Two jackets in process for me in LL fabrics

[ottovbvs]

Bill

Here is a 20 ozs cashmere fitting in the same soft style.



Cheers

Michael Alden

One is always finding new stuff here to admire. This jacket looks superb Michael, really outstanding. I've pulled off a print and put in my to do file.

[voxsartoria]

The word that comes to mind when I look at the gray DB is regal and I have a hard time reconciling this impression with either portly or frumpy.

Cheers

M Alden

Here is the finished DB suit:





- B

[jb]

Vox,

That finished DB is great. Chris Despos just finished a pair of light gray Minnis flannel trousers for me, and in the back of my mind I keep thinking that they need to become part of a suit. This photo may well push me over the edge!

Cheers,
Joel

[voxsartoria]

Vox,

That finished DB is great. Chris Despos just finished a pair of light gray Minnis flannel trousers for me, and in the back of my mind I keep thinking that they need to become part of a suit. This photo may well push me over the edge!

Cheers,
Joel

Thank you, J.

Here is the completed gun club:









- B

[uppercase]

Vox, you should be very happy.

Really exquisite tailoring, DeBoise did an outstanding job for you.

The choice of cloth is fabulous and you've put it all together in a very elegant way.

Here are the benefits of working with a talented tailor, over a long period, choosing the best, classic cloth and wearing it all with style.

Great stuff!

[voxsartoria]

Vox, you should be very happy.

Really exquisite tailoring, DeBoise did an outstanding job for you.

The choice of cloth is fabulous and you've put it all together in a very elegant way.

Here are the benefits of working with a talented tailor, over a long period, choosing the best, classic cloth and wearing it all with style.

Great stuff!

I'm glad that you like it, UC...I do, too.

The fabric is great...quite comfortable despite the nominal weight.


- B

[pichao]

That is among the best tailoring I have ever seen.

[voxsartoria]

That is among the best tailoring I have ever seen.

Thank you.


- B

[Doug]

I add my admiration for some wonderful stuff. It has inspired me to order something from Steed this spring, after I get back to my normal weight.

I am particularly anxious to see Vox' final 3-piece with DB vest.

I was struck by the comparison between the forward fitting picture and the finished picture--or rather, by the different impressions created, it seems to be me, by the differing angles at which the photos were taken and the effect of having the arms at the side in the forward fitting and the arms a bit extended in the later photo. Most of Vox' photos seem to be taken from just above waist height. The forward finish photos were taken at about neck height.

The forward fitting photo, taken from an angle much closer to that at which the jacket would ordinarily be seen, emphasizes the chest vs. the hips when compared to the later photo taken from the lower angle. The forward fitting photo also gave me the impression of a bit more belly and upsweep to the lapels.

I go the impression of much less drape and fullness in the chest than I have in my A&S DB and that I have seen in other A&S DBs. Am I right in thinking Deboise is using less drape and fullness here?

[voxsartoria]

I add my admiration for some wonderful stuff.

I go the impression of much less drape and fullness in the chest than I have in my A&S DB and that I have seen in other A&S DBs. Am I right in thinking Deboise is using less drape and fullness here?

Thank you.

I still wear a draped jacket from Edwin since that is one of several key attributes that i sought out when I picked Steed many years ago. It is true that the two silhouettes on which we settled over the years...one without a front cut (like the gun club) and the other with (like the flannel DB) are both on the leanest side of drape, and with more of a swelled chest than you will typically find from A&S.

It is this capacity to work out something specially for me, and to deviate a bit from the A&S house style, that has been a primary r eason why I have been so pleased, and that will keep me Edwin's customer for as long as he chooses to ply his craft.

Plus, he's a great guy.

We are all fortunate that we still live in a time of tailoring choice: not every style is right for every man, nor is every tailor right for every client. It helps to know yourself a bit so that the making of a new garment reflects your will and taste as well as the tailor's flair and craftstmanship.


- B

[Cary Grant]

Been meaning to ask, Bill- do you go across for all your fittings or work when he's in NYC?

[voxsartoria]

Been meaning to ask, Bill- do you go across for all your fittings or work when he's in NYC?

For the first two or three years, I would see Edwin in NYC. But, to my good fortune, for awhile now, Boston has been a part of his quarterly visits to America, and that makes him exceptionally convenient for me. He might as well have a shop here.

- B

[Costi]

These pictures prove that the early comments during the fitting phases were hasty impressions. The gunclub's fit is remarkable given its particular cut. The flannel DB has good proportions and I like the way the tall turnups work on your trousers (the length is spot on).

[Gruto]

I would like a coat like that one day. It just looks great. The grey DB is very fine too, but it seems a tad tighter?

[alden]

We are all fortunate that we still live in a time of tailoring choice: not every style is right for every man, nor is every tailor right for every client. It helps to know yourself a bit so that the making of a new garment reflects your will and taste as well as the tailor's flair and craftsmanship.

A very good resume of the keys to success in bespoke are to be found here.

Vox,

I see a very fine coat indeed. Once again Edwin has done honor to a piece of LL cloth and that pleases me greatly. I notice that while you have kept the front of the coat clean there is a bit of back drape (or is it just the photo?)

I like a measure of back drape in my coats. For those of you who are nervous about drape and it's attendant pleats, you might want to keep the front clean and give yourself a bit of ease in the back as shown in Vox's photo above.

Cheers

M Alden