Dark gray suit ... and maybe a morning coat in same cloth

[BirdsOneView]

At some point, but hopefully this year, I need to replace my solid charcoal suit (which no longer fits properly).

The suit I am planning would be a three piece and would effectively stand in where morning dress would have been expected 80 years ago -- e.g., daytime weddings and funerals.

I know I want a heavy worsted cloth that isn't slick, shiny, or modern looking.

I've been looking at Harrison's swatches online and hope to see some in person soon. There are a number of cloths in the Fine Classics and the P&B Universal that interest me.

Most of the solid grays in those bunches are twills. Is a twill weave considered any more or less formal than a plain weave in this context?

I'm also considering a fine herringbone or a sharkskin.

One thought, which may be a pipe dream, is that I might later have a morning coat made in the same cloth as the suit that I am planning now. Would a twill or sharkskin morning coat be appropriate, or would it be better to have it in herringbone?

Or should a morning coat really be black?

I should probably have a look at Lesser's cloth as well. Any others?

[manton]

I have a similar suit in Smith 2675. It is a twill, which is fine, formaility wise. It is not quite dark enough for a morning coat with striped trousers (which I think really ought to be black or oxford gray) and definitely not light enough for "morning suit" (which ought to be medium gray or lighter, IMO). I don't care, as I have no use for a true morning coat.

Herringbone I would do, as that is traditional. Sharkskin, I would not.

[BirdsOneView]

Thank you manton. If the suit you mention is the one I have seen in pictures (with wide shawl lapels on the vest), it has already helped inspire what I am planning -- although I am considerably shorter than you, so there will necessarily be some differences in the cut and detailing especially of the vest.

[Leon]

One thought, which may be a pipe dream, is that I might later have a morning coat made in the same cloth as the suit that I am planning now.

I am thinking of doing this. Dark grey would be fine for morning suit.



Leon

[Bishop of Briggs]

The Princess Royal with Andrew Parker-Bowles, ex-husband of her sister-in-law, and a well-known philanderer. Where is her dull husband?

[BirdsOneView]

Alas, I doubt I will ever be a "well-known philanderer".

Just had a look at the charcoal suit I need to replace and it is in fact a twill, though the yarns are small enough that it's hard for me to see the pattern without a loupe. For some reason I had misremembered it as a plain weave.

I'm looking through some swatches from Harrisons P&B Universal and Fine Classics that are quite nice (thanks Andrew Rogers!). A few random notes follow.

For charcoal the Fine Classics 47354 is good but I prefer the P&B both 74114 and 74178 (and I'm having a hard time deciding between them). In the slightly lighter gray 47353 the FC holds its own.

74179 is particularly laconic. Don't believe I'll get a suit in it, but I think it would make great winter trousers.

74180, fwiw, is slightly bluer than the rest of the Harrisons dark grays. At least, this swatch is.

The more I think about it, the less advantageous it seems to get a lounge suit from the same cloth I'd want for a morning coat. I'd probably never wear the morning coat with the matching trousers, so the only common piece would be the vest.

[BirdsOneView]

If anyone has experience with both the 18/19 oz and 15/16 plain twills from Harrison's P&B Universal, I'd like to hear your opinions of them.

[alden]

If you are looking for a plain twill in dark grey in a 15-16 ozs weight, there is only one to consider: Smith's Whole Fleece in dark grey. There are many LL members who have had suits from this cloth. If you just want to buy the cloth to make later, you can contact Smith's directly and they will sell it to you. Or have your tailor order the cloth for you by calling Smith's directly.

If you require an email or telephone contact for Smith's please write me

Cheers

Michael

[BirdsOneView]

Thank you Michael. I noted the contact info when I came across it in another thread here. I wonder if this is the same cloth 2675 that Manton mentioned.

[alden]

I wonder if this is the same cloth 2675 that Manton mentioned.

Yes, that is the Whole Fleece cloth.

Michael

[ay329]

Alden and others...what is desireable about Smith's Whole Fleece

I have recently purchased the aforementioned P&B Universal Charcoal 15/16oz cloth # 74114...but am still in the market for a dark blue or royal blue cloth...thus I'm interested in learning more about Smith's Whole Fleece

[whyescalar]

Are you in Britain, and do you intend to use this for Ascot? If so, consider a couple of things.

a.) UK summer getting hotter;
b.) spending multiple days at the Royal Enclosure.

If you'll find yourself attending several days of races, then it is correct to change ones trous, but the coat can stay the same. I have also been thinking about this same combination with a normal grey summer suit. One will find several hues of grey, and black. You can get a pair of striped trousers at either Ede & Ravenscroft or Hackett. It also comes in handy for weddings, since you're not always wearing the SAME thing. One can always get ideas seeing what Moss Bros. has on offer for hire.