Suit Jackets With Odd Trousers

[Sator]

This is a sample of the cloth in concern:



I thought the scale of the pattern was already quite appealing but I was wanting to make the scale smaller so it is a little closer to that worn by the Prince of Sagan. I think a smaller checks looks dressier, and appear darker coloured, more like a grey from a distance. I am willing to listen to all suggestions.


The price would be around 20 GBP/m of SINGLE (90cm) width cloth ie most people will need around 3m of cloth for a pair of trousers. I will have to have 24m of the stuff woven as a minimum order. The cloth will be woven on two ply yarn and finished to try to make it as smooth and dressy as possible. I have looked at samples of other weaves but I think a Shetland looks the dressiest and most suited to city wear.

Actually, on closer inspection, I'm not so sure that the Prince of Sagan is wearing a Shepherd's check. I think this one is more of like a Shepherd's check:



There were lots of different designs worn as dress trousering in the past. I would dearly love to recreate some of them:

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/vie ... php?t=6526

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum

[RWS]

This is a sample of the cloth in concern:

Hmm . . . not quite what I had in mind. I'll see if I can get my own idea posted (though, as my technological competence is retrocessive, I doubt it).

. . . . I'm not so sure that the Prince of Sagan is wearing a Shepherd's check. . . .

I think you're right.

[carl browne]

Sator:

You are proof that this concept can work very, very well. That is one amazing rig!

I have a new plan:

You pick out everything for me!!

[carl browne]

Deep Scyes:

That has been my concern also.

But I think Sator just put it to rest.

QED

C

[carl browne]

Sator:

Let's take for example the 20 oz. herringbone suit you displayed earlier. Do you feel you could properly wear that jacket with odd trousers? And if not, why?

Your example of the dark jacket and striped trousers, I think, brings an already formal look (charcoal suit) to an even higher level of formality (morning dress, I think). I live in Southern California, where you set yourself apart just by wearing long trousers (sigh).

Can you give me an example of a fairly formal look (a suit) moving to a level of greater informality with odd trousers?

This is probably something you never do. I deduce that your clothing budget is somewhat higher than mine, and you would never have the inclination. But I've grown to respect your opinion, so is this something you feel you could do?

[storeynicholas]

Do I not spot a blemish at North by Northwest? It's a bit bold for me but I can see the appeal.
NJS

[Costi]

Carl, until Sator has a chance to ellaborate his answer, let me offer you one of the most obvious instances of the kind for which you asked: take the SB coat of a navy suit and mix it with grey flannel trousers, blue or white (button down collar) shirt, a striped tie (or even an ascot) and a pair of brown calf derbies.

[carl browne]

Costi.

I'm in full agreement, thank you.

How about the suit cloth? Should it be hard and worsted, or softer and a little more nappy?

I have sitting on my desk a sample of Holland & Sherry 9 oz camdeboo summer kid mohair that I was considering, but I think you admonished me against mohair; this stuff is awfully light and I wonder about shiny-trouser syndrome. I'm holding off.

My climate dicates that cloths be cool, and my budget dictates that they be durable. Heavier cloths are not a problem as long as they wear cool.

Patch pockets would look well with flannels, but would they be hopelessly wrong on a suit?

Costi, thank you. Rest assured that I intend to contribute to this blog, and not just solicit advice from you gentlemen. For example. I am an expert on sunglasses and Hawaiian shirts. You have only to ask. . . .

[carl browne]

Sator:

Forgive me for the flurry of messages, but I must note for the record that your vest is exactly the same color as your button-hole, or at lease seems that way in the photo.

[Sator]

I am somehow less comfortable with the idea of wearing a lounge suit coat as a sports coat. I guess I could wear my grey herringbone coat as a sports coat, but it just doesn't sit right with me. Admittedly, I might consider it while I am travelling for versatility. I know others feel differently - including some who quite deliberately choose cloths that could pass as either jacketing or suiting.

With dark grey lounge coats, there I do deliberately order only one pair of trousers just so I can use other dress trousers as spare trousers, thereby extending the life of the coat. But using the same coat as a sports coat somehow makes me feel like I am abusing it, when I should really be getting a separate sports coat for the purpose, to help rest my lounge suit coats.

It is probably just me.

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum

[Costi]

Carl, questions are the sparks that keep the engine running here, so you cannot really say you are not contributing as long as you generate discussion.
Mohair is a great summer cloth. It has a looser, permeable weave and is a bit stiff, which is of help when the cloth is lightweight (although 9 oz sounds a bit too light). It has an inherrent lustre which may not look too bad with light, summery, day colours, but I don't know about navy blue... At any rate, I see it more as suiting than jacketing (I may be biased in that). Soft and nappy cloths tend to wear warm, as they trap air and don't allow good ventilation.
Perhaps the best cloths that could work well both as a suit and blazer (reefer jacket, in respect for correct taxonomy) are gabardine and fresco. With fresco you can go up with the weight while the loose weave will keep you well ventilated. Gabardine is the most durable of the two, but it is a tight weave which may shield you from the heat if you, like Sator, don't run naturally warm.
Patch pockets are not wrong on a non-business suit, but I wouldn't have them on a navy suit.

[lordofpi]

Actually, on closer inspection, I'm not so sure that the Prince of Sagan is wearing a Shepherd's check. I think this one is more of like a Shepherd's check:

Yes, I should say he is not, though this may fall under the broader guidelines that the term implies. I would say he is wearing white(-ish) trousers with a black square pattern on them.

Anyhow, I am still feeling my way around the Cloth Club, but you can count me in for however much would be required for a 6-foot tall man with a 44 (US) waist.