Questions on Mohair

[manton]

A mix of English and Italian. I like the English stuff better, though it is a bit heavier. (You of course will like that, but it is 96 here today!) Mostly solids, grays, blues, olives, etc. Some stripes (not many). I can't remember the weight of the top of my head, but I think there was nothing more than 10 oz.

[richardcharles]

Michael, it depends on one day it could be Italian the next english. George has an interesting business. On one hand he serves as a traditional merchant selling the like of Charles Clayton & edwin Woodhouse in standard collection format and on the other he goes to clothiers and mills the like and buys excess cloth and sample yardage that has not been used. I can tell you that there is no mohair in the running line as there is very liitle mainstream demand for the typical clients that he has. There are the opportunites to spot mohair as they arrive with his most recent trips purchases. They are as likely to come from either country. By the way isn't mainstream a lousy word.

[Mark Seitelman]

Manton, thanks for the invite.

We should organize a class trip to Tip Top or Singers for a weekend.

[manton]

richardcharles: a friend of mine went to Tip-top only a few weeks ago, and brought back cuttings of at least 15 mohairs that they had in stock. Are they all gone already?

[richardcharles]

manton, they may well still be there. They are howver the bounty of his trips and not somthing you can go back 6 months from now and get. You can get his supported ranges with a high degree of continuity. While Andy & peter are great guys you miss somthing when George is not in as he has intimate knowledge of the origin of all goodsl Lets plan a trip.

[T4phage]

I'm considering a Holland and Sherry wool/mohair blend, about 60/40 I think. It's a dark navy, but lighter than midnight blue. It feels like a good way to buy something with classic appeal, while staying chic. Navy worsted, at this point it my life, still feels too conservative and too "safe" for me.....

Hi Eden, I know the fabric of which you speak. I like the hand and the very subtle sheen of the fabric. I fear however, that the lustre of the mohair is a bit lost in navy since both the warp and weft are the same colour. I will be personally purchasing a length in an "avion" blue grey (#333105), it is beautiful.

Below are a few swatches from Holland and Sherry's Crispaire book (wool/mohair blend). Again, pictures courtesy of my assistant:

[Mark Seitelman]

I see that these samples are 70% wool and 30% mohair.

What are the advantages of this blend versus the 60% mohair and 40% wool?

[manton]

I went to Tip-Top yesterday. They had only one mohair left. Thankfully, it was one of the ones I wanted: made in England, 60% mohair, 40% wool, great "guts". Probably 8 or 9 ounces; they weren't sure. Slate blue. $40 per yard. I bought four yards. It will eventually become a 2-piece suit, SB notch, probably 3-button with a "2 1/2" button stance. Patch pockets, unlined, with turned seams. Belted trousers with reverse pleats (which I think works nicely with belts, though I always get forward pleats on brace trousers).

[alden]

By slate blue do you mean something like the 333105 above, or a darker blue gray?
The suit project sounds right for the cloth choice.

[manton]

"Bluer" than the 333105. Maybe slate blue is the wrong name for the color, but I have always heard it described that way.

[alden]

Its called RAF blue over here...or Avion in Italy. Good choice.

[RWS]

. . . . [M]ade in England, 60% mohair, 40% wool, great "guts". Probably 8 or 9 ounces . . . . Slate blue. $40 per yard. I bought four yards. It will eventually become a 2-piece suit, SB notch, probably 3-button with a "2 1/2" button stance. Patch pockets, unlined, with turned seams. Belted trousers with reverse pleats . . . .

Splendid, Manton! I must admit that I'm envious (though, at a distance of several thousand miles and in another season, I can't do a thing about it).

[pemazel]

http://www.williamhalstead.co.uk

One L less than suggested by mr Alden.

Paul

[alden]

I am afraid you are confusing me wiith someone else. Not to worry, the important thing to know is that Peter Halstead is an excellent weaver.

Cheers

[pemazel]

Mr Alden,

You are right: I confused you with Mr richardcharles. Still an interesting, though outdated, website.

Paul