What makes a great blazer ensemble?

[Jordan Marc]

Whatever would we do without blazers? It's a mainstay of a man's wardrobe throughout life, but how many do we actually need? M'thinks six blue coats should do it: three double-breasted, such as a luxurious
cashmere, a plain woollen flannel with a soft hand, and a basket-weave wool hopsacking; and three single-breasted, such as a soft angora wool with a subtle herringbone pattern, a plain camelhair, and a textured pure silk for warm weather occasions.

Each blazer needs its own distinctive set of buttons to really shine, and the more thought given to your choice the better. Whatever the motif, great sets are a rarity and cost big buckelinos. Look for them at estate sales, auctions and antique dealers, though what you see in a shop or a stall at an outdoor market is seldom a genuine antique (100 years or older) or truly vintage (30 to 99 years old). Reputable dealers are few and far between these days. But it's the hunt that's fun!

The trousers with which you companion a blazer have been discussed in some detail elsewhere on the lounge. Flannels, cavalry twills and linens
seem to be the perennial favorites; and why not, they all complement a blue coat. But little mention has been given to waistcoats. Where are the doeskin flannel vests and the tattersall checks? Where are the lovely cablestitch V-neck cashmere pullovers and Fair Isles?

How about the members of the LL, including some of the tailors, adding their imput to a discussion about blazers, buttons and everything else that is part and parcel of making a great blue coat ensemble? And if you have snaps, share 'em.

JMB

[NCW]

I'm not quite convinced I would go so far as to describe a blazer as the 'mainstay' of my wardrobe, but my one is just a basic wool twill with college buttons, perfect for any boating occasion.

Surely the buttons on the blazer should either be plain, or mean something relevant to you, so how do you manage six different sets? I can see one with your device, one with college buttons, one with college boat club buttons (the white trimmed one), a tennis blazer with club buttons, etc., but I am starting to run out of ideas here. Six just seems an awful lot for a slightly niche odd jacket.

Your question about waistcoats is interesting. I have never seen anyone wearing one with a blazer, so have you, or is this hypothetical? I agree though that V-neck jumpers are staple for any country situation in summer.

[Sator]

I have three reefer jackets (blazers are brightly coloured striped sports coats) and I hardly wear them at all. They are only suitable as smart casual wear, totally inappropriate as work wear (in the same category as polo shirts) and not smart enough for evenings out. I know some people wear them everywhere, like a uniform - unfortunately. So they fall into no man's land. I am beginning to consider getting rid of them.

The best place to wear them would be at the yacht club. But I am no yachtsman.

[Bishop of Briggs]

I also have three blazers - a DB barathea, a medium weight SB and a lightweight SB. All have plain brass buttons but that's my personal taste.

I partner blazers with light grey flannels or worsted trousers, cavalry twills, corduroys, or chinos. I may wear a plain waistcoat in colder weather. The shirt is generally a plain white (with striped or patterned tie) for business casual or checked shirt (with plain knitted tie) at the weekend. To complete the outfit, I tend to wear semi-brogue shoes and a Barbour Beaufort.

A blazer is perfect for shopping in St James's, drinking and dining at my club or golf club, attending a classical concert (e.g. Wigmore Hall) and travelling on business. In the country, I will opt for a sport coat with corduroys or moleskins and full brogues.

Sadly, I tend to look over-dressed when out and about where I live. The norm is denim jeans, t-shirts and trainers. I opt for a button-down poplin shirt, chinos, boat shoes and a Harrington jacket in the autumn and spring.

[Jordan Marc]

NCW:

Whether a blazer is double- or single-breasted, the addition of a smart waistcoat allows the wearer to bring touches of color, pattern and texture to the ensemble. It's a chance to show some style. The cut of an odd vest--whether crooked or straight, with lapels or without, the button stance, the arrangement and type of pockets--should follow the dictates of your tailor. Of course wearing a waistcoat properly requires high rise trousers and braces. Consider plains, such as cream- or buff-colored doeskin flannel, which has a certain elegance about it. Tattersalls are wonderful for daywear. Silks brocaded with flora or fauna is a bit too fancy for a blazer, but it's a knockout under a velvet smoking jacket. If knits are more to your liking, take a look at Fred Astaire in Daddy Long Legs. He wears a yellow cardigan with a blue blazer, grey flannels and brown suede lace-ups that is the epitome of elegant nonchalance. By the way, you can order handsome knits at Henry Poole in every color imaginable.

Perhaps the best reason for wearing a waistcoat is that it permits you to unbutton your blazer when seated or take it off altogether, without ever exposing your braces. Did I forget to mention it keeps you warm? On to buttons.

There are two reference books on buttons that should be in everyone's sartorial library: THE BIG BOOK OF BUTTONS by Elizabeth Hughes and Marion Lester; and BUTTONS by Diana Epstein and Millicent Safro. One or both may be out of print, but they're well worth going the route of secondhand booksellers to find. There are more buttons in heaven and earth, NCW, than you ever imagined. Go and explore.

A final thought. Though blazers are often thought of as casual coats connected with sporting events and university, I would not want to be without a collection of them for business, afterhours dinners, and play day or night. Such is the flexibility of working in the world of art and design. For me, blazers are a must!

JMB

[uppercase]

Manton had what I thought was a good formula: but I can't remember the details as usual; but I think it was to own 3 blazers; one each in a linen, cashmere, and a serge (or fresco). I think.

[NCW]

I am certainly not disapproving of the idea of waistcoats in general with sports jackets, but they just seem in my mind not quite 'active' enough a garment to go with such a nautical jacket, though I suppose it could be done if you were not at Cowes or Henley etc.

