An Anglo-American Dictionary of Sartorial Terms

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

RWS
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Mon Sep 08, 2008 9:28 pm

It looks as though "gaiters" in British English = "gaiters" in American English. I've a pair from Scouting days, long, long ago.

Really, there's scant linguistic difference in the language as spoken articulately on either side of the North Atlantic.
storeynicholas

Mon Sep 08, 2008 9:34 pm

Gruto wrote:Black jacket = Stroller, cf. http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/vie ... c&start=15
I know what you mean by 'black jacket' and 'stroller' - it curious that American English has a specific name for this and British English does not.
NJS
storeynicholas

Mon Sep 08, 2008 9:50 pm

NCW wrote:Gaiters are seen almost universally in the Lakes (except for those with breeches and high lanolin stockings...). They are still all the rage, and in Scotland (on t' Ben) in winter you now see people wearing boots with built-in gaiters like this (with the lacing under the zip). They are basically just like long, durable spats (or rather were the precursor to spats, which originally served the same purpose). I have a pair in old waxed canvas and in stretch GoreTex (vastly superior).

I also suggest one more addition:

informal ß formal
There are variants on gaiters too. Below, first are leather greaves on James Buchanan (of Buchanan scotch fame and puttees on Gordon Lagden:

Image

[/img]Image
Both Spy cartoons.
NJS
storeynicholas

Mon Sep 08, 2008 9:52 pm

RWS wrote:It looks as though "gaiters" in British English = "gaiters" in American English. I've a pair from Scouting days, long, long ago.

Really, there's scant linguistic difference in the language as spoken articulately on either side of the North Atlantic.
I know. It's the South Atlantic that worries me.
NJS
Sator
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Mon Sep 08, 2008 11:42 pm

Gruto wrote:Black jacket = Stroller, cf. http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/vie ... c&start=15
Yes, this is a difficult one. After some discussion on AAAC it became clear that there is no British English term for the American "stroller". It is just called "morning dress".

Conversely there is no American equivalent of the British use of the term "balmoral" or "galosh Oxford".
storeynicholas

Tue Sep 09, 2008 12:41 am

Sator wrote:
Gruto wrote:Black jacket = Stroller, cf. http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/vie ... c&start=15
Yes, this is a difficult one. After some discussion on AAAC it became clear that there is no British English term for the American "stroller". It is just called "morning dress".

Conversely there is no American equivalent of the British use of the term "balmoral" or "galosh Oxford".
The American-British'stroller' is, im British English, normally called just 'black jacket and striped trousers' - it is an abbreviated form of morning dress, which professionals used to wear. 'Balmoral' I take to be an oxford style of ankle boot but 'galosh oxford' I'm not sure about unless it is a plain toe cap shoe (cut like a pump) with an affixed buttoning galosh top.
NJS
Sator
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Tue Sep 09, 2008 12:59 am

A balmoral in British English is a type of Oxford with a long seam extending around the upper part like this:

Image

John Lobb St James calls all of such shoes/boots a "galosh Oxford". They even call button boots galosh Oxfords:

http://www.johnlobbltd.co.uk/catalogue/ ... onboot.htm

That is because they have that balmoral seam.

In American English "balmoral" is used to describe any shoe with closed lacing.
Sator
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Tue Sep 09, 2008 1:01 am

storeynicholas wrote:
The American-British'stroller' is, im British English, normally called just 'black jacket and striped trousers' - it is an abbreviated form of morning dress, which professionals used to wear.
Used to? Why I dress that way all the time :)
garu
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Tue Sep 09, 2008 1:22 am

NJS, I don't suppose we should venture into the area of "a big girl's blouse," should we... Certainly, that befits no member here.

As for the Scarpa boots with the built-in gaiters, they really are too warm for serious climbing, unless one is climbing Cerro Torre. For Scotland, a pair of good leather boots and separate gaiters is quite enough. Of course, if one wishes to lounge around looking like a climber, they may be just the ticket.

Cheers!

garu
storeynicholas

Tue Sep 09, 2008 2:16 am

Sator wrote:A balmoral in British English is a type of Oxford with a long seam extending around the upper part like this:

Image

John Lobb St James calls all of such shoes/boots a "galosh Oxford". They even call button boots galosh Oxfords:

http://www.johnlobbltd.co.uk/catalogue/ ... onboot.htm

That is because they have that balmoral seam.

