In the current Chinatown of Milano, impervious to change, stands an old shop, like a last, proud defensive wall of old Milano. It is not just a shop, actually, but a real artisanal laboratory, hidden behind a two window shop area.
The Milanese enter the shop and driven by curiousity go up, through a stairway on the first floor to the second floor to discover an ancient world; hundreds of hats resting on the shelves, and a laboratory where Mr. Sergio is working on a new bespoke hat or restoring an older one.
The founder of this activity was Ferdinando Melegari, grandfather of the current owner and Master hatmaker: Luigi Anzani. Melegari was born in Parma, emigrated when very young to France, where he learnt the craft of hatmaking making bowler and top hats.
Back in Italy he married and had nine children; always around Italy to work, he stopped at Pisa for some time where he directed a hat company. His daughter Ada was born in 1891, she who decided to follow him in his trade. In 1914 he moved to Milano, where he opened shop and laboratory in the elegant Via Paolo Sarpi; the shop is still there.
At 23 years old Ada Melegari entered the shop, while the contact with the male customers was a little bit embarassing in those times; she then married Enrico Anzani, who enter the shop and learned the art of hatmaking himself. "When one is good, quick and smart, he steals the craft". From then on, the craft of hatmaking is transmitted to Luigi, born 1935, and then Sergio, born 1965.
"A felt cone is like a piece of clay, it is the artisan to give the shape". Indeed Master hatmakers Melegari are able to make a bespoke hat and completely custom as requested by customer, hand made.
The Shapes are all vintage, made from wood and they have all the vintage accessories to make a hat. "A felt hat is like a cat; has more lives; if well treated it will last long."
Restoring a hat will cost 25-30€. It's possible to send by mail. They sell and restore or hand customise Barbisio and Borsalino hats. They make also custom braces and UK accessories.
Giona.
Cappelleria Melegari, Milano
Fascinating, Giona. Thanks for an interesting and entertaining posting.
Our resident hat enthusiast, Matt Deckard, has pointed out that not only hatmaking but the fabric of hats has declined in the past few decades. Do you know anything of the felt that Melegari use for their material? Is it as thick and as dense as that in the "golden age" of the 1930s?
Our resident hat enthusiast, Matt Deckard, has pointed out that not only hatmaking but the fabric of hats has declined in the past few decades. Do you know anything of the felt that Melegari use for their material? Is it as thick and as dense as that in the "golden age" of the 1930s?
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The only place they do felt in Italy today is Barbisio; the rest is from china and poland. Melegari can have Barbisio felt.
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