Perhaps the best reason for wearing a waistcoat is that it permits you to unbutton your blazer when seated or take it off altogether, without ever exposing your braces. Did I forget to mention it keeps you warm?

Again, I might turn to a jumper to fulfill this function, even in winter (remember — a jumper is really a cool summer alternative to a waistcoat, and not just a winter garment).

There are two reference books on buttons that should be in everyone's sartorial library: THE BIG BOOK OF BUTTONS by Elizabeth Hughes and Marion Lester; and BUTTONS by Diana Epstein and Millicent Safro. One or both may be out of print, but they're well worth going the route of secondhand booksellers to find. There are more buttons in heaven and earth, NCW, than you ever imagined. Go and explore.

I suppose I am a little dubious about the need for brass buttons with 'random' designs, in the same way I would be if I had any 'random' ties in a wardrobe of only half a dozen, ie. if you only had six ties, you would have to pick your school and college ties, club ties, etc. and you have no more room left. Similarly, even if you get four or five blazers, you would still surely give preference to designs with meaning (like my college buttons).

A final thought. Though blazers are often thought of as casual coats connected with sporting events and university, I would not want to be without a collection of them for business, afterhours dinners, and play day or night.

I really cannot conceive of wearing a blazer for business (I assume you are only thinking of the blue, untrimmed sort with metal buttons, of which I could not imagine needing more than two).

I suspect that we may be approaching the garment from a rather different cultural perspective.

[Jordan Marc]

NCW:

Indeed, we are approaching the subject of blazers from diametrically opposed perspectives; but a difference of opinion makes for a lively discussion, don't you think?

Buttons are the jewellery of blazers. Regardless of the particular design, they can make or break a blue coat. At their best, they're marvellous miniature works of art. And functional, too. Never underestimate the importance of seemingly small details when dressing. Everything
matters.

JMB

[Bishop of Briggs]

Blazer buttons were given, as souvenirs, to men who attended President Reagan's Inauguration. A friend has a set but declined my offer to relieve him of the burden of storing them in his drawer. If anyone has a spare set, I will put them to good use.

[Gruto]

I have three reefer jackets (blazers are brightly coloured striped sports coats) and I hardly wear them at all. They are only suitable as smart casual wear, totally inappropriate as work wear (in the same category as polo shirts) and not smart enough for evenings out. I know some people wear them everywhere, like a uniform - unfortunately. So they fall into no man's land. I am beginning to consider getting rid of them.

The best place to wear them would be at the yacht club. But I am no yachtsman.

Sator, it might not be appropriate according to 19th century standards, but today a blazer/reefer jacket is perfect wear for a night out. I believe that goes for Australia too?

[Frog in Suit]

If I may add my two small units of change (USD, GBP, €...):

I think of a blazer as an approximate equivalent to a tweed coat, but for warmer weather.

It is not for business, but will be of use in all sorts of context: from formal (dark grey trousers, good shirt, cufflinks, tie, pocket square, panama) to less formal (open neck shirt, brightly coloured cords or pale khaki twill trousers, no pocket square). I would wear a DB in the first instance, a DB or a SB in the second (I associate the latter with summer in the United States).

Frog in Suit
PS: I use the term "formal" loosely, "Dressy" may be more precise.

[RWS]

For what it matters, I'm with Frog, save that I will wear a heavy cashmere-flannel blazer in colder weather. In the States, in certain circles for certain gatherings, a navy blazer seems nearly to be de rigueur.

[Frog in Suit]

For what it matters, I'm with Frog, save that I will wear a heavy cashmere-flannel blazer in colder weather. In the States, in certain circles for certain gatherings, a navy blazer seems nearly to be de rigueur.

RWS,

Thank you for your support . I was on the coast of Maine and in Boston during part of the summer and I find that wearing a SB navy blazer with khaki cotton pants. with a button-down shirt and a tie, makes me better dressed than 80 % of the male population, even in nice venues.

Frog in Suit

[RWS]

. . . . on the coast of Maine and in Boston during . . . summer [,] . . . wearing a SB navy blazer with khaki cotton pants. with a button-down shirt and a tie, makes [one] . . . better dressed than 80 % of the male population, even in nice venues. . . .

Regrettably true nowadays. Since the last major economic depression, in the 1930s, men (and women) who still dress well in private have come to consider dressing well in public increasingly risky -- as the world's economies continue to implode, they may think it riskier still!

In the better clubs and in private gatherings, in and around Boston and along the coast of Maine (and throughout the seaboard states from Maine to Virginia, at least), a SB blazer, khakies (or lightweight flannels), and tie are pretty much standard if not minimum in daytime; nicer suits and my well-loved tweeds are not uncommon. In the evening or at sports, of course, other conventions apply.

[storeynicholas]

. . . . on the coast of Maine and in Boston during . . . summer [,] . . . wearing a SB navy blazer with khaki cotton pants. with a button-down shirt and a tie, makes [one] . . . better dressed than 80 % of the male population, even in nice venues. . . .

Regrettably true nowadays. Since the last major economic depression, in the 1930s, men (and women) who still dress well in private have come to consider dressing well in public increasingly risky -- as the world's economies continue to implode, they may think it riskier still!

In the better clubs and in private gatherings, in and around Boston and along the coast of Maine (and throughout the seaboard states from Maine to Virginia, at least), a SB blazer, khakies (or lightweight flannels), and tie are pretty much standard if not minimum in daytime; nicer suits and my well-loved tweeds are not uncommon. In the evening or at sports, of course, other conventions apply.

RWS - Still, it sounds as though in that enclave you have a plank in a shipwreck!
NJS