Questions on Mohair

[Mark Seitelman]

I came upon a length of mohair which I am considering for a suit for next summer. It is made in England, 60% kid mohair and 40%.

I have never had a mohair suit, and I have the following questions:

1. What are the advantages of using 100% cashmere versus this blend? Was the wook added for strength?

2. How is the wear?

3. Would you place it on the same level of dressiness as a silk suit?

Thank you for your responses.

[RWS]

Dear Mark,

I use a ten- or eleven-ounce mohair for my evening clothes and am quite pleased with it. Kid mohair is less susceptible than mature to unexpected breaking or failure of the yarn (major criticisms of mohair), and mixing mohair with lamb's or other wool (your unspecified 40%, perhaps?) retards the tendency of mohair to take on a shine (another major criticism of mohair). In the favor of mohair are its lightness and airiness, while nevertheless affording warmth in winter while retaining some coolness in summer; its ability to hold a crease while draping nicely; and the richness of a carefully colored cloth.

As for dressiness or showiness: I do tend to regard mohair as being on the proper side of silk -- but, for daily wear, perhaps not by very much. Were I to have day cloths made of mohair, I might commission only an odd jacket or two. (However, Victorian and Edwardian men often had most of their clothing, evening or day, formal or informal, tailored of mohair.)

Yours,

Robb

[alden]

1. What are the advantages of using 100% cashmere versus this blend? Was the wook added for strength?

100% cashmere would be the direct contrary of a mohair blend and the usage is not at all the same. A pure cashmere suit would be very fragile, particularly with respect to trouser wear. It maybe that you intended on asking for a comparison of a 100% wool blend with a Mohair blend. The mohair will add a good deal of tensile strength to the wool that will be felt by increased rigidity like the kind one feels with a high twist fabric.
The "kid" mohair will be less rigid and less shiny than mohair. That is one reason why it is sought after. Kid mohair adds rigidity and strength with less shine.

2. How is the wear?

Mohair suits are the kinds your offspring will be glad to wear. They wear very well and are exceptionally good for travel like frescos are. They drape very well and do not wrinkle.

Would you place it on the same level of dressiness as a silk suit?

Interesting question. The Mohair blend is often used for formalwear as in Dinner jackets etc. The answer is "it depends." If you are talking about a plain blue suit, the Mohair will appear more formal than silk. If you are thinking about a pattern such as a stripe or check, it would appear less formal than a comparable pattern in silk.

For those who are fans, a Mohair suit is an Elegant wardrobe must. In the past, fabrics merchants like Dormeuil and Lesser offered heavyweight mohairs in patterns that were very beautiful. All of these exceptional fabrics have unfortunately vanished as the great English houses who produced them went out of business one by one. John Foster still produces some good mohair cloth, but most of their current stock is actually sourced in Italy and is an inferior product compared to the Mohairs of yesteryear.

A few years ago some bolts of aged Mohair was available at Rubinacci's in Naples. It was a mid grey with bordeaux chalk stripe. Unfortunately, yours truly arrived a few days late as the lot had been sold to a group from Japan. Helas! It was terribly good looking. The search goes on, but chances of finding the good old stuff is remote at best.

[RWS]

. . . . In the past houses like Dormeuil and Lesser offered heavyweight mohairs in patterns that were very beautiful. All of these exceptional fabrics have unfortunately vanished as the great English houses who produced them went out ot business one by one. . . .

May the Cloth Club commission some beautiful mohair cloth in days to come! I'd suggest sixty to eighty percent kid mohair, mixed with lambswool, in, say, a ten-ounce weight; and, for the first commission, a black cloth, ideal (with its extraordinary illusion of depth, the inky blackness of a starless night) for evening clothes. That will help Loungers to become the best-attired men on the planet!

[alden]

John Foster still produces excellent Mohair blends in black, and midnight blue of the kind you describe. These products are readily available from the various top drawer merchants: Lesser, Smiths, and Holland & Sherry for example.

What is missing are the classic patterns in Mohair. The Mohair in Naples had to be 400 gms or more. One length of the cloth was being made into an unlined three button suit. Well it was one of the most impressive fabrics and garments this writer has ever seen. It was nothing short of a Masterpiece.

