A heavy Donegal

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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alden
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Fri Jan 30, 2009 8:52 pm

You have heard me speak often of heavy Donegals, well here is a broken twill Donny of 21 ozs.

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Like many treasures from a bygone era this bit of history was swept from a pile in the back of W. Bill in London.

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The obligatory shot of the back....

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For those of you who are terrified by the idea of buttoning the top two buttons on a three button front, here is how it is done. It doesn’t hurt and if the cold north wind is blowing, it keeps you warm.

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I hope we showed a bit of wintertime bella figura!

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Cheers

M Alden
Last edited by alden on Sat Jan 31, 2009 9:35 am, edited 3 times in total.
radicaldog
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Fri Jan 30, 2009 9:18 pm

Very impressive. Those who are sceptical about the drape cut need only see it in an application like this one (ie with heavy cloth) to change their mind.

Also, I would be tempted to say that the heavier the fabric, the lighter colour one is 'allowed' in winter.

As an aside, may I ask (i) whether the coat is lined (I guess it is, but I would love to try an unlined sportscoat in a fabric such as this Donegal), and (ii) what is the fabric of the tie? Is it a woolen cloth or a knit? Or a silk grenadine?
Nescio
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Fri Jan 30, 2009 9:28 pm

That's a gorgeous speckled jacket!
yachtie
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Fri Jan 30, 2009 9:36 pm

radicaldog wrote: Also, I would be tempted to say that the heavier the fabric, the lighter colour one is 'allowed' in winter.
"Winter whites". I wear these sometimes, in either a very heavy flannel or venetian (trousers). Completely appropriate.
radicaldog
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Fri Jan 30, 2009 9:45 pm

"Winter whites". I wear these sometimes, in either a very heavy flannel or venetian (trousers). Completely appropriate.
Certainly. I suppose my point was simply that heavy cloth allows for a wider palette in winter.
Cufflink79
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Fri Jan 30, 2009 9:55 pm

alden wrote:Image


You look very distinguished Mr. Alden.

I have to ask, is that a Bentley you're sanding next to?

Best Regards,

Cufflink79
alden
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Sat Jan 31, 2009 10:19 am

Very impressive. Those who are sceptical about the drape cut need only see it in an application like this one (ie with heavy cloth) to change their mind.
I suspect the photos of this drape coat have the anti-drape team grinding their teeth, though most of them have retreated to other forums where they can more easily ply their starching trade. Pictures such as these rarely make their way to those places. And the readership on those sites is a bit more naïve and inexperienced. :wink:

The coat is lined but wears like a Shetland jumper. There is a bit of handmade wading at the sleevehead to attach the sleeve and that’s about it as the internals are of featherweight materials.
As an aside, may I ask (i) whether the coat is lined (I guess it is, but I would love to try an unlined sportscoat in a fabric such as this Donegal), and (ii) what is the fabric of the tie? Is it a woolen cloth or a knit? Or a silk grenadine?
The tie is a classic silk knit variety in navy blue.
alden
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Sat Jan 31, 2009 10:31 am

I have to ask, is that a Bentley you're sanding next to?
Monsieur Cufflink

The auto is a Bentley, motor running, chauffeur waiting inside, parked in front of the Crillon. Too bad it is such a recent model. It would otherwise have been good form.

Cheers

M Alden
ottovbvs
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Mon Feb 02, 2009 6:44 pm

This looks very good but it also rather confirms my view that proper three button only really works well with very heavy fabrics in a classic cut.
alden
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Tue Feb 03, 2009 8:11 am

This looks very good but it also rather confirms my view that proper three button only really works well with very heavy fabrics in a classic cut.
A good observation and one that is particularly true with soft tailored garments. I don't think there is much that can outclass a good 3 button cut, but it has to be done in the right fabrics.

M Alden
JDelage
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Tue Feb 03, 2009 1:18 pm

This is a lovely coat. Would you mind posting a detailed pic of the fabric?

Thanks,

JD
ottovbvs
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Tue Feb 03, 2009 5:04 pm

alden wrote:
This looks very good but it also rather confirms my view that proper three button only really works well with very heavy fabrics in a classic cut.
A good observation and one that is particularly true with soft tailored garments. I don't think there is much that can outclass a good 3 button cut, but it has to be done in the right fabrics.

M Alden
The problem was when three button came back into general fashion about eight years ago most of the suits around which after all were off the peg were in lighter weight materials. I've been to a hundred conference cocktail parties and seen lots of people wearing them and they don't look anywhere near as good as they would in the same suit as a two button. Not that I've anything against good quality OTP, in fact I'm something of a fan of it, but the fact is most folks have little discernment when it comes to making choices no doubt with their better half on hand who saw some film star wearing it so it must be ok.
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