A question for the artisans amongst you...

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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sartorius
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Wed Sep 09, 2009 4:17 pm

Once a bespoke coat is finished, how easy is it then to add fullness or swell to the chest?
sartorius
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Sun Sep 13, 2009 5:35 pm

Hmmm, lots of views ... but no answers. :o

I will be visiting my tailor next week, with blazer in tow, so had hoped to be able to go armed with a little more than only ignorance on the subject. Any comments or views appreciated... :?
alden
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Sun Sep 13, 2009 7:13 pm

Sartorious

I suspect it is a difficult thing to do because tailors will not normally leave much in the way of margins to work with . The coat is made.

Did you request a full or swelled chest?

The time to make these requests known is at the first fitting, when all can be repaired and modified.

If you like your tailor and wish to build a good working relationship, point out the faults in the coat that should have been noticed and corrected by them: in this case the buckling at the sleevehead, the back balance issue and the lack of breadth across the shoulders. Style changes like a swelled chest or more full chest should have been discussed during the fittings. Make sure and make the point that you would like the style changes on your next coat. You will probably have to accept this same position for the fitting issues as they will be difficult to fix. Make the point that you recognize the errors and wish to make sure they do not occur on the next attempt.

Its a good first try and a good tailor will get you closer on bespoke adventure #2

Bon courage

Michael
sartorius
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Sun Sep 13, 2009 9:26 pm

Michael,

Thank you. I appreciate of course that some things are correctable once a coat is finished, and some things are not.

I have a number of coats from this particular maker, all of which I am very happy with except for this one, but for reasons which I have never really been able to articulate.

I will discuss things again with my tailor next week and we shall see what, if anything, may be done to correct things. Thanks again,

Sartorius
alden
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Mon Sep 14, 2009 6:55 am

I have a number of coats from this particular maker, all of which I am very happy with except for this one, but for reasons which I have never really been able to articulate.
I understand, somehow my impression was that this was a first effort. If you have had a few good coats from the maker, it makes this one a little more difficult to explain. The cloth used certainly can make a difference or maybe a different tailor made the coat.

Good luck

Michael
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