Illustration of the week #12

[alden]

It is Summer, not that I would have to remind many of you Northern hemisphere types of the fact. It is 40+C were I am seeking cool shelter.

These two gents in Nassau don’t seem to be having a problem looking good in the heat as they watch the races. One man is dressed in a very colorful way and the other more muted. The flannel trousers of the later recall our LL summer variety now on order. They are paired with a gabardine or linen odd jacket, a yellow shirt and wheat colored pocket square. This is an effective and elegant combination.

The colorful chap wearing the bright coral trousers tones his dress down through the use of what the Esquire writers call a “neutralizer”, a jacket whose “natural shade” is almost tone on tone, a light peach shade that recalls the trouser color. So why is it a neutralizer? Imagine for a moment that the two men switch jackets. The white linen coat paired with the coral trousers would create such a bold contrast as to highlight or accentuate the color as opposed to softening or “neutralizing.”

If you want to wear bright colors, make sure you know how to balance and neutralize the effect of the combinations you choose by using a bit of “tone on tone.”

I am also bringing this illustration to your attention for the fact that I very much like the blue buckskin shoes and have given the commission to G&G to make a pair for us as a new Limited Edition shoe.

Cheers

Michael Alden

[Manself]

What a great illustration. I'm happy about the blue shoes (although I have big feet and worry that the bigger the foot the more sober one's footwear choices need to be) but I'm really inspired by the coral coloured trousers. Any suggestions for cotton cloths that match this in a decent weight would be gratefully received.

[Jovan the Un1337]

Thank you for the writeup! This is exactly the sort of thing I look for to further my understanding of how clothes best work together.

[Costi]

Indeed, I have also been admiring this image for a long time. I'm glad your description just opens the apetite for crytical analysis - not only are the colours masterfully chosen, but the cut is consistent with the use of clothes. The ample, comfortable line of the odd jacket, together with the full cut of the trouses imparts an air of casual elegance that is unachievable with the modern "body suit" look, where the jacket clings to the wearer's torso and the stove pipe trousers sit below the hips.
The clever use of a round neck cotton sweater introduces a pattern and colour combination that is unavailable in shirts. Finally, what makes the ensemble work together is the accessories: the casually knotted and tucked in scarf that puts something between the bare backneck and the coat's collar, the pocket square, the rougly textured straw hat with its Pugaree band. And if you like, even the pipe...
Is it smart? Is it chic? Whateve it is, this is one of the best inspired AA/Esq casual wear drawings. It is so well inspired that I wonder whether this was a case of reporting or inventing...

[alden]

The ample, comfortable line of the odd jacket, together with the full cut of the trouses imparts an air of casual elegance that is unachievable with the modern "body suit" look, where the jacket clings to the wearer's torso and the stove pipe trousers sit below the hips.

The peach coat shows a 1940s American version of drape with the more extended shoulder. It’s not my favorite look but it is soft as you say nonetheless. Not only are the trousers cut fully but they are high waisted and probably arrive to within a few centimeters of the buttoning point of the coat. This produces a cascading, flowing continuum that adds to the elegance of the overall line.

The proponents of the low cut stove pipes, as exemplified by the current Neapolitan fad, wear their trousers nearly a foot below the buttoning point and this creates a gaping open space between button point and waistband where the shirt and bottom of the tie spring forth in all manner of disarray. Not only does this foot long hole look unkempt, it also interrupts, cleaves and shortens the line. So much great tailoring wasted for the lack of style.

Finally, what makes the ensemble work together is the accessories

As often is the case.

The cotton jumper is great. Probably just a bit too much similarity of color between scarf, pocket square and hatband but it works to complete the tone on tone effect.

Is it smart? Is it chic? Whatever it is, this is one of the best inspired AA/Esq casual wear drawings.

My chic-o-meter registers, but it is also very smart.

We will have to look to the Italians to find that shade of coral for trousers. I am seeing my tailor next week to fit the Donegal Polo and will take a look at the Zegna books.

Cheers

M Alden

[Richard3]

I have a pair of chinos in a very similar colour. Thanks for sharing the picture as I never quite knew how to properly combine the trousers.

[boxcar]

The old esky illustrations are very informative. They say more than a photo.

[uppercase]

The proponents of the low cut stove pipes, as exemplified by the current Neapolitan fad, wear their trousers nearly a foot below the buttoning point and this creates a gaping open space between button point and waistband where the shirt and bottom of the tie spring forth in all manner of disarray. Not only does this foot long hole look unkempt, it also interrupts, cleaves and shortens the line. So much great tailoring wasted for the lack of style.



Cheers

M Alden

I now have to agree with this assessment.

The Italian tailors in general cut a low rise trouser and it is really a bit of a struggle to have them make a long rise. The English however use the higher rise by default. That's not to say that the Italians cannot cut a high rise, full trouser but the client has to be first convinced of the comfort and elegance of this style, and then instruct his tailor accordingly.

I was a proponent of the narrower, shorter Neapolitan trouser style but have recently come around to the need for comfort in a trouser and this leads me to now prefer a full cut throughout plus allowance for ample room in the waist, achieved through full, deep pleats, needed when sitting down. And I don't mind wearing a narrower, slimmer coat with fuller cut trousers; I don't think that the proportions of the coat and trousers need match when wearing a sports coat.

Having said that I will see occassionally in London for example quite slim bespoke trousers and this silhouette still appears very elegant, perhaps more so than a full cut trouser, for a city suit.