First look at the completed LL Polo Coat

[alden]

I am very pleased to show you the first pictures of the LL Polo Coat.

There is still a bit of work to be done, but you can get a general idea of the design.



The cloth is an old style 26 ozs. Donegal herringbone tweed in an oatmeal shade. I must say I have never seen the quality and chic of a fabric make as much of a difference as with this Polo coat



After having carefully studied scores of pictures and illustrations of Polo coats, this Ulster illustration from AA made a significant impression on me. I appreciated the simplicity of the line and the treatment of the reversible collar.



I will be publishing pictures of the final product in a few days.

Cheers

Michael

[alden]

Well the voyage in the search of the Polo came to a inspiring conclusion today when I went to pick up the coat. It has surpassed, by a very wide margin, all expectations. A very hardy tip of the hat goes to the tailor, who was a solid teammate and co-conspirator in the making of the coat. He came with advice at just the right moments and made positive contributions to the styling and make of the garment. Well done.



There is a belt to go with the coat but it will never be used as it detracts from the beauty and line.

The buttons are natural shade horn buttons and these compliment perfectly the oatmeal brown shade of the Donegal cloth. I could see using the MOP buttons with camelhair but not with the Donny.



As regards the old style 26 ozs Donegal, it is nothing short of magic. Its something our members have been asking for and here it is specially designed, commissioned, woven, finished and tested.

The circle is complete and the test positive. So I will be offering a very limited edition series of this overcoat cloth to start: 36 meters of cloth to be made available in 3m lengths for 12 members. There are a variety of colors to choose from so stay tuned!

Cheers

M Alden

[Costi]

Absolutely superb!

[Lance]

Michael - Well done, you've put the Polo in an Ulster! Will the 26 oz camelhair fall as softly as your Donegal?

[alden]

Michael - Well done, you've put the Polo in an Ulster!

Lance, the results of my research have taught me that a Polo is nothing more than a sporty version of an Ulster. It will have quarter stitching, belt, patch pockets, MOP buttons. That’s about it. An Ulster will be more sleek and more city, with flap pockets, no quarter stitching, plain buttons and no belt. They both will have a reversible collar as opposed to a wide DB collar!

Will the 26 oz camelhair fall as softly as your Donegal?

I have not felt the LL camelhair yet but I fully expect it to be more rigid than the Donegal. It will require very soft tailoring to reach its maximum aesthetic potential.

The Donegal is exceptional. The pictures do not render the cloth at all. It has a combination of qualities that is difficult to find: heavy, dense, strong cloth that is soft and lustrous. I am very impressed with it.

Cheers

Michael

[alden]

Absolutely superb!

Costi

Thanks. I have to say that this coat is the single most impressive bespoke work in my collection. A combination of good styling ideas, remarkable tailoring and superb cloth came together to form a very pleasing result.

Cheers

Michael

[pemazel]

Dear Michael,

First of all: thanks for your efforts (again): they really make sure that the LL stands out by far.

Of course I am interested (again). I would be much more so, if your tailor could make the coat as well: it is not easy to find an adequate tailor in the rural parts of the Netherlands or even in Amsterdam. As a coat does not seem as complicated as a suit (in my eyes at least) it shouldn't be too complicated to find a decent tailor in the UK - or am I totally wrong?

Regards,

P.

[radicaldog]

As a woman would say, it looks gorgeous. The design of the collar is particularly impressive. Ditto for the shoulder construction. Great choice of buttons, too.

[radicaldog]

As regards the old style 26 ozs Donegal, it is nothing short of magic. Its something our members have been asking for and here it is specially designed, commissioned, woven, finished and tested.

Would it be possible to purchase the cloth, or is it only available through the LL benchmade to measure programme?

[alden]

Would it be possible to purchase the cloth, or is it only available through the LL benchmade to measure programme?

Radicaldog,

Thank you for the kind comments.

We have orders for the Alden Polo coat and there is some Donegal cloth available to be made from the tests that have been completed. I will be reordering in the next weeks. And the first test of LL camelhair should arrive and be made in the next weeks as well. Stay tuned.

Our many new readers should know that the LL bespoke offering, known as “benchmade to measure”, works in tandem with the cloth club in the sense that many LL members will subscribe to a limited edition cloth and then have it made in our atelier. In essence, we have created a tailoring resource that prefers and is friendly towards customer supplied cloth (as opposed to many tailors who refuse it.)

The “books” are fine and their products are made available, but we take a lot more pleasure in making garments from rare and exceptional cloth. In that regard, I am commissioning a few select pieces like the heavyweight Donegal, heavyweight camelhair and the ultimate 1000 gms whipcord to have available for members.

This week I will be at a textile show making new contacts and looking for new makers who have the capacity and desire to accept the challenge of an LL commission. The weaving team we have today is impressive and we can make just about any kind of cloth. I am looking for shirting fabrics and silks this week so the clothclub can become more complete associated with new LL ateliers that are gearing up to handmake shirts, ties and accessories for our members from limited edition fabrics. Stay tuned..

As is stands today the LL BTM products compare favorably with clothes made on SR or in Naples. That was the challenge I assumed when the LL bespoke facility was launched. Of course, the production is very small and artisanal so its not really fair to compare our garments with those of large houses. We work one on one. That means one tailor cuts, fits and makes one garment for one customer. That is the only way to produce exceptional clothing. But the nature of the process is self limiting and as such the LL will always be makers for the illuminated, and hopefully happy, few.

Cheers

Michael

[alden]

The Polo winds up looking like this when draped on the old body:









Cheers

M Alden

[uppercase]

Molto Excellente!!

Is this Polo made by the Sicilian chapter of LL?

[alden]

Grazie!

Yes, cut and sewn in Sicily.


Michael

[storeynicholas]

Splendid and the cuffs finish it nicely.
NJS

[Costi]

You will turn many heads on the streets of Paris this autumn