Bespoke shirt (Massatelier Fasan, Berlin) - please comment!

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

Jovan the Un1337
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Tue Jul 21, 2009 7:23 pm

Why the hate against close fitting shirts? There is a difference between well-fitting and tight, I agree. However, RTW full cut shirts simply do not look good or flatter me, primarily because the ones of today are even larger than the ones of yesterday! Astaire's is not equivalent to the fit of a modern Brooks Brothers shirt on me. It simply looks like a parachute.



Whereas a MTM shirt...

Image

Or just a RTW with the body and sleeves taken in...

Image

Produces a much more desirable fit that still moves with me. (I realise my trousers are a bit low, please forgive that as these pictures are a bit old.)
BirdsOneView

Wed Jul 22, 2009 12:38 am

Those shirts look fine, Jovan. What seems crazy (and uncomfortable!) to me is getting a custom shirt that is so close-fitting that one can't button it after gaining five or ten pounds. I once witnessed another customer in a store -- a man who looked perfectly healthy and fit, mind you -- describe how he could not fit into his bespoke shirt because of weight gain.

Also I find that tapering the waist of a shirt too much actually makes the stomach look more pronounced than a straighter cut shirt would do.

Obviously it is possible to go too far the other way ... for example, Brooks Brothers' traditional cut is a few inches larger throughout the torso than I would prefer. Still, I'd rather wear that than a shirt that is too tight or too tapered.

Maxomoto - I prefer my shirts somewhat larger and looser than yours, but what concerns me most is the back of the collar not covering the stand. I have a shirt whose collar does that, and it drives me crazy. I'd ask for a larger (taller) collar on future shirts and specifically mention that issue.

I prefer longer collar points as well but that is a personal thing. It is great fun to figure out one's own preferences in such matters and see them executed.

As for the points turning in, this is a problem I've only experienced with fused collars. Have you run that shirt through a dryer? (I hang-dry mine.)
Costi
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Wed Jul 22, 2009 5:56 am

Of course the RTW full cut is not flattering, with its low armholes, bedsheet back and a set of windsleeves attached to your shoulders. I agree, your shirts are fine given your slim figure, they are not tight, Jovan. THIS is tight:
Image
You can't even afford a good laugh in a shirt like this, lest your buttons should pop. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8i360HayX_A :)
Jovan the Un1337
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Wed Jul 22, 2009 12:58 pm

Yeah, that amount of closeness is crazy, I agree. (To say nothing of the outfit in general.) But my point was that I don't think the OP's is too fitted.
Costi
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Thu Jul 23, 2009 6:23 am

Of course, Max's shirt is not TOO tight and is absolutely not extreme in this respect, but I still think a LITTLE more ease in the chest (the back doesn't look tight) and in the sleeve, together with lowering the shoulder seam (where the sleeve is attached to the body) would be an improvement to the fit and help the shirt look better, too.
Jovan, there seems to be an unusual amount of space between the buttons on your pink(ish) MTM shirt. Is it just an impression?
Jovan the Un1337
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Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 1:54 am
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Thu Jul 23, 2009 6:43 am

They make their shirts with a six button front rather than seven. I'm not sure why. From what I understand shirt makers (including Brooks) used to have six buttons on shirts when men wore their trousers higher, but they weren't spaced as wide as that.
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