White tie accessories

[BirdofSydney]

Gentlemen,

I am acquiring a tailcoat and trousers to wear to an upcoming charity function (I am one of the organisers, so I can't precisely be overdressed!). Do I understand correctly that it should be accessorised thus:

White marcella-front shirt with single cuffs with links, studs, and a wing collar
White pique bow tie
White pique DB vest
Black opera pumps

Is a turndown collar on the shirt an option? How about a covered placket and plain front? I gather the former is a maybe whereas the latter is a definite no.

Also, guessing patent Oxfords would be a maybe but polished calf is right out?

I must say, I am scared and excited by this...

-Bird

[Costi]

The turndown collar is certainly out.
Patent pumps, patent oxfords or polished calf oxfords - in my view you can wear any.
Take care with the shape of the waistcoat and don't use a pre-tied bow.
Most important of all - don't be scared and ENJOY!

[Jovan the Un1337]

I'm surprised you didn't mention anything about studs, Costi. I was under the impression a two-stud marcella front shirt was absolutely necessary.

[bepmep]

Most definitely TWO studded shirt with white tie, THREE studded shirt with black tie. Sounds like a great event! I never get to wear my tails!

[kilted2000]

www.blacktieguide.com has information about white tie as well.

[le.gentleman]

Most definitely TWO studded shirt with white tie, THREE studded shirt with black tie. Sounds like a great event! I never get to wear my tails!

A shirt with just a single stud is also perfectly adequate. Moreover, I'd wear a detachable collar. Here they have a bunch of different collar styles http://www.vintageshirt.co.uk/list_collars.php
In case you decode to wear a detachable collar, make sure you have collar buttons - a short one for the 2 layers of cloth in the back and a longer one for 4 layers in the front.


When buying a shirt for a detachable collar, make sure to size down by half an inch - if your your collar size is 16" - get a 16" collar and a 15.5" shirt otherwise it won't work.

Personally, I like a DB waistcoat with removable studs. Maybe you can get a big set with cufflinks, shirt studs and waistcoat studs e.g.:

Other than that, you could choose some nice pearls for your shirt and some nice cufflinks and waistcoat buttons:



With regard to shoes and the white tie, I agree with Costi. Make sure you have enough time to tie your bow tie because tying a marcella bib or piquée bow tie requires more skill than a silk bow tie which you wear with your tuxedo

[Jovan the Un1337]

I've read exactly the opposite, that you're supposed to get your regular collar size on the shirt and size up a half inch on the collar. I'm wondering why this is so either way -- why don't makers allow for this?

[le.gentleman]

I've read exactly the opposite, that you're supposed to get your regular collar size on the shirt and size up a half inch on the collar. I'm wondering why this is so either way -- why don't makers allow for this?

From my experience I can just tell you that for me it's the other way round and it works perfectly. But just think about it for a minute. If your collar size is let's say 16" why should you all of a sudden buy a 16.5" collar? That does not make any sense to me whatsoever since a collar which is too big looks rather pathetic imho. Then again, I don't feel restricted at all with a collar closely fitting around my neck.

[Jovan the Un1337]

From what I've seen on someone who does just what I described, it doesn't look too big.

[storeynicholas]

From what I've seen on someone who does just what I described, it doesn't look too big.

I think that the point is that the collarband of the shirt takes up a 1/2" of space between the collar and the neck. I've never noticed any resulting gappiness.
NJS

[Elton]

Further to this, be sure that your vest doesn’t extended below the front of your coat and that your tunic has a loop at the back to retain your tie, less it rise above the collar of your coat (which it most likely will, resulting in you looking like one half of ‘A couple of swells’) . Don’t forget the white braces too. I bought my tunic, collar, vest, tie and gloves from Budd. Are you going to wear a topper? If so and if you’re based in or near to London, I can highly recommend Hetherington Hats (http://www.toffs-r-us.net/) for topper hire. You can read a review here http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/feature ... ppers.html. I’ve attached a photo of myself wearing a hired tail coat and trousers, however I think the proper whites really transform the hired parts.

Also, like Costi says, have fun! It’s not often that a gentleman has the opportunity to wear formal dress.

Elton.

[Elton]

Just noticed, you couldn't be any further away from London

[BirdofSydney]

Upon further reading, some authorities are supportive of a turndown collar (after the Duke of Windsor), and most suggest a stiff plain-fronted shirt rather than marcella (the bowtie and waistcoat already being in same).

I am waivering on the acquisition of the rig, as I'm just not sure I will give it enough use, as good as it would look.

So my new question is, is it ever acceptable to wear a marcella waistcoat with black tie? I can't get a waistcoat to match the DJ I want to buy (SB shawl lapel), and don't overly want to wear a cummerbund...

[kilted2000]

^White marcella waistcoats can be worn with black tie.

[le.gentleman]

Upon further reading, some authorities are supportive of a turndown collar (after the Duke of Windsor), and most suggest a stiff plain-fronted shirt rather than marcella (the bowtie and waistcoat already being in same).

I am waivering on the acquisition of the rig, as I'm just not sure I will give it enough use, as good as it would look.

So my new question is, is it ever acceptable to wear a marcella waistcoat with black tie? I can't get a waistcoat to match the DJ I want to buy (SB shawl lapel), and don't overly want to wear a cummerbund...

Can you please provide the names of the authorities who suggest to wear a turn down collar with white tie? Thanks!