Jon Green Bespoke Suit 2

[mmkn2]

Charcoal grey.
Holland & Sherry Super 140s wool, cashmere, and silver mink.
Oh what a hand on this fabric!

Second basted fittinghttp://thelondonlounge.net/gl/index.php?topic=
Patience . . . getting it just enough


More room across the upper back


Armhole height assessment


My wife's favorite . . . perfectly fitted seat, from where clean lines fall and drape


Side view


The impressive part of my experience is the incorporation of lessons learned from the last suit to this suit - a steep learning curve.

Jon comes closer and closer to my request for well fitting, clean lines, and relaxed clothes.

- M

[soupcon]

Two things:

Both upper sleeves look too snug and need more room.They are both pulling.He should have caught that.

It wouldn't hurt to shorten the pant length so you get just the barest of break.

[mmkn2]

Two things:

Yes, a suit always look so tattered, like a scarecrow, in the basted phase.

The two points you mentioned were noted at the fitting. Thank you.

Jon will do as many basted phase fitting as he deems necessary to get the cloth in the right trajectory. I don't like to rush the artist. Once the trajectory is set, then the focusing of the picture begins, and quite a precise resolution the picture eventually becomes!

Jon's uniqueness to me is his ability to grasp who his clients are and translate that into a very individualized suit based on a solid bespoke construction foundation. My own choices with Jon has been guided by his sense of me as a precise minimalist . . . right on.

- M

[Costi]

It wouldn't hurt to shorten the pant length so you get just the barest of break.

Agreed.
Now that I see the side picture of these trousers I think that, while I like the fact that the legs are full around the thigh and taper toward the hem, they seem a bit too narrow below the knee and around the ankle. Personally I would like just a bit more width at the hem and a more progressive tapering from the knee down. But the concept is exactly what I want in my own trousers.

[radicaldog]

The back of the coat looks very promising!

[mmkn2]

they seem a bit too narrow below the knee and around the ankle. Personally I would like just a bit more width at the hem and a more progressive tapering from the knee down.

Costi,

The trousers shown are made for the suit, while the other thread is about separate odd trousers and shorts patterns.

I have no preference for the tapered trousers shown over the less tapered version you described. That said, the overall aesthetic of the trousers with the jacket and wearer's body habitus should be harmonious.

- M

[alden]

Personally I would like just a bit more width at the hem and a more progressive tapering from the knee down. But the concept is exactly what I want in my own trousers.

M, nice progress on the trouser, but Costi has a very good eye. The trouser starts to look pretty good and about 2/3 of the way down the line dies. But the solution is not at the hem its in the fullness up top. The trousers, to my eye, are too neat at the waist, hips, thigh so the line has no where to go by the time we reach the knee, calf, and hem.

This can be seen in the picture from behind. The trouser is too tight, close fitting and actually fails to drape.



The result we see further down. The taut line we see in the upper section of the trouser, from the side view, should continue all the way down to the cuff and the only way to get there is to widen the top to facilitate the taper. The end result will be a bit more width at the cuff, but being in balance with the rest of the line, we will hardly notice it.

Cheers

Michael Alden

[mmkn2]

The trouser starts to look pretty good and about 2/3 of the way down the line dies. But the solution is not at the hem its in the fullness up top. The trousers, to my eye, are too neat at the waist, hips, thigh so the line has no where to go by the time we reach the knee, calf, and hem. The taut line we see in the upper section of the trouser should continue all the way down to the cuff and the only way to get there is to widen the top to facilitate the taper. The end result will be a bit more width at the cuff, but being in balance with the rest of the line, we will hardly notice it.

Cheers

Michael Alden

Thanks for your thoughts Michael. I see what you are saying.

I guess I should describe how I think this suit is different from the last (linen) one. While being fitted I felt everything was shaved as closely as possible to my body. Thus, the assessments made for this suit were more of letting out than taking in.

With the linen suit, it was more taking in than letting out.

There's also the consideration of matching the trousers' aesthetic and fit to the jacket. My odd trousers from Jon feel less closely shaven.

- M

[Costi]

If the coat is going to be tight and the trousers were meant to be narrow and straight, then you already have a style conflict between coat and trousers, since their line aspires to the full cut. Therefore, our suggestions were not aimed at changing the style of the trousers, but at improving the cut while maintaining the style you and your tailor chose.
Minimalism and clean lines, which I appreciate in terms of styling, do not necessarily imply closeness to the body.
I appreciate the admiration you have for your tailor, but try not to absolutize him: that would blind you, much the way love makes you blind to shortcomings of the beloved that are noticeable to any objective eye. All advice here is given in good faith and with good intentions – an objective outside eye is often a useful reference point.
Once again, thank you for posting pictures and commenting on the making of your suits. Please continue to do so (I would very much like to see pictures of these suits finished) and take full advantage of this two-way communication: from your side pictures and the story, from the other side questions, opinions and advice.

[mmkn2]

. . . not aimed at changing the style of the trousers, but at improving the cut while maintaining the style you and your tailor chose.

Minimalism and clean lines, which I appreciate in terms of styling,

I would very much like to see pictures of these suits finished.

Costi,

Your improving the cut while maintaining the style inputs are very much appreciated . . . and mulled.

I've only begun to appreciate the difference between what you refer to as "the (ideal, timeless) cut" and that which you refer to as "the (idiosyncratic, minimalism) style" in my own conceptions of bespoke clothing.

I will certainly continue to post my progressive bespoke clothing experiences . . . with permission.

- M

[mmkn2]

Freshly delivered, test driving this thing of beauty . . .



- M

[old henry]

The finished product looks very sharp. Very nice. The shoulders and sleeve heads are strong.

[Jordan Marc]

mmkn2:

The blade of your tie is much too long in the final photo. The blade should just graze the top of the waistband of your trousers, and the tail should be an inch or two shorter and kept in place with a self-fabric keeper. Ask Jon Green if a seamstress would be willing to alter the tie, for a fee, of course.

Old men are famous for wearing ties much too long. Whether it's because they just don't give a damn anymore, it's anyone's guess. Suffice to say this is not something a younger man should affect.

JMB

[mmkn2]

The finished product looks very sharp. Very nice. The shoulders and sleeve heads are strong.

Thank you, Mr. Shattuck. The fabric is very fine; difficult to tailor well.

mmkn2:
The blade of your tie is much too long in the final photo. The blade should just graze the top of the waistband of your trousers, and the tail should be an inch or two shorter and kept in place with a self-fabric keeper. Ask Jon Green if a seamstress would be willing to alter the tie, for a fee, of course.

Old men are famous for wearing ties much too long. Whether it's because they just don't give a damn
anymore or to compensate for a penis in disuse, it's anyone's guess. Suffice to say this is not something a younger man should affect.

JMB

I am in my fourties, does that make me old? Probably middle age.

- M

[Jordan Marc]

No, M. The forties don't make you middle-aged. You may notice the color of your hair changing or receding, which has more to do with heredity than wicked fun living. It's the fifties that bring you face-to-face with middle age. Not a bad thing with which to contend, if you're reasonable. This is when you notice that you and your woman seem to be wearing the same six outfits in your respective wardrobes.
No one has figured out the significance of the same six, though I suspect it has a lot to do with settling in. Horrible term, isn't it? What happened to being adventuresome? She will ask why your suits are always blue and grey during the week and that checked Wales thing when shopping at the farmer's market during the weekend. You will ask why her outfits are always black tops with black trousers.
Where are the racy skirts and five-inch heels that made her legs go on forever? Now its two-inch heels
and flip-flops when loading up at Zabar's. Tiz a mystery, this thing we call life.

JMB