Last Chance to Change My DJ

[alden]

DDM

It used to be that white or ivory DJs were to be worn only in the tropics. I will have to defer to our other resident researcher in paleo-vestimentary notions, Mr. NJS, a resident of the tropics, to confirm same. In any case Virginia, at its last googling, remains a few miles from the magical green belt known as the equator.

In the SE corner of Sicily, I expect to be able to offer a compelling argument for the wearing of a white DJ (given the blazing +45 C in summer) and so I am thinking of having one made in linen, unlined, self facing, with the 4x1 configuration shown in the illustration above.

Cheers

Michael

[storeynicholas]

I think that 4X1 works nicely on a DB dinner jacket-tuxedo, whether with a shawl or peaked collar/lapels - it gives the lapels extra roll and substance. I have this on a midnight blue wool barathea DJ (can't remember the weight - maybe 13oz). But it is a personal detail. A one button or link-button, single-breasted shawl is good too. So far as ivory DJs go - if you've got the heat and the mind to it, why not go for it? Life is too serious, sometimes - just think 'Bogart in (sub-tropical) Casablanca' (4X1 DB ivory shawl) - although he had many of them - indeed, in the scene in which he says the famous line "Of all the gin joints, in all the towns, in all the world, she walks into mine.." he was in a different one at the beginning from at the end - watch the cuff buttons! I think too that matching lapel-facings is more usual on a DJ - so blue with blue and black with black. There used to be a thing about black facings (and, maybe velvet collar), on a midnight blue dress coat but I don't think that contrasting facings carries over very well to DJs. On the ivory version I believe that self-cloth is usual and, recently, I read that gabardine was once much favoured for the ivory DJs. MA you came back as I was posting - I am sure that you are right about the tropical DJ - but, these days, as long as the heat is there, I am sure that it isn't going to raise too many eyebrows. They don't really 'do' in England, do they - my parents had the heating on in June! Linen sounds a nice choice. STOP PRESS - I see that Etutee has logged in - and I seem to recall that he posted up some slightly darker than ivory versions of the tropical DJ once.
All sounds good.
Best,
NJS

[Despos]

I may be the lone dissident here but if I was getting one DJ for the long haul it would not be a shawl. My game plan would be SB PL with a vest. Later down the road I would get a DB shawl.

The pictures in your post are light/white jackets. Shawls are great for that but not your lone DJ. It is my personal perception but I don't see shawls as my mainstay DJ or as formal as peaks. For the record I have two DB shawls but both cloths have a pattern in them and are worn with solid trousers. I'll have a DB shawl in the future but not in lieu of a SB PL.

[manton]

I love the 3 piece SB peak in the abstract, but in real life, on me, I fear it would be a bit much. Also, I think it would look best with a wing collar shirt, which only adds to the "bit much" factor. I don't like the way SB peak looks with a turndown collar nearly as much as DB. And I don't know where to get one. Budd?

Also, I don't like cummerbunds, and there is no way I would wear vest in warm weather. And, cheapskate that I am, I don't want to pay for a vest. This bloody thing is going to be expensive enough as it is.

So DB it must be. As for shawl, I just like the way the look and like the "formal wear only" character of that detail.

[Despos]

DB with peaks, then shawl.

[alden]

DB with peaks, then shawl.

This is excellent advice, but it means having two DJs made to get to the very chic DB shawl.

In Europe, these days, the DB shawl can be worn interchangeably with the DB peak. Is it different in the States?

Cheers

Michael

[storeynicholas]

Is there a difference between the occasions on which one would necessarily wear a DB peaked instead of a DB shawl?

[tazmaniac]

Extremely sorry to hijack this thread, but I am currently in the process of having a 3pc DJ made up from the Smiths 8829. I chose black facings from a material my tailor refers to as a "split ottoman". There would have been midnight grosgrain, but it wasn't clear if it would match the cloth, which is indeed nearly black, and, furthermore, the braid for the trousers is only available in black.

What I meant to ask is if it would be entirely unreasonable to cover the shawl lapels of the waistcoat in the "split ottoman? I kind of like the idea, but maybe self-lapels are better?

[manton]

I would absolutely not do self lapels on a black or midnight DJ. Self is fine for a light color summer/resort DJ, but it lowers the dark urban DJ into the "suit" category.

[tazmaniac]

I meant the shawl lapels of the waistcoat. My tailor suggests it, but I am unsure. I know you are going to say no, Manton...

Are you familiar with "split ottoman"? It is a heavy corded silk, with some "ridges" more pronounced than others in a regular striped pattern. My tailor says it is very traditional.

[manton]

Oh. Actutally, I don't think self would look bad on the waistcoat.

[tazmaniac]

I meant my tailor suggests silk (ottoman) for the waistcoat lapels, I know you prefer self, I am unsure... Opinions?

[manton]

You mean he wants a different facing on the vest than on the coat? I would not do that. Either they match, or self on the vest.

[Despos]

Is there a difference between the occasions on which one would necessarily wear a DB peaked instead of a DB shawl?

Only in my own mind, not historically to my knowledge.
From L. Fellowes and Spy illustrations from the past I see shawls in environments of cruises and resorts. Not exclusively but generally. Shawls just don't have the edge that a peak does for dress clothes to my eye. A parallel would be how a notch lapel SB DJ is less than a SB PL.
I like shawl DJ's and can grasp the DJ only application but as it relates to Manton it is a non issue. He does not care for SB PL on his body type and the accessories to accompany it so he is making his choice on his own criteria. That works for me.

[tazmaniac]

A series of misunderstandings... I meant matching silk ottoman on the waistcoat lapels and on the jacket lapels. That is what my tailor suggests.