Picture request - DB Peak lapel, Velvet collar Overcoat

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

Simon
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Thu Jan 01, 2009 7:35 pm

I'm looking for a photo (and if possible, the correct name) of an overcoat - double breasted, peak lapel with a velvet collar, and ideally some waist suppression. Can anyone help? Thank you in advance...
marcelo
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Thu Jan 01, 2009 9:22 pm

Dear Simon

could it be the OC you are in search for? These pictures have been posted in another thread called "A Near All-Purpose Winter Topcoat":
http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/vie ... 7&start=15


Image


Image
Leon
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Fri Jan 02, 2009 12:04 am

The chap on the left is wearing such an overcoat

Image

Leon
marcelo
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Fri Jan 02, 2009 12:27 am

As for the correct name of the OC at issue here, is it a Polo? This coat seems not to have the velvet collar, but it matches the other features mentioned. There is an ongoing thead on Polo; do not fail to have a look on this thread:
http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/vie ... highlight=
Jordan Marc
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Fri Jan 02, 2009 4:16 am

Leon:

In your photo, the third figure on the right nearest the centre is the legendary T.E. Lawrence. Unlike Peter O'Toole, who stands 6 feet 3, Lawrence was a diminutive 5 feet 3.

JMB
Sator
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Fri Jan 02, 2009 2:27 pm

Image

This style of revers is referred to correctly as "double breasted" or "pointed". On jackets they may also be called "reefer collars". "Peaked lapel" is an Americanism.
angelo
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Fri Jan 02, 2009 3:53 pm

Simon,
this could be the DB overcoat with peaked lapels and velvet collar You were looking for..
It is a more citified version of the classical covertcoat as it does not have the stitching rows at the hem and at the sleeves.

The picture is a courtesy of www.asuitablewardrobe.blogspot.com and You can see it at the following URL address
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Wbd-uMYmb_4/S ... t+coat.JPG

Angelo
Simon
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Fri Jan 02, 2009 10:12 pm

Thank you all for the comments and photos - there are one or two that really hit the spot, especially the image Angelo posted. Thus far I'd been using this as my model, but removing the turn-back cuffs and potentially breast pocket;

Image

Having said all of that, the coat with Persian Lamb lapels is outstanding, even if it's perhaps a step too far for daily wear
marcelo
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Sun Jan 04, 2009 1:36 am

The overcoat with Astrakhan collar belonged to the Duke of Windsor, and was given to him by a friend in the 1930's. According to a catalogue by Sotheby's, the picture below shows him – as King Edward VIII – wearing the very same OC at the funeral procession of his father. Interestingly enough, he did not like this coat very much. In A Family Album, he explains:

“My grandfather, who liked to wear a coat with Astrakhan collar, might not have scorned this one of mine… I wear this one less often, because of its cut which suggests rather the fashions of an earlier age. For it hangs in pleats from the waist downwards, and reaches almost my ankles as low as those overcoats which London cabbies used to wear in my youth.”

Image

But something puzzles me: if the Duke is in the middle of the photograph, as I suppose he is, he seems not to be wearing the very same OC with Astrakhan collar, for the collar is only partially furred, differently from the collar depicted above. Any comments?
angelo
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Sun Jan 04, 2009 2:24 pm

The Duke's brother (first on the left) ,the future king George VI , has a very similar overcoat with a full Astrakhan collar.
However in this case the pockets are not slanted and the last line of buttons is higher than that of the Duke's OC
Marcelo ,thanks for the very interesting image,


Angelo
Tone Loki
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Tue Jan 06, 2009 6:29 pm

The astrakhan collar (or half collar) is definitely the way to go - I bought a length of it 53" by 13" recently with the express purpose of getting a coat made...

What I can't decide on is whether to go for camel hair, charcoal, midnight blue or black...
storeynicholas

Tue Jan 06, 2009 6:47 pm

Tone Loki wrote:The astrakhan collar (or half collar) is definitely the way to go - I bought a length of it 53" by 13" recently with the express purpose of getting a coat made...

What I can't decide on is whether to go for camel hair, charcoal, midnight blue or black...
You can also get it in brown and grey.
NJS
Tone Loki
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Tue Jan 06, 2009 7:10 pm

True - But I have a chocolate brown Ulster/Polo and a charcoal grey covert coat..

My natural instinct is to go for a DB camel hair with the shawl collar, but I am worried it will look a little too All Capone..
storeynicholas

Tue Jan 06, 2009 7:44 pm

Tone Loki wrote:True - But I have a chocolate brown Ulster/Polo and a charcoal grey covert coat..

My natural instinct is to go for a DB camel hair with the shawl collar, but I am worried it will look a little too All Capone..
I think that, if it is black fur, a black cloth would be best. Black trimmings on midnight blue or even navy blue suggest evening wear. On self-coloured camel hair it might indeed have a touch of Al Capone and, although this isn't Al Capone (it's script-writer Gene Markey with then wife, Hedy Lamarr - not sure of his fur, possibly musquash - but not astrakhan), maybe in 2009, this isn't the look to aim for -

Image

I've put my own version up before but I do think that it works - the pattern style came straight out of Thornton's pattern book as the cutter and I looked it up together -

Image
NJS[/img]
Tone Loki
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Wed Jan 07, 2009 12:28 pm

Marvellous! Black it is...

Nicholas - In your opinion, would black be a suitable colour for day and evening wear?
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