Hats - true bespoke

[Pelham]

Are there any hatters left anywhere, and I mean anywhere in the world, who offer a fully customisable and bespoke service? Measurements taken precisely for the customer's head, materials chosen by the customer from a vast range of options, all the dimensions and stylistic details chosen by the customer, and the entire product 100% hand-made?

From what I've been able to gather, the answer to that is "no". Or am I wrong?

I've heard about this 'conformateur' device that James Lock uses for their custom service. It sounds good, but how many of the other details of the hat can be dictated by their customers? Do they only produce the basic models that are on offer on their website? (Also, it seems odd that there isn't any mention of their custom service on their website...)

I'd be grateful for some clarification, thanks.

P.

[Jordan Marc]

Pelham:

Yes, there are two marvelous bespoke hatters. The first is Graham Thompson. Google Optimo Hats, Chicago. Aside from his loyal customers, Thompson designs hats for films, including Road to Perdition and the upcoming Dellinger with Johnny Depp. The second is Al Fawcett, who has also designed hats for films. Try Googling him by name, or try
googling The Fedora Lounge and search for him. Both hatters know how to make beautiful fedoras.

JMB

[le.gentleman]

Are there any hatters left anywhere, and I mean anywhere in the world, who offer a fully customisable and bespoke service? Measurements taken precisely for the customer's head, materials chosen by the customer from a vast range of options, all the dimensions and stylistic details chosen by the customer, and the entire product 100% hand-made?

From what I've been able to gather, the answer to that is "no". Or am I wrong?

I've heard about this 'conformateur' device that James Lock uses for their custom service. It sounds good, but how many of the other details of the hat can be dictated by their customers? Do they only produce the basic models that are on offer on their website? (Also, it seems odd that there isn't any mention of their custom service on their website...)

I'd be grateful for some clarification, thanks.

P.

Pelham,

Most of the conformateurs left are french made and it's hard to find them anymore. This tool only helps to determine the exact shape and size of the head.

In Germany, I know one bespoke hat maker - Diter Beermann from Hamburg. He his a 5th generation hatmaker and in his store you can find about 20,000 hats. However, he also offers a full bespoke service for men and women hats. You can specify everything you want and they are absolutely willing to do it. Clients from allover the world travel to Hamburg in order to get bespoke hats made there.
Recently, I had a chance to visit his store and it was quite impressive. Other than that, I have to say that he is very knowledgeable and passionate about his work. Now his daughter wants to continue the business which was founded in 1856.
In the heydays, they had 5 hat stores across Hamburg. Today, there is just one store left. Luckily, the premises are family owned and hence chances are they will stay in business for the foreseeable future.

His homepage can be found here:

http://www.hut-atelier.de/

That's him:

[alden]

Are there any hatters left anywhere, and I mean anywhere in the world, who offer a fully customisable and bespoke service? Measurements taken precisely for the customer's head, materials chosen by the customer from a vast range of options, all the dimensions and stylistic details chosen by the customer, and the entire product 100% hand-made?

This is a timely question as last week I was meeting with an artisan who has made bespoke hats all his life and still makes them the way they should be made.

We are at work on an Alden design hat to be made available via theclothclub and we hope to do visits to London (with a conformateur in tow) to make the Alden design or other hats for LL members. Stay tuned.

Cheers

Michael Alden

[storeynicholas]

There's this one:

http://www.pateyhats.com/

James Lock do not pretend to make bespoke hats. They did make them before.
NJS

[Costi]

I thought the conformateur was only used for hard hats, because they need to follow the head's contour exactly. Soft hats will conform to the head anyway if he size is right.
The LL hat idea sounds good! I look forward to hearing more.

[dopey]

I thought the conformateur was only used for hard hats, because they need to follow the head's contour exactly. Soft hats will conform to the head anyway if he size is right.
The LL hat idea sounds good! I look forward to hearing more.

This is more or less true, though a conformateur is still useful for getting not only size, but also general head shape correct, e.g., round, regular oval, long oval.

