Sartorial "quirks"

[Frog in Suit]

Hopefully you will indulge us with photographs when complete once again?

Why out of curiosity do you have flaps ion your back pockets?

D

I have two reasons:
One, because the pockets look unfinished without them, especially since my jacket pockets all have flaps, two, to make life more of a challenge for pickpockets .

Frog in Suit

[Costi]

I never have back pockets on my trousers. Besides the fact that the trousers' line looks cleaner and smoother - what can you comfortably keep in those pockets that is not a nuisance when you sit?

[Frog in Suit]

I never have back pockets on my trousers. Besides the fact that the trousers' line looks cleaner and smoother - what can you comfortably keep in those pockets that is not a nuisance when you sit?

....folding money when travelling and carrying cash (Euros on one side, £ Sterling on the other...), credit card receipts, to do lists, passport and ticket between the time I have deposited my bag on the X-ray machine and the time I pick it up at the other end. Since that part of the trousers is hidden from view by the skirt of the coat, I do not understand how can it affect the line of the trousers. The flaps, which are not that thick anyway, sit atop the, ahem, fleshy parts of one's anatomy, above (Do I make myself clear?) the point where the line of the pants begins. Am I wrong?

Being naturally disorganized, I need a lot of pockets .

Frog in Suit

[DFR]

I agree with FiS they are quite easily used and not uncomfortable at all. A thin wallet and and a handkerchief are fine.

I think much depends upon your cutter how he cuts the trousers makes a huge difference on their position and keeping them deep enough without being too deep is critical. I have found and now insists upon pockets 6" deep. I will differ with FiS on flaps, I think that they make the trousers look fussy and prefer double (not single) jetted with button and hole on each.

I recall when I occasionally used to buy M and S trousers that the back pocket(s - criticism of many M and S is that they only have one) in those were very much deeper and prone to being uncomfortable

I never have back pockets on my trousers. Besides the fact that the trousers' line looks cleaner and smoother - what can you comfortably keep in those pockets that is not a nuisance when you sit?

....folding money when travelling and carrying cash (Euros on one side, £ Sterling on the other...), credit card receipts, to do lists, passport and ticket between the time I have deposited my bag on the X-ray machine and the time I pick it up at the other end. Since that part of the trousers is hidden from view by the skirt of the coat, I do not understand how can it affect the line of the trousers. The flaps, which are not that thick anyway, sit atop the, ahem, fleshy parts of one's anatomy, above (Do I make myself clear?) the point where the line of the pants begins. Am I wrong?

Being naturally disorganized, I need a lot of pockets .

Frog in Suit

[storeynicholas]

My Good Lady has a Mary Poppins bag and so the only thing that I put in any pocket these days is a handkerchief.
NJS

[Costi]

I didn't mean back pockets ruined the back crease (of course their mouth is placed above the point where the crease begins), but that they interrupted what is otherwise a whole span of cloth from the waist to the bottom hem. Personal preference, of course. For me the two hip pockets are quite enough for all carrying needs. I use the coat inner pockets for everything else. I don't like to feel anything struggle for room when I sit. Moreover, with beltless and braceless trousers the less storage room I have in my trousers the less they will weigh down. I tend to edit the content of my pockets often, so perhaps I also have less need for extra pockets...

[DFR]

And should be allowed pout without your Good Lady....?

My Good Lady has a Mary Poppins bag and so the only thing that I put in any pocket these days is a handkerchief.
NJS

[storeynicholas]

And should be allowed pout without your Good Lady....?

My Good Lady has a Mary Poppins bag and so the only thing that I put in any pocket these days is a handkerchief.
NJS

If I wear a suit here it means that we are going to Rio. Apart from that, I don't wear a suit here so the question doesn't arise. When we return on a trip to London, I suppose that I shall have to carry a few things (keys, cash etc) but I shall keep it to a minimum.
NJS

[toad]

Gentlemen: perhaps you can save me from myself, as I am about to commission a new tweed odd jacket.

Is there an accepted rule of thumb concerning slash pockets? Are they a slim man's game only, or will they help disguise a heavier man's girth?

I ask as a heavier man.

Also, are half belted backs a bit too much? I don't want to end up with a hybrid shooting/hacking jacket, when what I really desire is a classic jacket with a bit of flair.

Thank you all,
Toad

[Sator]

A fellow with a stouter figure can wear hacking pockets well as it avoids creating horizontal lines that accentuate width. Hacking pockets belong on hacking jackets. These are made of sporting fabrics eg tweeds, SB with a single vent.

However, belts and pleats on the back are a problem for the stout of waist. Belted backs create horizontal lines that accentuate width. The pleats tend to bulge a bit on movement making the wearer look like the expanding Michelin man swelling out of an accordion like coat. Likewise with slash pockets.

A well cut matching SB waistcoat can help greatly in reducing any impression of waist girth.

[Costi]

Dear Toad,

Follow Sator's sage advice and leave the jacket clean and simple. No jacket in the world can make you look thinner, but some can make you look larger. Slash pockets and an action back are sure to draw attention to themselves and invite the eye to stay on the jacket more than on its wearer. Especially if you want to wear the jacket in town during weekends, this hybrid character, as you wrote yourself, is not desirable. Go for a simple 3B roll below 3rd button design with side vents and straight flapped pockets. Flair should come from the way you wear it - your choice of shirt, tie or pocket square!

[Sator]

However, I must confess to having a soft spot for sports coats such as Norfolk jackets with action pleats. Then again I am fairly slender, so things that widen me out are flattering. I like sports coats to be clearly sporty rather than like a city lounge without trousers. It helps to mark them out as weekend leisure wear to prevent you looking overdressed just because you are wearing a tailored garment casually.

One day I hope to have something like this made up:

[Costi]

Very handsome, Sator! This looks like a good solution to better integrate the front outer pockets on Michael Alden's weekend coat, if we build them inside those pleats. Hmm... I think I have just the right piece of cloth in my closet. With a few changes I guess I could give it a try.

[toad]

Gentlemen: I came to be educated, have been taught by masters and will do as instructed. Thank you, I have learned much.

[Costi]

Dear Toad,

Master Sator gave you some good advice indeed and I look forward to seeing pictures of your tweed jacket, as well as to your further participation in the London Lounge.