). I met the head cutter as well, I do not know his background thoroughly, he speaks French and Italian, a quick google search suggests that he might have worked at Arny's before.

They told me that lots of the work is done by hand, and although my knowledge is limited, the craftsmanship do look very good. I do get a feeling that they take their bespoke service very very seriously. Make no mistake, this is a full bespoke service, individual pattern and three fittings.

I asked them whether they have a house style, they said no, they said they will make any suit to the customer's preference, they are offering their craftsmanship.

While I was there, their was an old French couple there, it seems like the man was attending one of his fittings, so business do look good.

[alden]

Pur_Sang

Good news. I will have to stop by and have a look next time I am in town.

Cheers

Michael

[Daedalus]

Interviews with Lucas Ossendrijver (the RTW menswear designer), Marc Lauwers and Vito D'Onghia.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U63PWOOcbN0&
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hhYU6tAg10M&

[pur_sang]

I wish I understood French...