A Near All-Purpose Winter Topcoat

[storeynicholas]

Arising out of Sator's excellent recent posts: what are members' views on the configuration of a near all-purpose, modern, winter topcoat - for town, country, day, evening, formal and informal? I, sadly, exclude the tropical Sleepy Hollows; from one of which, I report, the weather remains really too agreeable to wear much at all.
NJS

[NCW]

It should have a zip-out lining, and different panels to add and remove more and less formal options. For example, to change our coat from a country topcoat, we zip off the sleeves, and put on the Inverness' wings. Then zip off the middle, and put the formal body in! I thus propose that this single coat can perform any function.

[pbc]

The difficulty, I am discovering in a thread in the Anonymous Questions section, is the formal category. It necessitates a stricter code that seems to segregate it from other categories, which is the intent, from what I understand. To "make it work" for the most possible classes of clothes necessitates the "bending" of some of the "rules." Wool would likely be the material of choice.

Several options already have a fairly wide reach as far as city/town daywear is concerned - Polo, covert, mackintosh (a raincoat, actually)

That being said, my limited knowledge leads me to speculate on the following that would have the greatest versatility:

Chesterfield - Charcoal or Navy. Black is too formal. This can fit (with some loosening of interpretations) from formal to business, both day and evening in town. Country might be a stretch, but charcoal grey may be serviceable. Herringbone, depending on pattern size, can help. The 1902 dressing chart indicates that the chesterfield is appropriate for both white tie and informal lounge suit day wear.

Great Coat (military origin) - Somehow able to span classes well, from what I've read and seen. Again, grey seems to be the best color option. Formal to business, perhaps nice casual (blazer with grey pants). Herringbone might help with the more casual categories.

To work in the country as well as the city, grey seems the best option for color. Herringbone can help, giving a "tweedy" look for the country and a "fancy" look for city and formal.

pbc

[NCW]

Less tongue-in-cheek than my last comment, I agree that we had roughly decided on a navy or (preferable for evening) midnight blue coat, if Chesterfield single breasted and fly-front, otherwise a double breasted guard's coat style.

[Costi]

NJS - if I were ever to limit my greatcoats wardrobe to one and only one item, perhaps it would be a most versatile DB polo with patch pockets in a light camel colour: perfect in the country (which is the most difficult trick with a "universal" overcoat) and quite wearable in town as "rus in urbe" for a relaxed look. Perhaps this is why it doesn't exist (yet) in my wardrobe: I am afraid I would stop wearing everything else

[Concordia]

NJS - if I were ever to limit my greatcoats wardrobe to one and only one item, perhaps it would be a most versatile DB polo with patch pockets in a light camel colour: perfect in the country (which is the most difficult trick with a "universal" overcoat) and quite wearable in town as "rus in urbe" for a relaxed look. Perhaps this is why it doesn't exist (yet) in my wardrobe: I am afraid I would stop wearing everything else

That might be next up for me-- not necessarily with patch pockets, and not necessarily camel hair. Perhaps covert twill: there was an example in one of Etutee's AA series. Flap pockets, maybe an outside ticket pocket and turn-back cuffs.

[storeynicholas]

NJS - if I were ever to limit my greatcoats wardrobe to one and only one item, perhaps it would be a most versatile DB polo with patch pockets in a light camel colour: perfect in the country (which is the most difficult trick with a "universal" overcoat) and quite wearable in town as "rus in urbe" for a relaxed look. Perhaps this is why it doesn't exist (yet) in my wardrobe: I am afraid I would stop wearing everything else

That might be next up for me-- not necessarily with patch pockets, and not necessarily camel hair. Perhaps covert twill: there was an example in one of Etutee's AA series. Flap pockets, maybe an outside ticket pocket and turn-back cuffs.

I like this. I might opt for a snuff-coloured cloth - maybe even a Harris tweed - also, from the asphalt surface and the general pace at which they are walking; the brown suede shoes, grey suit and multi-purpose topcoat, might we imagine that they are travelling? Incidentally, someone recently brought to light the PoW in a less than great suit - he certainly redeems it here. I also think that I see cuffs on this one.
NJS

[Frog in Suit]

The man on the right is wearing a covert coat (which is another type of overcoat which I think -- but what do I know ? -- goes pretty much anywhere these days) and an interesting hat. I do not think I have ever seen anything like it: Can anyone comment?

Frog in Suit

[Concordia]

The man on the right is wearing a covert coat (which is another type of overcoat which I think -- but what do I know ? -- goes pretty much anywhere these days) and an interesting hat. I do not think I have ever seen anything like it: Can anyone comment?

Frog in Suit

A classic "covert coat" would have several layers of stitching on the sleeves as well as the bottom hem. His looks more like a garden-variety SB in a twill. Which would be very useful in a slighly darker shade of grey,

[RWS]

NJS - if I were ever to limit my greatcoats wardrobe to one and only one item, perhaps it would be a most versatile DB polo with patch pockets in a light camel colour . . . .

I had a nearly identical (perhaps a little longer) coat made a few years ago. It's beautiful, but I seldom wear it -- despite having anticipated quite otherwise. Why? Perhaps because it is so versatile: there's a bit of a comforting thrill in dressing differently on different occasions.

[Concordia]

I'd almost forgotten because it's taken so long even to get to the first fitting. My own "all-purpose" coat attempt is a raglan sleeve model like Alden's, executed in a 14oz Thornproof grey tweed with mid-blue overcheck. I'm hoping it will go with suits in all but the nastiest cold weather, and be light enough to roll up into the overhead compartment. It should do fine with sweaters and weekend wear, in any case.

[Costi]

NJS - if I were ever to limit my greatcoats wardrobe to one and only one item, perhaps it would be a most versatile DB polo with patch pockets in a light camel colour . . . .

I had a nearly identical (perhaps a little longer) coat made a few years ago. It's beautiful, but I seldom wear it -- despite having anticipated quite otherwise. Why? Perhaps because it is so versatile: there's a bit of a comforting thrill in dressing differently on different occasions.

Exactly, RWS. That's probably why I don't have it. But I admit it is so tempting that, whenever I will stumble upon a great cloth that says "buy me and make me into a polo overcoat", I may give in.
I think its all-purpose character proves most useful when travelling for a few days or more and you anticipate various kinds of places and activities: the fact that you are not at home, with your complete (?) wardrobe at hand, is the perfect excuse to take it anywhere. And it WILL go very well everywhere if the rest of your wardrobe is adequate.
I agree it doesn't necessarily have to be in camel hair (although a smoothly finished cloth doesn't look right to me), but I would keep the colour - that's part of what makes it so versatile. Again, in my opinion the problem with an all-purpose overcoat is not making it work in town, that's easy with rus in urbe and all that, but making it work in the country, too. If you make it in town colours, you defeat the purpose. In my view the flapped patch pockets (and half belt) are essential to the look, otherwise it's a DB city coat.

[Costi]

Less tongue-in-cheek than my last comment, I agree that we had roughly decided on a navy or (preferable for evening) midnight blue coat, if Chesterfield single breasted and fly-front, otherwise a double breasted guard's coat style.

NCW, that's right as far as town wear is concerned, as per pbc's original query - but these overcoats can't go to the country, lest they should look handed down from a wealthier uncle who lives in a city and has probably outgrown them

[kolecho]

Speaking of an all-purpose winter coat, I have one in the works with Raglan sleeve in covert cloth. It will also have a removable warm lining.

Should I go with zip or buttons for the removable warm lining? Appreciate some suggestions. Thanks.

[Costi]

To add to the confusion, you could also use studs