In American English "balmoral" is used to describe any shoe with closed lacing.
This raises the interesting possibility that you could end up wearing a 'balmoral oxford', which might raise, in turn, no end of possibilities for geographical disorientation. But is the term denoting the lacing or the seam or the closing of the lacing; because I foresee familial discussions, ending in dissent.
I know about the Lobb galosh oxfords (buttoning version) - because, to the astonishment of many, I have a pair from them. As for the 'balmoral' seam, I didn't know its universally held technical name, until this very moment - and I am, evidently, learning all the time. The laced example, which you show, demonstrates an interesting modern interpretation - and I am glad to learn about it too. Returning, for a moment, to your original post; you mention that the American equivalent of the simple derby is the Blucher - although, in British English, the derby is just a plain 'V' fronted shoe and the Blucher remains a half boot; named after Field-Marshal von Blucher, Prince of Wahlstatt (1742-1819); currently still in vogue as a cowboy boot. I begin to question RWS's avowal to the cause that the two dialects are that similar. A good example of a Blucher (apologies to FiS for having failed to master accents) is this:

Image
- on what many own to be a fair representation of George Bryan Brummell, the hero of us all.
NJS[/img]
storeynicholas

Tue Sep 09, 2008 2:34 am

garu wrote:NJS, I don't suppose we should venture into the area of "a big girl's blouse," should we... Certainly, that befits no member here.

As for the Scarpa boots with the built-in gaiters, they really are too warm for serious climbing, unless one is climbing Cerro Torre. For Scotland, a pair of good leather boots and separate gaiters is quite enough. Of course, if one wishes to lounge around looking like a climber, they may be just the ticket.

Cheers!

garu
I have removed my original reply, because I feel sure that it resulted from a misunderstanding of the post and my reply was, probably, to quote the good Frog in Suit,
just rude!
NJS
Last edited by storeynicholas on Tue Sep 09, 2008 9:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Sator
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Tue Sep 09, 2008 3:02 am

storeynicholas wrote:
in British English, the derby is just a plain 'V' fronted shoe and the Blucher remains a half boot; named after Field-Marshal von Blucher, Prince of Wahlstatt (1742-1819); currently still in vogue as a cowboy boot. A good example of a Blucher is this:

Image
Actually, those are Hessian boots, and until the Wellington became popular, were the standard dress boot of the day.

Bluchers appear to originally have been some sort of laced boot, but I have never managed to find out what Field Marshal Blücher's original boots looked like. I have always wondered if they were like this:

Image
storeynicholas

Tue Sep 09, 2008 9:43 am

Sator - You are absolutely right, Brummell's are Hessians and, if I could only read my own notes, I would not have made this mistake. However, my error provides a perfect example, described some way above, of 'a load of pants'. The closest I ever got to finding out what Blucher boots were is that they were 'half boots' - but whether that was from the length or the inclusion of laces, who knows! Indeed, Hessians look as though they were half boots (at least in length).
NJS
Azdak
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Tue Sep 09, 2008 9:58 am

I believe the 'stroller' get-up can still be seen in daily use by Scottish advocates at Parliament House in Edinburgh where it is referred to as "blacks". It tends to be worn by those appearing in court that day since, in robing up for court, the lower half is retained and, rather curiously, the top half is exchanged for what is effectively the top half of white tie (this applies to junior counsel; there are a few variations for silks) prior to the donning of wig and gown. On account of another tradition, the advocate wearing blacks will most likely be seen literally 'strolling' up and down the length of Parliament Hall in conference with his client (as it is very difficult to eavesdrop on a conversation held in such manner).

I have seen the stroller on crustier members of the English bar, though it is much less common. Were I still in independent practice then, in a spirit of retrocentricity, I would have been sorely tempted to try it.

Azdak
storeynicholas

Tue Sep 09, 2008 12:44 pm

Azdak wrote:I believe the 'stroller' get-up can still be seen in daily use by Scottish advocates at Parliament House in Edinburgh where it is referred to as "blacks". It tends to be worn by those appearing in court that day since, in robing up for court, the lower half is retained and, rather curiously, the top half is exchanged for what is effectively the top half of white tie (this applies to junior counsel; there are a few variations for silks) prior to the donning of wig and gown. On account of another tradition, the advocate wearing blacks will most likely be seen literally 'strolling' up and down the length of Parliament Hall in conference with his client (as it is very difficult to eavesdrop on a conversation held in such manner).

I have seen the stroller on crustier members of the English bar, though it is much less common. Were I still in independent practice then, in a spirit of retrocentricity, I would have been sorely tempted to try it.

Azdak
My impression, from visits to Edinburg and Aberdeen is that the Scots in Scotland are still more formal, in manners and dress, than the English.
NJS
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