Contrast collars (and cuffs?)

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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radicaldog
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Thu Jun 25, 2009 11:52 pm

With contrast (white) collar shirts the English tradition seems to prefer self cuffs, whereas the Italians tend to use contrast cuffs. Do you find the Italian tradition gaudy, or the English one imbalanced? More generally, what are your thoughts on this matter?

Relatedly, I believe that contrast collar shirts should have double cuffs. I'm not sure about my reason for this belief, though (perhaps something to do with the more old fashioned look of a contrast collar, but I'm really not sure). At any rate, am I wrong?
yachtie
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Fri Jun 26, 2009 12:57 am

In my opinion only, I've seen both versions work. From a practical standpoint, if the body cloth isn't available, you may be stuck with contrast cuffs eventually. :wink:
I'm not a fan of cufflinks so the whole double cuff issue doesn't arise for me.
shredder
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Fri Jun 26, 2009 9:33 am

I cannot warm to the idea of attached collar (and cuff) being white in contrast to the body. I am fine with detachable collar (and cuff) being white, however. Not sure why, but it may have something to do with having seen too many wearing the former in conjunction with a fake tan. However, I do have a couple of old checked shirts for which I had my shirtmaker replace the worn out collars and cuffs with a slightly different check pattern, the difference being more subtle than white.
radicaldog
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Fri Jun 26, 2009 4:50 pm

I'm not a fan of cufflinks either. However, years ago I got a barrel cuff shirt with contrast collar and cuffs made, and in the end it just looked wrong without double cuffs. So now I'm resigned to cufflinks if I want a contrast collar.
radicaldog
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Fri Jun 26, 2009 4:51 pm

radicaldog wrote:I'm not a fan of cufflinks either. However, years ago I got a barrel cuff shirt with contrast collar and cuffs made, and in the end it just looked wrong without double cuffs. So now I'm resigned to cufflinks if I want a contrast collar.
Would you wear a contrast collar shirt with detachable collar with anything other than formal morning dress?
Lance
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Mon Jun 29, 2009 1:00 am

I remember my first shirt with white contrasting collar and cuffs from Brooks Brothers. It was a beautiful mid blue end on end with single button barrel cuffs. I loved the shirt and have never been able to find another I liked as well.
carl browne
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Wed Jul 15, 2009 11:13 pm

In "Diamonds are Forever," Sean Connery suggested to Jill St. John that he preferred matching collars and cuffs.

But I'm not entirely certain he was talking about shirts.
Bishop of Briggs
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Thu Jul 16, 2009 9:17 am

radicaldog wrote:With contrast (white) collar shirts the English tradition seems to prefer self cuffs, whereas the Italians tend to use contrast cuffs. Do you find the Italian tradition gaudy, or the English one imbalanced? More generally, what are your thoughts on this matter?

Relatedly, I believe that contrast collar shirts should have double cuffs. I'm not sure about my reason for this belief, though (perhaps something to do with the more old fashioned look of a contrast collar, but I'm really not sure). At any rate, am I wrong?
I cannot agree. Contrast collars and cuffs are popular again in Britain and are readily available in T&A, H&K, H&H and other stores. The Italians tend to prefer light blue shirts with button cuffs. I also perceive an Italian preference for knitted ties, also (going by the large numbers in Jermyn Street stores) becoming fashionable in London again.
Lance
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Thu Jul 16, 2009 11:40 am

I think much has to do with the material, finish and color. The shirt in a darker shade and/or with a hard finish, stiff collar and French cuffs is reminiscent of Wall Street excess and flash. The shirt I referred to earlier in this thread was of a softer, medium/light blue end on end fabric with broadcloth collar and cuffs. The collar had a medium spread and the barrel cuffs were a bit shorter than regular cuffs. The broadcloth collar and cuffs had the softness of a favorite shirt which had not yet begun to fray but were on the verge.
Cufflink79
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Thu Jul 16, 2009 1:44 pm

Here are simple rules for contrast collar and cuffed shirts.

First of all only wear them with a suit or blazer, never with a sport jacket.

I wear cuff links whenever possible, so a barrel cuff to me doesn't fit in with contrasted collar and cuffed shits. If you are going to wear barrel cuffs with a contrasted collar, the cuffs should be the same as the body.

Here is a break down of how I'd have the shirts made.

Colored or pattered shirt, white collar, white double cuff, or self double cuff.

Colored or pattered shirt, white collar, self barrel cuff.

Best Regards,

Cufflink79
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