Bespoke Raglan with cape

[alden]

Raglan caped overcoat


Awhile back I posted a picture of a man I saw in a pharmacy in Paris wearing a bespoke Raglan overcoat with removable cape. The idea of making such a coat has stuck in my mind and the recent arrival of a sturdy olive green and cream herringbone Donegal has set the machine in motion.

This is the original photo of the Raglan with removable cape made by one of the “great five” Parisian tailors of the past, Max Eveline, Rue Faubourg St. Honore :



And here is a look of the same style of coat from the 1920 cover of “Monsieur” magazine:



The Eveline version has slash pockets while the 20s version has patch.

The sleeves of the cape on the “Monsieur” are longer and arrive nearly to the elbow. For a tall man this may well be the way to go as it gives a longer more flowing, graceful line. The cape on the more modern version seems too short.

The cape could be attached with handsome horn buttons or it could be permanently sewn on. The cloth I am going to work with is 755 gms weight so the removable style seems most suitable.

So the end result will look a bit like this, but with the cape:




What are your thoughts?

Cheers

Michael Alden

[Jordan Marc]

Michael:

The cover illustration from "Monsieur" is definitely the way to go. It has the dash and romance of what a capecoat should be, while the coat in the photo seems out of proportion. Not enough cape, not enough drape. Of course the proportions of a capecoat depend upon the size of the
man and the talent of his tailor. A different hat is needed, too, unless you're a reenacter infatuated with the 19th Century. Fans of Conan Doyle would do well to watch Basil Rathbone as Sherlock Holmes wearing a capecoat companioned by a tweed fedora, just what you need
while pursuing Dr. Moriarty. If the climate is right, windy and chilled to the bone, a capecoat will keep you warm. And if the cape can be
buttoned off so the coat can stand alone in town, so much the better.

JMB

[Jordan Marc]

Michael:

Further thoughts on the detachable cape. The simple way of attaching a cape to the coat would be with exposed buttonholes. However,
if a man chooses to go capeless and turn up his collar against the weather, the back of his neck is ringed with buttons. Not the most
aesthetic look, to say the least. Suppose you created a fryfront cape attachment with the buttons on the underside of the cape and
buttonholes on the coat itself. Certainly less conspicuous than buttons ringing the back of your collar, don't you think?

The underside of the cape should not be overlooked. The most sensible solution would be to have it match the lining of the coat. Some
like a touch of vivid color, others splash out on a fancy pattern. Whatever your preference, a gust of wind will expose the underside of
the cape to appreciative passersby. Color and pattern and individuality make the man!

JMB

[Costi]

Let us not miss the fact that, while the first image is a real life photograph, the second one is more dramatic due to the nature of the illustration.
I have been considering for a while a similar type of overcoat - what the French seem to call a Macfarlane: essentially a cloak with two long slits for the arms to come out, covered by a wrist-length cape. In this case the cape's length is justified functionally, too. Also, there is no bulk of heavy cloth between the arms and the body, which feels a lot less restrictive.

[alden]

Costi

Are you thinking about the Inverness style cape coat without a sleeve?



Michael

[Costi]

Sort of, but unlike the Inverness which (as far as I know) has high armholes that keep the arms out at all times,
the Macfarlane has two long slits through which you can put your arms out if you need to (and they are covered by the cape) or keep them under the cloak. You can even keep your hands in your trouser pockets, with your overcoat on... Plus it is easier to put and take off - all you need to do is throw it on or off your shoulders.

[alden]

Costi

The man in your illustration is wearing a coat, with the Macfarlane, and cape over it. That makes for three layers of cloth. The Donegal tweed I want to work with is 26 ozs. x 3 = poached Alden hold the toast.

My idea is akin to the top two illustrations: a Raglan country coat with a (removable) cape. If it is not too cold, wear the Raglan with a jumper. If it is raining or threatening, button on the cape. If it is a blizzard, wear a tweed coat, Raglan with cape.

I don’t think exposed horn buttons would necessarily be unpleasant to look at on the collar.

Michael

[Costi]

Michael,

My post was unclear, sorry. The drawing was meant to illustrate what the Inverness looks like under the cape - with a small armhole. The Macfarlane (of which I have no illustration) has two long slits (from the shoulder down to under waist level) in the cloak rather armholes.You can stick your arms out through the slits (and they will be covered by the cape), or keep them under the cloak for warmth. Lacking sleeves, the Macfarlane has one less layer of cloth with respect to a caped Raglan. That's why I was thinking about it, especially if done in a thick Donegal.
Nevertheless, I can see the potential and versatility of a caped Raglan and think it is an excellent idea.

[alden]

Costi

Yes, the Inverness (Macfarlane) is a sleeveless raglan coat fit with a cape. It is a very effective walking coat design.



I can remember a photo of Philippe Noiret wearing one in a seriously loud Scottish estate tweed. It was remarkable. Sadly the photo was in a French magazine years ago, nowhere to be found.

The Inverness is more restricted in its use than the caped Raglan I am imagining. I think it looks very handsome with a coat worn underneath and probably less happy with a jumper or thick flannel shirt.

Michael

[Greger]

I don’t think exposed horn buttons would necessarily be unpleasant to look at on the collar.

Michael

You could put buttons under the collar and button holes in the cape. I wouldn't put the buttons on the collar if the collar is large but, you could place the buttons just below the collar stand on the coat; this wouldn't work with a narrower collar.

The cape itself could have a separate collar that is attachable with buttons for other uses.

[alden]

I have actually run across a style that recalls the illustration on the cover of Monsieur:

http://www.osfcostumerentals.org/stock/ ... 20C48.html

It looks like a wide lapel SB with convertible collar fitted with a cape.

Michael

[Hesketh]

Michael:

if a man chooses to go capeless and turn up his collar against the weather, the back of his neck is ringed with buttons. Not the most aesthetic look, to say the least.
JMB

You would only need one button at the back and one each side at the front. That wouldn't be at all conspicuous. I've had something similar on a "driza-bone" type coat and it works fine.

Regards

Rob