Manolo Blahnik's A&S DB suits

[alden]

Dear Degendorf

Thanks for the picture. Is there a way to zoom in for a closeup? I would like to see the cloth of the suit.

Those who posted pics of this man sitting down, did so with the goal of having a bit of fun and not with any serious analysis in mind.

But speaking of sitting down, which fellow looks better, more comfortable and more elegant to you?



Cheers

M Alden

[Richard3]

I don't know what film this is from but given the hat style it looks like early 40s.

No, the film was actually made 10 years before. The shot seems to show a scene from Lubitsch`s Design for living (1933).

[alden]

No, the film was actually made 10 years before. The shot seems to show a scene from Lubitsch`s Design for living (1933).

That makes more sense given the style (drape) of the coats.

Cheers

Michael

[Costi]

But speaking of sitting down, which fellow looks better, more comfortable and more elegant to you?



Cheers

M Alden

Rhetorical question... Who is the other one?

[yachtie]

I'll take the contrarian view. I don't think drape looks good and do not prefer the A&S cut. My jackets follow more the Dege/Huntsman look (at least I hope so). Not for everyone, but I like it and it works for me.

BTW people come up to talk to me at parties all the time.

[shredder]

I'll take the contrarian view. I don't think drape looks good and do not prefer the A&S cut. My jackets follow more the Dege/Huntsman look (at least I hope so). Not for everyone, but I like it and it works for me.

BTW people come up to talk to me at parties all the time.

I personally prefer a firm shoulder and clean chest as well; my cutter is ex-Dege. That said, I would hesitate making a generalisation about drape. Or about the hard coat either. I think that neither is right for everyone. Each, I think, suits certain body types but not others. I look at Gary Cooper and Rudolph Valentino and can be tempted except I'm not sure whether I can pull it off. Jeremy Irons can pull it off but will probably look a bit awkward in a Richard Anderson jacket. On the other hand, I do not think MB, as much as I find him charming, is the ideal poster boy for drape.

[alebrady]

I personally prefer a firm shoulder and clean chest as well; my cutter is ex-Dege. That said, I would hesitate making a generalisation about drape. Or about the hard coat either. I think that neither is right for everyone. Each, I think, suits certain body types but not others. I look at Gary Cooper and Rudolph Valentino and can be tempted except I'm not sure whether I can pull it off. Jeremy Irons can pull it off but will probably look a bit awkward in a Richard Anderson jacket. On the other hand, I do not think MB, as much as I find him charming, is the ideal poster boy for drape.

interesting, what physical traits do you (or others here) think best showcases the A&S Drape. I always thought one of the appealing aspects of the cut was just how 'democratic' it was - not favoring any one particular build.

[yachtie]

I personally prefer a firm shoulder and clean chest as well; my cutter is ex-Dege. That said, I would hesitate making a generalisation about drape. Or about the hard coat either. I think that neither is right for everyone. Each, I think, suits certain body types but not others. I look at Gary Cooper and Rudolph Valentino and can be tempted except I'm not sure whether I can pull it off. Jeremy Irons can pull it off but will probably look a bit awkward in a Richard Anderson jacket. On the other hand, I do not think MB, as much as I find him charming, is the ideal poster boy for drape.

interesting, what physical traits do you (or others here) think best showcases the A&S Drape. I always thought one of the appealing aspects of the cut was just how 'democratic' it was - not favoring any one particular build.

I wouldn't call it any more "democratic" than a structured "clean" coat. It's just what fits your style. I'm loose enough naturally without requiring my clothes to convey that for me.

[shredder]

interesting, what physical traits do you (or others here) think best showcases the A&S Drape. I always thought one of the appealing aspects of the cut was just how 'democratic' it was - not favoring any one particular build.

Now, there's a challenge. I am not sure whether I could adequately articulate the sorts of body (or personality) types that would suit (no pun intended) the A&S drape. However, one example of the sort that I think is wrong for the drape is a friend's father. He has a slight build and a slightly forward leaning posture. Not hunchback but nonetheless his narrow shoulders lean forward a bit. A bit like a posture of a tired old man. He is not exactly young any more, but his posture hasn't changed since I first met him decades ago. He is neither tall nor short and certainly not athletic looking. His head appears slightly large in proportion although that impression may be because of the hair rather than the actual size of his head.

He is a Richard Anderson customer. Prior to RA being established, he was a Huntsman customer. The firm coat certainly does not correct his posture but compensates for it as well as for his boy-ish chest. It gives him a stronger, more dignified appearance that is much more in line with his vivacious personality. I would surmise that he would just look like a tired old man with a huge head in A&S.

A common criticism about drape is that it makes the owner look fat. I do not think this is necessarily true. I have seen it work beautifully on a very round man albeit I admit that it might just be a non-issue with him. It can work rather well on a very athletic man, making him appear less imposing while still clearly projecting his athletic physique. I think it gets tricky when the man is neither fit nor round, just a bit tubby.

Anyway, this is at best just a rambling of an amateur. The Doctor is an A&S alum as well as a Sexton alum, so I should think that he is in a unique position to provide some expert insight. Edwin, help!!

[Manself]

I recently discussed the issue of soft vs hard tailoring with a tailor who can do both (I blog about clothes for the UK edition of Esquire, where I work).
I think the last question I put to the tailor is interesting:
http://www.esquire.co.uk/2009/05/the-be ... he-tailor/

[manton]

Interesting, I had assumed that Brian Russell's business had simply closed after his death.

[Frog in Suit]

Am I wrong in thinking that Ms Aoun is also "Tom Brown", the London branch of the Eton firm? Both Brian Russell and Tom Brown reside above my own tailors, at 6 Sackville Street.

Frog in Suit

[JRLT]

Out of interest Manself, was the suit made for you by Ms Aoun in the "soft" or "hard" style? If you can vouch for her skill in the soft style then I may pay her a visit. It's a style that I'm keen to re-try (so far I've only bespoken a suit from S. Hitchcock with mixed results) but I'm reluctant to experiment with Rubinacci at £4k a suit or, for the present, with A&S who are by no means universally well-recieved on this board.