1st commission - Versatile & durable odd jacket

[JDelage]

All,

I'm in need of a sport coat for Fall & Winter. It's going to be my first commission in terms of high quality clothing, and I'm interested in people's opinions here. My needs are for something very versatile and it's going to be a big investment for me, so durability is important. Comfort is key, luxury is accessory (but I have nothing against it...). This will be used in rotation with 3 herringbone tweed jackets (brown, beige, and olive green), and a Land's End charcoal fuzzy cashmere one, but I would want to be able to wear this one with greater frequency than the others.

My preliminary thinking would be:

- Color: I think camel to medium brown would be most versatile. Right now I'm rather thinking solid, speckled, nail head or maybe herringbone. I don't think anything bigger would be versatile enough.

- Materials: I'm thinking wool or camel hair, but I understand that wool would be more durable than camel hair. I normally like some or much texture, but I'm open to other ideas. I have very little knowledge of the offering of the various weavers, and I expect to find that a bit overwhelming, so specifics here would be welcome, especially with regard to references you have yourself tried and liked. I've been recommended the Harrissons Thornproof.

- Shape: single breasted, 1 or 2 buttons, jet or flap pockets, 2 vents. I like the idea of a 1-button, jet pocket, peak lapel coat, but I am not sure whether that can work for something that will be by nature fairly casual. Your opinion on that would be appreciated.

Many thanks to all of you.

JD

[sartorius]

JD,

The most versatile odd jacket is probably the blazer. I personally would go for a single breasted, notch lapel. As you will know, the buttons should be metal (brass, gold or silver) and I personally would keep them plain. I don't think it matters a great deal whether you go for 1, 2 or 3 buttons. Likewise, with the vents. As to fabric, I would suggest a wool, flannel or serge. There is also cashmere, of course, if you're feeling flush.

Good luck,

Sartorius

[alden]

JD

I would suggest you stay with the herringbones and look for something with an understated windowpane. That should change things a bit from the other three herringbone plains in your wardrobe.

Wool is the way to go and the kind of weave and wool will depend on the use. Long wet, humid winters can take their toll on Shetlands and their kin. If you plan on really wearing this coat, then a Harrisons heavyweight is a good idea.

I confess not to know a lot about the cloth in “the books” since I have been served by CC offerings the past few years and lost interest in the distributors. W Bill will be a good resource for you as well as LBD/Harrisons.

Keep us up to date on your project and ask as many questions as required

Cheers

M Alden

[JDelage]

All,

Thank you for your advice. The blazer wasn't really in the race for me, not versatile enough, not my style. I'll keep you updated on the project.

The SB blazer isn't seen much nowadays, at least in the Northern part of the 16eme - who knows what might go on in Passy and the like. To the contrary we see an inordinate amount of odd jackets worn with ties & pocket squares, at least in the Victor Hugo area, which I am most familiar with. You don't see that many pocket squares in Paris otherwise - though of course it all depends on where, when, and with whom one is.

JD

[Jordan Marc]

JD:

Since camel hair seems to appeal to you, start searching for high-quality sources of the fabric in Australia. The country is inundated with
over a million dromedaries (single hump variety). A long time ago camels were shipped to Australia to lug bundles of fabric and other
goods to port for export. They served their purpose and were turned loose. Camels breed like crazy. What else is there to do in the barren
regions of Australia? And they have voracious appetites. Put simply, they're a menace. The herds are being culled by sanctioned hunters.
Camel meat and milk, which is tasty and nutricious, is much sought after by impoverished people in underdeveloped countries, but the
real prize is camel hair. A bundle of the best fetches big buckelinos.

By the way, camels are not pleasant to be near. They have a tendency to spit at humans. Their breath is second only in foulness to the ungodly stench of a whale showering you through its blowhole. And a camel's kick is similar to a giraffe; it can kill you.

JMB

[yialabis]

JD ,
The photos below show one of the first odd coats I have worn back in the 80’s and which I still wear very often. I inherited it from my step father ,originally made for him in the late 60’s by C&B . It is 18oz cashmere and it is as durable as it can get . The years have proved it . If I was you I would go for the LL Etna .



Regards
Vassilis

[JDelage]

Vassilis,

Thank you. I like the Etna concept very much, but I thought that cashmere would not be durable enough. It sounds like I was wrong.

[DD MacDonald]

JD- I might define a versitile jacekt as one that works in the context of your current wardrobe.

With olive, brown and tan herringbones you have the trousers to mix and match in those color values so go for the total upgrade. Michael published a fantastic 500g +/- herringbone with a green and violet windowpane that I'd suggest you consider - LLTW08. Herringbone cloth is wonderful, the weave giving it some spring and structure. The cheviot wool that the cloth is woven in giving it durability. The "nearness" to your current wardrobe makes it versatile. The quality of the cloth and its rarity makes it an upgrade.

Edwin DeBoise is finishing a jacket in the cloth for me and I'll post pictures when it arrives. If I remember correctly, he may have a spare length of the cloth.

As to other "versatile" tweeds - well executed gun clubs and window-panes are hard to beat.

In terms of styling and approach to the project, I'm not sure that I understand the "target". If you go tweed, I'd avoid the peaked lapels if you want a casual garment. I'd also seriously consider 3 buttons - with a scarf and a cap, pop the collar and do up all 3 buttons and you can get through a lot of weather. One and two button garments are never as versatile once you step outside on a november evening.

This also brings up one last thought, if you don't have a jacket made of heavier cloth then really consider 500g and beyond.

I think your big question is what hole in your wardrobe are your trying to fill. If its simply "expand the rotation" then I'd think one way like adding the LLTW08 for the reasons given. If its "need a city jacket" or a jacket to wear casually in the evening, then a darker tweed probably makes sense.

DDM

[JDelage]

DD,

Thanks. Your comments regarding lapel & buttons are where I've moved to, in the context of a tweed(ish) coat). I still like the idea of a peak lapel SB 1-button coat, but maybe that can best be put in practice with a suit.