Two jackets in process for me in LL fabrics

[voxsartoria]

My tailor, Edwin DeBoise, is in the middle of making these two jackets up:









Most notable to many of you will be the patch out pockets and one piece backs.

We had a bit of length left over, and I am having two odd vests made up...here's one:




- B

[Cary Grant]

Nicely done Vox!

[alden]

Bill,

These are very handsome and well crafted pieces. My hat is doffed in direction of Cumbria and your East Coast. The one piece back is particularly helpful with large patterns and it will be a pleasure to see these coats when they are done.

I also chose 3pc with a 3b front patch pocket suit and if it ever stops raining, I will take a photo as well.

Cheers

Michael Alden

[Costi]

They all look excellent, congratulations!

[voxsartoria]

Thank you. I'm delighted with them so far, and look forward to wearing them.

As is the unspoken rule, they will be done just in time for storage until the fall!


- B

[DD MacDonald]

Vox, right you are on that last comment!

Love both jackets - you'll love the weight of the gun club on a cold day.

DDM

[Bishop of Briggs]

The more I see the gun club, the more envious I become.

[alden]

Bill

Here is a 20 ozs cashmere fitting in the same soft style.



Cheers

Michael Alden

[jb]

Vox,

The cloths are great and I am a great admirer of the one piece backs. I am seeing Chris Despos this morning and I will remind him to continue to shut out Boston...

Alden, I am very interested in that 20 oz cashmere cloth.

Cheers,
Joel

[Costi]

Bill

Here is a 20 ozs cashmere fitting in the same soft style.

Cheers

Michael Alden

Beautiful shape and proportions. The lines have tension, nothing is static: the subtle curve of the lapels, the progressive opening of the front quarters, the drape in the chest, the discreet waist suppression, the lines of the patches. This creates a sense of the coat being "alive", in symbiosis with the wearer, rather than an extraneous dead shell.

[marcelo]

... ia sense of the coat being "alive", in symbiosis with the wearer, rather than an extraneous dead shell.

Nicely put; I must write it down.

[voxsartoria]

Vox,

The cloths are great and I am a great admirer of the one piece backs. I am seeing Chris Despos this morning and I will remind him to continue to shut out Boston...

Alden, I am very interested in that 20 oz cashmere cloth.

Cheers,
Joel

Hah! Tell my good friend Chris that I might ply him with liquor and fatty foods if he changes his mind.

- B

[voxsartoria]

These two jackets above in LL cloth, as you might expect from Mr. DeBoise's preferred style of cutting, do not have sidebodies. Moreover, not only are the backs one piece, but there is no front cut or dart...only the undearm cut which is invisible when the arms are the sides. Given the paucity of seams, I think it is a testimony not only to him, but to his coatmaker Mr. Hardy that there is such good shaping to the jackets.

Here are two suits that I also have in the works with Steed right now...these follow the other type of cut that I am using. While they also lack sidebodies, they do have conventional seamed backs and both a front cut and the underarm cut:





I think you would agree that the tweed jackets give up only the barest degree of shaping.


- B

[angelo]

Vox ,
the cloths are superb. Shall the front quarters remain so closed and squared or will they in the final phase be opened and rounded? . If not I woulds suggest You , in order to obtain a softer and less structured effect , to do so.

Alden wrote:
Bill


Here is a 20 ozs cashmere fitting in the same soft style.

Cheers

Michael Alden

[/quote]

Michael ,
In my opinion the blue tie with white dots is the perfect match for Your beautufil light brown herringbone jacket, like any other tie in the same tone of blue .Was that combination casual as the tie was chosen for the coat You were wearing before the fitting?

Regards
Angelo

[voxsartoria]

Vox ,
the cloths are superb. Shall the front quarters remain so closed and squared or will they in the final phase be opened and rounded? . If not I woulds suggest You , in order to obtain a softer and less structured effect , to do so.

Regards
Angelo

Thank you, Angelo.

The quarters will be about so:



I hear what you say about more open quarters, but I think then it begins to look more Italian than English. I like that, too, but I prefer to keep that look to Italian makers.

- B