Frock coat vs. Lounge suit - The American factor

[storeynicholas]

Both Frog in Suit’s and Costi’s point are quite reasonable. The latter, however, proves to reveal a further similarity between the culture of umbrellas and the culture of fencing. What Costi affirms with regard to the transportation of an umbrella is quite similar to what Lord Chesterfield argues, in one his letters to his son, in relation to the possible troubles ensuing from one's carrying a sword:

“When an awkward fellow first comes into a room, it is highly probable that his swords gets between his legs, and throws him down, or makes him stumble, at least...” (July 25, 1741)

Maybe this is the origin of the expression: A*se over tip.
NJS

[RWS]

For what it's worth: if I am strolling on good pavement in daylight, I "walk" the furled umbrella, much as one would a stick; if I am rushed, I carry the furled umbrella with point forward (no need to jab the poor fellow behind me, even if I can't see him), much as I would a rifle on infantry patrol; and if I am ascending stairs or in a crowded place, I carry it over my crooked forearm, shaft caught between arm and trunk, just as Costi observed.

As for weaponry: I'm certain that many of us have seen sword-sticks; how many Loungers own a sword-umbrella, or a rifled umbrella? They do exist . . . and discharge more than ricin, too.

[marcelo]

[...] And women lost the culture of the parasol, too - now they bake in the sun wearing thick layers of anti-UV lotions instead [...]

Costi,

I remembered this thread today while seeing this image of the Duchess of Cornwall in the tropics.



It seems she does not like thick layers of anti-UV lotions...

Marcelo

[Costi]

Thank you, Marcelo, nice idea!
The advantage of the parasol over a straw hat in warm weather is ventilation: however porous in weave, a hat tends to make the scalp sweat anyway. On his old website I recall Mario Talarico offered parasols for men, too - large sized canopy made of white canvas on a wooden shaft. They looked quite nice.

[marcelo]

Costi,

Thanks for the hint to Mario Talarico's site, also mentioned in the thread about the mysterious umbrella in the "Anonymous Question and Answer" chapter. I must confess though that the idea of men's parasol, outside for instance of a golf club, is rather new for me. I think I would still prefer a hat.

Marcelo

[David V]

...P'erhaps the use and/or change of weapon affected the choice of clothing.

By all means, if we use the word “clothing” to refer to such sartorial accessories as umbrellas and walking sticks. Louis Philippe, future king of France, is reported to have declared, some months before his coronation, the following:

“The crown of France is too cold in the winter, too warm in summer; the sceptre is too blunt as a weapon of defence or attack, it is too short as a stick to lean upon: a good felt hat and a strong umbrella are at all times more useful.” (Cf. An Englishman in Paris: volume 1: Reign of Louis Philippe, by Dresten Vandam, p. 276).

Thus, the use of an umbrella - which a gentleman does not have the faintest intention of ever having to open – became a sort of symbolic substitute for a weapon, an item allusive to the idea of power. Yet, just as riffles turned into pistols, most umbrellas, Briggs, Smithes, and Foxes notwithstanding, turned nowadays into disposable objects devoid any elegance or symbolic power.

I look at this photo and can only think: Mind your measure!

[Costi]

Costi,

Thanks for the hint to Mario Talarico's site, also mentioned in the thread about the mysterious umbrella in the "Anonymous Question and Answer" chapter. I must confess though that the idea of men's parasol, outside for instance of a golf club, is rather new for me. I think I would still prefer a hat.

Marcelo

Last summer I went to a couple of dog shows with a group of friends. As I was seated for an hour or more at a time and there was no shadow in sight, my Panama did little to protect my backneck and hands and even my white linen shirt began to heat up. Almost everyone with a little experience in this kind of events sported umbrellas. Some men had modern parasols whose large canopy resembled tin foil - probably a reflective coating of some kind. A canvas parasol on a beech shaft would have been nicer

[Pelham]

Costi,

Thanks for the hint to Mario Talarico's site, also mentioned in the thread about the mysterious umbrella in the "Anonymous Question and Answer" chapter. I must confess though that the idea of men's parasol, outside for instance of a golf club, is rather new for me. I think I would still prefer a hat.