I have used both Art Fawcett and Optimo and can recommend them as providing excellent service, though I have not commissioned either to produce a bespoke felt hat from scratch.; Fawcett has done Panamas for me and Optimo has reconditioned vintage felt.

[Jordan Marc]

Pelham & Everyone Elso Who Loves Fedoras:

To get a good idea of the bespoke fedoras made by the two American hatters I mentioned earlier, go to the following via Google:

www.optimohats.com
This is the artistry of Graham Thompson. His shop is on the far southside of Chicago. Gr-reat hatter!

Art Fawcett hats.
This is the artistry of Art Fawcett. He hails from Butte Falls, Oregon.
Gr-reat hatter! Here's an example of his work, a vintage-style fedora
with a centre crease, straight crown front and back, and a properly proportioned grosgrain ribbon-n-bow. Pure Warner Brothers gangster
hat!




Peruse both sites extensively, not only to see examples of the hatters' work but also to get contact information.

Worth & Worth in New York City used to be considered quite good.
I'm referring to the 'new' Worth & Worth, not the original store that was
legendary for covering heads beautifully. The new incarnation is just
so-so. A bit of a disappointment.

JMB

[Pelham]

Well, I'm glad to learn that I was wrong. Perhaps I'll visit some of these bespoke hatters in the future.

My second question remains unanswered, though. Even if James Lock are not true bespoke, can you commission a hat from them that is of a style of your own choosing, or do they only produce the models on display at their site and storefront?

[alden]

Even if James Lock are not true bespoke, can you commission a hat from them that is of a style of your own choosing, or do they only produce the models on display at their site and storefront?

I am of the impression that you will be obliged to choose from the models they have on display. You might be able to order a color felt if they have it. Lock can also block and shape the hat the way you want but I am pretty sure they do not do one off custom orders.

Cheers

Michael

[alden]

Pelham’s request for a custom hat mirrors my own wish to render in felt a style that does not exist in RTW. There are so many things to be admired in the collection of trilbys and fedoras on the market, though there is something either missing or just a bit off in each of them. That reality, along with the pending closing of Bates, has got the creative juices flowing. Namely, I am in the process of designing an Alden felt hat.

The LLHat01 will be a trilby that feels at home at the races or in town. The design actually pulls a number of things I like about my all my hats and eliminates the things nagging to be changed.

The hat will be made available in a variety of colors and a choice of either rabbit or beaver felt. Stay tuned….

Cheers

Michael Alden

[storeynicholas]

Even if James Lock are not true bespoke, can you commission a hat from them that is of a style of your own choosing, or do they only produce the models on display at their site and storefront?

I am of the impression that you will be obliged to choose from the models they have on display. You might be able to order a color felt if they have it. Lock can also block and shape the hat the way you want but I am pretty sure they do not do one off custom orders.

Cheers

Michael

They do take ordcers but they are actually made by Patey.
NJS

[alden]

They do take ordcers but they are actually made by Patey.

NJS,

I was under the impression that Patey only does Cokes, equestrian, Polo etc hard hats. They do not do Fedoras or felts bespoke. Is this not the case?

Michael

[storeynicholas]

They do take ordcers but they are actually made by Patey.

NJS,

I was under the impression that Patey only does Cokes, equestrian, Polo etc hard hats. They do not do Fedoras or felts bespoke. Is this not the case?

Michael

They are especially noted for hard hats - but will undertake anything. I am not sure of the price for a bespoke modern felt hat but in April 2006 the price for a full dress naval cocked hat (including bullion) was £500.00. They say that they will undertake virtually any commission for theatrical productions, so a fedora couldn't be beyond them. - although I have not made a specific inquiry.
NJS

[Charlie Huang]

Patey's ceremonial and hard hats take months to make with all the processes of layering involved and hence it costs a lot. I think if they did soft felt, it would be cheaper but since they don't seem to make soft felt hats (much), there would likely be a hefty surcharge in it...