Bespoke and Teba-like

[alden]

Gents

This is what happens when you read the LL, you get ideas for new bespoke projects.

I think I am going to have to source some grayish green jersey cloth (a la Teba) in Spain and have this coat made unlined.



This site is much too dangerous.

Cheers

M Alden

[carl browne]

Michael:

What kind of construction--padding, interlining, etc. should it have?

Is there anything special we should know about a coat made from jersey material?

C

[couch]

In the 1935 Vanity Fair issue linked in another thread, this Jersey coat by Anderson and Sheppard was described as currently popular. The stitched "pleats" (darts?) in the back waist and other construction techniques were said to give shape without droopiness. Would the action-back blade pleats in the AA model work well in jersey? Either version of the project is intriguing, but I have to say the idea of a tailored jacket in a knit may just be too uncomfortably reminiscent of the polyester double-knit suits of the '70s for me to overcome my ingrained prejudice. I look forward to seeing a successful example as a therapeutic aid.



"The man on the opposite page wearing a cap is seen arriving at Croydon in a knitted jersey jacket. This jacket is especially designed for cruising and wam weather. It weighs practically nothing, takes up very little room when packed, and does not easily become wrinkled. Cut along very easy lines across the shoulders, it has a very smart effect due to the practically invisible pleats across the waistline at the back, which draw the jacket in, thus doing away with the loose, baggy hand usually found in clothes made from this type of fabric. Anderson and Sheppard designed this popular jacket."

[RWS]

Enthusiasms of an earlier age that fail of sustenance usually disappear for good reasons. To my sensibilities, a jersey-knit jacket is one of those enthusiasms; but I'm willing to be dissuaded.

[carl browne]

I am very interested! I was thinking of ordering a Teba, but Mr. Alden convinced me that it would be perhaps too much of a "novelty" item. I am still intrigued by the idea of an unconstructed jacket in a wool/cashmere jersey material. Bel y cia was good enough to send me some samples of their Teba jersey cloth, and it's wonderful! It has a soft hand, but seems very sturdy. I don't think it likely to crease. This is totally unlike the 1970's vintage polyester double-knit! For one thing, it feels like cashmere. For another, there's none of that horrifying polyesterish sheen that we remember, and which makes us shudder. This cloth should also be incredibly comfortable. I imagine wearing for air travel.

While the Teba may be a little too much of a regional item (I congratulate myself in resisting the trachten jacket that looked so right on the locals in Munich), The jacket described above may be wonderful!

[alden]

samples of their Teba jersey cloth, and it's wonderful! It has a soft hand, but seems very sturdy. I don't think it likely to crease. This is totally unlike the 1970's vintage polyester double-knit!

Yes, the cloth used in Spain is like a softer version of Loden cloth. The grey green color they use is especially nice and not found in a true Austrian loden cloth, though I am going to look for one.

Resisting regional sartorial temptations while a tourist is probably the subject of an article. Side stepping trachtenmmode, Tebas, ornate Neapolitan wear and other traps is a very good idea. Know what you can wear at home, what suits your own environment.

Cheers

M Alden

[carl browne]

How about jersey trousers also?