Marcelo

Last summer I went to a couple of dog shows with a group of friends. As I was seated for an hour or more at a time and there was no shadow in sight, my Panama did little to protect my backneck and hands and even my white linen shirt began to heat up. Almost everyone with a little experience in this kind of events sported umbrellas. Some men had modern parasols whose large canopy resembled tin foil - probably a reflective coating of some kind. A canvas parasol on a beech shaft would have been nicer

I fully support this idea - why shouldn't a man make use of such a device if he's under severe sunlight for extended periods of time;; let the parasol be of a simple, masculine design, and how is it any different in principle than the use of a rain umbrella? I can already hear voices raised in protest at what might be perceived as another grotesque postmodern effeminizing of men- but that's silly. The sun umbrella is even more practical than a rain umbrella, as one's own well-being is at stake rather than the dryness of one's clothes. It's ridiculous to suppose that potentially life-threatening exposure to UV is something a man should just soak up, in a civilized environment - one of the hallmarks of civilized life is that men and women don't have to live at the mercy of the elements - this isn't the taming of the American West, is it? Of course, if one actually prefers heatstroke, sunburn, and discomfort, that's their own business...

I noticed that James Smith sells some men's parasols - http://www.james-smith.co.uk/acatalog/S ... rllas.html - (scroll down to the third and fourth offerings) - and I've every intention of getting one!

(I anticipate that some random troglodytes might chuckle when I use it on vacation, but I expect that I'll be too comfortable to care )

P.

[marcelo]

I had expected the objection. One can hardly deny that a parasol can be quite helpful, whether in a golf club – as I had suggested in my previous post – or in a dog show. Men are no less vulnerable to the elements than women are. Nonetheless, while it seems appropriate for the Duchess of Cornwall to don a parasol outside of those circumstances in which a man might don one, I have the impression that a parasol in the hands of Prince Charles in the image above would be rather sartorially out of place; it might by all means provide him with a protection against UV, but it seems it would not complete his outfit in the same way the Duchess’ parasol completes hers.

[storeynicholas]

His outfit is amazing - overheated in the pressing, the canvas is noticeably stuck to the coat and there is an astonishing crease in the right sleeve,
NJS

[alden]

and there is an astonishing crease in the right sleeve,

The coat does not look like an A&S, but the crease does. I am not sure if it is an A&S trademark, but their coats sleeves are all pressed with a crease.

Cheers

M Alden

[marcelo]

His outfit is amazing - overheated in the pressing, the canvas is noticeably stuck to the coat and there is an astonishing crease in the right sleeve,
NJS

Indeed, but if he had reached for a parasol would the crease in the right sleeve have been avoided?

Women have far more opportunities to make use of a parasol than men do. In the image bellow – it seems to me – the gentleman might be wearing a hat, but a parasol, in whatever style, would be out of place; it would not suit him in the same way it suits the young lady.



How many gentlemen have a parasol in these images?

[NES]

there is an astonishing crease in the right sleeve,

I too have wondered about those creases. Is there, also, a pleat?

[NES]

Women have far more opportunities to make use of a parasol than men do. In the image bellow – it seems to me – the gentleman might be wearing a hat, but a parasol, in whatever style, would be out of place; it would not suit him in the same way it suits the young lady.

We must remember that the parasol is, originaly, a very powerful status symbol.

Therefore, we must deal with it very carefully.

Notice that women only carry very small parasols, and men - when they do - only very big ones and only in very informal situations. Also, the images depicting men and women are obviously seduction scenes, in which the ironic inversion of power relations is within a tradition.

[Pelham]

Marcelo and NES - between the two of you, you've said as much as I would have said. Regular use of a parasol in all circumstances was only ever for the ladies and I wouldn't change that, I only meant to say that in situations where the heat and exposure is prolonged and severe, it seems daft for someone to not have one, man or woman.