A CC limited edition might be a heavyweight mohair (400 gms) in a mid to light grey with a large (4 x 3.5") sky blue windowpane check. Foster should be able to make it, if there are enough who would like to order. Let's hear your thoughts. It would be an immense pleasure to possess such a cloth.

M Alden

[richardcharles]

The weaver with probably the finest and most extensive range is William Hallstead of Bradford. The MD Peter Hallstead gets frustrated to no end that the rest of the world ( save for the far east where mohair is in great demand ) doesn't value this cloth the same way. I have some mohair trousers and resilient is the best way to describe them. They are great for travel and have a nice sheen to them. From a technical point of view Michael describes the fibers as having good tensile strength, this refers to the resistance to tearing when pulled or stretched. I also find mohair a graet fiber to blend with ie wool & mohair, silk & mohair and even linen & mohair.So little time so many beautiful fabrics.

[RWS]

. . . . What is missing are the classic patterns in heavyweight Mohair. The Mohair in Naples had to be 500 gms or more. One length of the cloth was being made into an unlined three button suit. Well it was one of the most impressive fabrics and garments this writer has ever seen. It was nothing short of a Masterpiece.

A CC limited edition might be a heavyweight mohair (400 gms) in a mid to light grey with a large (4 x 3.5") sky blue windowpane check. . . . It would be an immense pleasure to possess such a cloth. . . .

As must be obvious from my earlier post, I could easily become a devotee of mohair. The pattern you describe appeals to me, Michael, as might a miniature shepherd's check in blue and black, or any of myriad others. I'll spend part of my time away (and likely removed from the 'net save for business) thinking of extraordinary combinations of color and design just perfect for this splendid cloth.

[Mark Seitelman]

I would be game for the suggest mohair for next summer. If there is interest we should shoot for delivery by late winter/early spring.

[BirdofSydney]

I'm considering a Holland and Sherry wool/mohair blend, about 60/40 I think. It's a dark navy, but lighter than midnight blue. It feels like a good way to buy something with classic appeal, while staying chic. Navy worsted, at this point it my life, still feels too conservative and too "safe" for me.

I must agree with RWS, that mohair falls on the "right" side of silk for business purposes. Whereas silk may seem a little flashy, mohair will exhibit a subtle lustre. To the less sartorially minded onlooker, there will be a stylish je ne sais quoi (or, if I'm speaking in the third person, on ne sait quoi, I guess). People will not stare, but you may earn a double-take. If you're concerned about remaining suitably serious in your demeanor, consider a waistcoat or double-breasted jacket. On the other hand, go down my path, choose a bold one-button closing with a considerable drop, but pair with sober shirt, shoes and tie.

Even the wool blend is considerably more fragile than pure wool, my tailor tells me, so I'd advise a second trouser. My own reservation is that even with a single trouser, the price I've been quoted is significantly (about AUD$500) more than a comparable wool. Is this usual?

Kind regards,

Eden

[Concordia]

Thinking about something really dressy for evenings out in the warm months, and this dark blue mohair blend sounds interesting.

For those who have gone down this route, how comfortable does such fabric tend to be? Relative to pure wool, is it warmer (like silk) or cooler (like linen)? Or are there complicating factors?

[Guest]

Well, I have had a light grey mohair with sky blue windowpane in my list for ages!

I subscribe for that, as the navy is easily to be found in HS bunches.

[manton]

Mark, these days decent English kid mohair-wool blends from a US distributor are running about $175 to $200 per yard. However, Tip-top in Brooklyn has about a dozen for $40 per. I keep saying I am going to go out there, but I never do. If you want to go, let me know. If you want to check out swatches in midtown, Shattuck has their book.

[richardcharles]

I get a kick out of you guys in NYC. You would think brooklyn was in OH. Hold off until the first week in Aug. George is in Italy and will not be back until then. By the way he has a cashmere sport jacketing book from A very fine weaver in the UK that will be out shortly. I saw the samples and they are beautiful. We should visit him as a group.

[manton]

Don't blame anyone else for my lazyness. I almost went one Friday, but then I got called in to do something else. Blasted work.

[alden]

Richard and Manton

At $40 a yard we will have to send a few bolts back home to the UK.

Is it British Mohair or Italian? Weight? Patterns?

Cheers